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WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
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reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
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L'Sr«,;tut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu   '     li  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibiiographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


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Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


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Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  ?rd/or  laminated/ 
verture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6c 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

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II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout6es 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'oi.t 
pas  6t6  film^es. 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 

n 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  documen*^  est  film6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

M 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


lire 

d(§tails 
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:  modifier 
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The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

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possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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g6n6rosit6  da: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  imaqes  suivantes  ont  6x6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


/ 
j6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  und  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
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sion, and  ending  on  the  lasi:  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originatx  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaire''^ 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  comnien9art  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'imprrjssion  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symt   ^e  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


ire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  utc,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  fllmd  d  partir 
de  i'angle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  Is  mdthode. 


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■^a^         ,i.!3!S^-i^ 


OUR   VACATIONS: 

m 

WHERE  TO   aO, 

HOW  TO  ao, 

AND  HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 
By  FRANIL  E.  CLARK. 


■^?i 


BOSTON : 
ESTES    AND    LAURIAT, 

1^3   WasIII.NUTON   STRUliC. 


I 


i   I 


\:i 


Entered,  according  to  Art  ot  Congn.,.,  i„  Uic  ye«r  ISTl, 

llv  ESTES  AND  LAtiniAT, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librmrian  of  ConKroM,  at  Wuhington. 


\      ^ 


o\^ 


c 


StercotypeU  at  tlic  Boston  Stereotype  Foundry, 
J'J  Sprhif;  JUttUc. 


TO  MY  CLASSMATES, 


T.  E.  C,  S.  IV.  A.,  AND  L.  //.  R., 

WITH  WHOM  I  HAVE   SPENT  SOME  OF  THE  PLEASANTEST 
OF   VACATION   WEEKS, 

(Kfeis  3?ittlt  Volume  is  Instrihb 

BY  ONE  OF  THE  "QUARTETTE." 


PuR    J 


ACATIONS 


HOW  TO    ENJOY   THEM. 


OUR  VACATIONS, 


AND 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


CHAPTER  I. 

If  the  reader  were  entitled  to  know  the  whole 
truth,  we  should  confess  to  a  few  conscientious 
qualms  for  not  consigning  this  opening  chapter 
to  that  sepulchre  for  an  author's  good  wishes, 
trembling  hopes,  and  unnecessary  explanations, 
called  an  introduction  or  preface. 

For,  indulgent  reader  (this  phrase  is  introduced 
on  information,  before  commencing  our  book, 
that  this  was  the  proper  way  to  address  you),  in- 
stead of  getting  a  sniff  of  the  sea  in  the  very  first 
page,  or  diving  into  the  heart  of  the  Adirondacks 
with   the   opening  sentence,  we   rre  obliged  to 

9 


nn 


lO 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


place  before  you  a  very  few  introductory  pages 
of  explanation,  which  arc  not  labelled  "  introduc- 
tion "  for  the  very  good  reason  that  we  wish  to 
have  thcni  read  —  a  piei'e  of  good  fortune  which 
is  supposed  to  fall  to  the  lot  of  but  few  prefaces. 

But  if  these  first  pages  were  not  read,  we 
should  have  visions  of  many  scornful  noses  turned 
up  at  this  little  book,  and,  in  imagination,  hear 
many  sarcastic  remarks,  such  as,  "  Walk  to  the 
White  Mountains  indeed  !  A  pretty  way  of  trav- 
elling this  man  recommends  !  To  Canada  for  fifty 
dollars !  Ridiculous  I  He  must  mea'i  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  doilars."  Yet  we  do  lot  mean  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  for,  leave  oft'  the  first 
three  words,  ;  nd  with  that  sum  in  your  pockets 
you  can  start  from  Boston  and  see  all  the  sights  of 
the  Canadas  in  a  two  weeks'  vacation  trip.  More- 
over, we  will  tell  you  how  the  White  Hills,  the 
Mecca  of  wearied,  city-worn  pilgrims,  may  be 
reached,  and  a  delightful  vacation  of  three  weeks 
spent  among  them  for  fifteen  dollars  ;  and  for  as 
many  dollars  as  it  takes  to  spend  a  single  day  at 
a  first  class  sca-.siiic   hotel,  we  will  tell  you  how 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


II 


Uictory  pages 
cd  "  introcUic- 
t  wc  wish  to 
fortune  which 
'ew  prefaces. 
not  read,  we 
1  noses  turned 
ijination,  hear 
Walk  to  the 
y  way  of  trav- 
^nada  for  fifty 
ea'i  one  hun- 
rot  mean  one 
;;  oft'  the  first 
your  pocliets 
I  the  sights  of 
>n  trip.  More- 
lite  Hills,  the 
ims,  may  be 
f  three  weeks 
3 ;  and  for  as 
single  day  at 
tell  you  how 


you  can  live  a  week  at  the  sca-shorc  in  a  far  more 
enjoyable  way. 

So,  friend  of  the  plethoric  purse,  we  would 
advise  you  to  read  no  farther,  unless,  indeed, 
Newport,  and  Saratoga,  and  Long  Branch  have 
become  utterly  wearisome,  and  you  have  a  notion 
of  trying  a  poor  man's  vacation  just  as  you  would 
take  a  glass  of  soda  "  plain  "  after  having  "  made 
a  night  of  it." 

But  this  little  book  is  written  for  the  great  mid 
die  class,  to  which  so  many  of  us  must  necessarily 
belong  —  for  the  city  clerk  who  gets  his  ten,  fif- 
teen, or  twenty  dollars  a  week,  who  looks  with 
longing  eyes  from  the  hot,  red  bricks  to  the  cool, 
green  country,  but  who  yet  always  sees  an  in- 
separable connection  between  the  green  fields  and 
forests  and  greenbacks ;  for  the  country  min- 
ister who  longs  to  get  away  from  his  little  parish 
into  fresh  scenes,  where  the  croakings  of  brother 
A  and  the  complaints  of  widow  B  will  fail  to 
reach  him  ;  for  the  doctor  who  has  had  plenty 
of  patience,  but  very  few  patients  ;  for  the  brief- 
less barrister;    in  short,  for   any  one  in  whose 


slender  salary  the  bills  cf  the  butcher,  and  baker, 
and  candlestick-maker  leave  such  a  narrow  mar- 
gin at  the  end  of  the  year,  that  he  finds  the  doors 
of  our  fashionable  watering-places  barred  against 
him  as  really  as  though  they  were  the  very  gates 
to  the  garden  of  Eden.  In  other  respects  than 
extreme  exclusivencss,  w?  imagine  that  the 
modern  hotel  resemblto  the  ancient  Paradise 
but  little.  The  fig  leaf  has  certainly  been  very 
much  expanded  since  the  days  of  Mothc  Eve, 
and  Pather  Adam's  cuisine  difl'ered  considerably 
from  the  table  dlwtc  of  a  fashionable  watering- 
place  hotel.  Indeed,  we  flatter  ourselves  that  in 
visiting  the  mountains  and  sea-shore,  as  we  are 
about  to  relate,  we  come  much  nearer  to  the 
customs  of  Paradise  than  do  those  who  pay 
five  dollars  per  day  for  the  privilege  of  exist- 
ing at  the  Crawford  House  or  Congress  Hall. 
However  this  may  be,  the  reader  may  be  as- 
sured that  these  vacation  trips  have  actually 
been  made  by  the  writer  in  the  way  and  for 
the  sum  mentioned,  and  can  be  taken  again 
by  a  thousand  others. 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


i3 


ind  baker, 
rrow  mar- 
5  the  doors 
ed  against 
ver}'  gates 
pects  than 

that    the 
t   Paradise 

been  very 
othc  Eve, 
>nsidcrably 
;  water ing- 
ves  that  in 
,  as  we  are 
irer   to  the 

who  pay 
e  of  exist- 
2;ress  Hall, 
nay  be  as- 
'e  actually 
ly  and  for 
iken   again 


Especial  pains  have  been  taken  that  the  state- 
ments of  expenses,  and  the  description  of  routes, 
outfits,  &c.,  should  be  accurate  and  trustworthy  ; 
and  our  hope  is,  that  many  work-worn  souls, 
who  otherwise  could  not  take  a  summer  vaca- 
tion, by  following  the  example  of  Tom,  Dick, 
and  Sam,  may  gain  inspiration  from  a  few 
weeks  spent  among  the  hills  or  upon  the  sea- 
shore, that  will  carry  them  more  happily  through 
another  twelvemonth  of  cave  and   toil. 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


CHAPTER   II. 

TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS    FOR    FIFTEEN 
DOLLARS. 

Now,  don't  mentally  consign  lis  to  an  insane 
asylum,  kind  reader,  when  \n\\  glance  at  the 
above  caption,  and  score  off  on  your  fingers  — 
"  Railroad  fare  twenty  dollars,  hotel  bills  forty 
dollars,  carriage  hire  fifteen  dollars,  sundries 
twenty  dollars;"  for  on  our  trip  to  the  moun- 
tains we  mean  to  have  no  railroad  fares,  or 
hotel  bills,  or  carriage  hire  to  jjay. 

"  How  shall  we  go,  then .-' "  do  you  inquire. 

Wh}',  by  the  turnpike,  and  on  our  own  good 
legs,  to  be  sure ;  for  what  other  purpose,  pray, 
were  legs  and  turnpikes  made? 

One  would  think,  from  the  antipathy  which 
some     people    show   to    using   their    locomotive 


I 


HO  IV   TO  ENJOY  THEAf. 


'5 


powers,  that  they  were  only  meant  for  the  tailor 
to  exercise  liis  skill  upon,  and  that  highways 
were  intentled  solely  for  quadrupeds. 

Well,  having  made  sure  that  the  means  of  get- 
ting to  the  mountains  are  both  inexpensive  and 
always  at  our  command,  the  next  thing  we  want 
to  secure  is,  a  party  of  five  or  six  good  fellows, 
just  like  ourselves  —  Tom,  who  is  "such  a  good 
hand  at  a  story  ;  "  and  Dick,  who  is  so  good  na- 
tured  ;  and  Sam,  who  is  one  of  thr  best  hearted 
fellows  in  the  world ;  and  Hiram  and  Jack  — 
you  know  whom  I  mean ;  —  but  the  grumbler 
and  fault-finder  must  certainly  be  left  out  of  our 
party. 

Nothing  would  go  right  if  he  were  with  us. 
The  coffee  would  always  be  muddy,  the  roads 
would  be  sure  to  be  "  confoundedly  dusty,"  and 
the  villages  "  wretched  little  hamlets."  Mount 
Washington  would  surely  be  enveloped  in  a 
cloud  when  he  made  the  ascent,  and  the  "  Old 
Man  of  the  Mountain"  would  scowl  more 
fiercely  than  ever  when  he  gazed  at  him.  Yes, 
our  grumbling  friend  must  be  left  at  home,  by 
all  means. 


I 


u 


16 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Should  any  of  our  Indy  friends  read  this  book, 
let  them  not  feel  excluded  from  our  paity  if  they 
have  a  desire  for  the  muscle  and  happiness  of  the 
clifl-climber. 

Let  it  be  understood,  too,  that,  wherever  in 
these  pages  the  masculine  pronoun  occurs  in 
reference  to  the  travellers,  the  feminine  is  in- 
eluded,  as  in  law  the  word  man  means  woman 
also.  For  this  vacation  trio  is  quite  as  practi- 
cable for  a  lady  of  reasonably  strong  constitution 
as  for  the  Tom,  Dick,  Sam,  and  Hiram  before 
alluded  to. 

Indeed,  we  have  before  us  now  an  account 
of  such  a  trip  to  the  mountains,  taken  by  a 
party  of  young  ladies  from  Portland,  at  less  ex- 
pense than  the  jaunt  we  are  about  to  describe ; 
and  a  most  delightful  expedition  it  was,  if  we  may 
judge  from  their  account  of  "  How  we  did  it." 

To  be  sure,  a  party  which  is  partially  made  up 
of  ladies  may  not  be  able  to  make  quite  as  long 
daily  marches  as  one  in  which  the  fair  sex  is 
wholly  wanting  ;  but  this  difficulty  can  easily  be 
remedied  by  spending  more  days  upon  the  road. 


H 


this  book, 
uty  if  they 
ness  of  the 

herever  in 
occurs  in 
line  is  in- 
ms  woman 
:  as  practi- 
constitiition 
ram  before 

an  account 
taken  by  a 
at  less  ex- 
to  describe ; 
s,  if  we  may 
•e  did  it." 
lly  made  up 
uite  as  long 
!  fair  sex  is 
an  easily  be 
an  the  road, 


which,  perhaps,  would  be  fully  as  agreeable  to 
all  parties  as  a  more  hurried  journey. 

Now  that  the  party  is  made  up,  the  next  thing 
will  be  our  outfit. 

And  first  we  must  get  a  horse  and  wagon. 
Our  steed  need  not  be  a  Bucephalus,  by  any 
means.  A  strong,  trustworthy  animal,  who 
knows  a  piece  of  white  paper  from  a  ghost,  and 
can  pick  up  his  dinner  from  the  road-side  with- 
out whinnying  for  oats  or  corn  meal  for  des- 
ert, is  more  serviceable  to  us  among  the  New 
Hampshire  hills,  than  a  Dexter  or  a  Longfellow 
would  be. 

Such  a  horse  we  can  easiJy  hire  for  a  dollar  a 
day,  while  the  wagon  body  he  is  to  draw  ought 
not  to  cost  us  more  than  five  dollars  for  the  trip. 
This  wagcn  is  to  carry  our  tent,  provisions,  and 
blankets ;  and  for  this  purpose  an  ordinary  ex- 
press wagon,  covered  with  a  canvas  top,  well 
painted  to  keep  out  the  rain,  answers  as  well  as 
anything. 

It  is  very  amusing  to  see  what  mistakes  this 
nondescript  vehicle  of  ours  will  give  rise  to  when 

2 


msi 


i8 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


we  get  into  the  backwoods  settlements.  From 
one  house  a  woman  will  rush  in  post  haste,  and 
cry  out  at  the  top  of  her  lungs,  that  she  wants 
two  pounds  of  beefsteak.  We  politely  explain 
that  we  do  not  run  a  meat  cart,  and  drive  on  a 
mile  farther,  to  the  next  farm-house.  From  this 
we  see  a  small  boy  emeige,  waving  violently  a 
red  flag.  This  is  evidently  meant  to  attract  our 
attention,  but  whether  to  give  us  notice  of  an 
auction  or  a  case  of  small-pox  within,  we  are  at 
a  loss  to  determine,  until  we  discover  that  we  are 
mistaken  for  th*^  baker,  as  the  boy  bawls  cut, 
"  Ma  wants  a  brick  loaf  of  bread."  At  the  next 
little  collection  of  .houses,  half  a  score  of  chil- 
dren will  gather  around  us,  with  eager  inquiries 
as  to  where  the  next  show  will  be,  evidently  mis- 
taking us  for  the  advanced  guard  of  some 
"  world-renowned  circus."  Thus  on  all  the 
roads  among  the  mountains,  which  are  a  little 
off  the  regular  routes  of  pleasure  travel,  our 
strange  team  will  be  almost  as  rare  a  sight  as  a 
new  comet,  and  will  aftcrd  a  fruitful  topic  of 
conversation  for  days  after  we  have  passed. 


HOIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


Its.      From 

t  haste,  and 

she  wants 

L'ly  explain 

drive  on  a 

From  this 

violently  a 

attract  our 

otice  of  an 

I,  we  are  at 

that  we  are 

bawls  cut, 

At  the  next 

ore  of  chil- 

;er  inquiries 

idently  mis- 

d   of    some 

on   all   the 

are  a  little 

travel,   our 

a  sight  as  a 

ul  topic  of 

asscd. 


But  to  return  to  our  outfit. 

The  first  thing  to  go  into  the  wagon  will  be 
an  A  tent,  large  enough  to  hold  our  party. 
For  this  R.  M.  Yale,  or  any  dealer  in  tents,  will 
probably  charge  us  at  least  three  dollars  per 
week ;  but  if  we  happen  to  know  of  some  friend 
or  charitably  disposed  person  who  has  an  unused 
tent  on  hand,  we  can  get  it,  very  likely,  for  a 
third  of  that  sum.  Such  an  exorbitant  rent  is 
asked  for  these  canvas  houses,  that  a  few  weeks 
of  camp  life  would  cover  their  first  cost,  so  that 
it  would  be  cheaper,  in  most  cases,  to  buy  the 
tent  outright,  and  sell  it  again  at  the  end  of  the 
trip.  But  there  is  generally*  little  need  of  pay- 
ing this  price. 

The  tree  poles  of  the  tent  should  ride  on  the 
bottom  of  the  wagon,  with  the  canvas  over  them  ; 
and  though  they  will  stick  out  behind  in  a  rather 
awkward  manner,  they  will  be  found  convenient 
to  hang  our  lantern  and  tin  pails  upon,  if  the 
wagon  is  very  full.  Then  in  the  front  part  of  the 
wagon  will  come  the  barrel  of  hardtack  —  Pilot 
A  if  our  teeth  are  strong  and  our  digestion  good. 


20 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


I 


thoiifjh  a  softer  and  richer  variety  can  be  had  at 
a  liij^her  price,  slioiiUl  \vc  desire  it. 

We  .shall  find  that  one  barrel  of  pilot  bread  will 
just  about  last  a  party  of  half  a  dozen  for  three 
weeks.  Next  will  come  one  keg  of  pickles,  an 
indispensable  article  if  any  of  the  gentler  sex  are 
to  accompany  lis,  and  in  any  case  a  great  addi- 
tion to  the  ham  and  hard  tack,  which  often,  when 
encamped  away  from  villages  and  farm-houses, 
we  shall  be  obliged  to  make  the  staple  of  our 
nieais. 

Beside  the  pickle  keg  will  fit  in  nicely  a  box 
of  hams,  coflee,  sugar,  condensed  milk,  corn 
meal,  salt  pork,  cheese,  salt,  and  pepper.  These 
are  all  the  varieties  of  provisions  that  it  is  really 
necessary  to  take  on  an  expedition  of  any  length  ; 
and  if  one  or  two  of  these  articles,  even,  were 
leit  behind,  it  would  be  no  serious  loss.  Of 
course  it  is  expected  diat  much  of  our  food  will 
be  bought  on  the  way  ;  but  of  such  staple  articles 
as  cofiee,  si.gr.r,  and  pilot  bread,  it  is  both 
cheaper  and  more  convenient  to  keep  a  supply 
on  hand. 


I/O  IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


\  be  had  at 

)t  l>iciul  will 
!n  for  three 
pickles,  an 
itler  sex  are 
great  addi- 
often,  when 
irin-houses, 
aple  of  our 

licely  a  box 
milk,  corn 
jcr.  These 
t  it  is  really 
;iny  length  ; 

even,  were 
>  loss.  Of 
iir  food  will 
aple  articles 

it  is  both 
;p  a  supply 


Two  medium-sized  hams  will  he  enough  for 
our  party,  we  shall  probably  find,  while  we 
siiall  need  at  least  five  pounds  of  colTee,  and 
twenty  pounds  of  sugar  to  sweeten  it. 

Nothing  is  more  essential  to  camp  life  than 
the  coffee-pot.  Its  fragrance  as  it  bubbles  on  the 
stove,  before  supper,  is  enough  to  make  the 
crustiest  nature  genial,  and  its  aromatic  flavor 
will  encourage  and  strengthen  us  for  a  hard 
day's  tramp,  or  will  soothe  and  dissipate  the 
aches  and  stiflhess  of  a  twenty  mile  walk,  as 
nothing  else  in  our  larder  will  do.  Long  may 
the  coffee-bag  hold  out,  say  we. 

Of  course  we  want  the  salt  pork  (five  or  six 
pounds  of  it),  to  use  in  cooking  the  speckled 
trout,  which  we  have  already  caught  in  imagina- 
tion, a  hundred  times  over,  from  the  mountain 
streams. 

The  corn  meal  will  be  useful  to  roll  our  fish 
in  before  frying  them,  as  well  as  to  make  the 
Johnnie  cakes,  which,  as  an  alternate  with  our 
hard  tack,  will  seem  so  delicious  to  our  hungry 
souls.     Borden's  condensed   milk  makes  a  very 


ill 


good  and  convenient  suhstitiite  for  milk  in  cofTec, 
tliougli  it  is  vvorlh  little  fur  oilier  puiposcs. 

As  for  prepared  meats,  wc  hail  better  not 
take  many  cans  of  them,  unless  wc  have  a  notion 
of  trcatii.gthc  New  Hampshire  crows  and  hawks 
to  their  contents.  The  picture  of  the  sirloin  roast 
on  the  outside  of  the  can  looks  very  juicy,  to  bo 
sure,  and  the  labels,  "  Roast  Beef,"  and  "  Chicken 
Soup,"  sound  extremely  inviting.  But,  alas,  we 
can  hardly  make  a  meal  of  the  name  or  picture, 
and  upon  opening  our  can  of  "  Roast  Beef,"  we 
shall  find  nothing  but  a  square  chunk  of  "  Mys- 
tery," and  a  very  tasteless  chunk  it  will  be  too ; 
while  the  "Chicken  Soup"  (we  are  fortunately 
told  what  it  is  in  plain  print,  on  the  outside)  will 
hardly  be  appreciated,  unless  one  has  u  decided 
liking  for  hard  little  cubes  of  carrot  and  turnip. 

If  i<n  apology  is  required  for  the  minuteness 
with  which  the  contents  of  our  provision-box 
are  catalogued,  it  is  humbly  submitted  that  re- 
peated experience  shows  tiiat  the  articles  men- 
tioned  are,  on  the  whole,  the  best  for  a  jaunt 
like  oins. 


now   TO  ENJOY  TJIEM. 


n 


lilk  in  cofTec, 
iiirposes. 
1  better  not 
lavc  a  notion 
rs  and  hawks 
:  sirloin  roust 
!  juicy,  to  be 
id  "  Chicken 
But,  alas,  we 
ic  or  picture, 
1st  Beef,"  we 
Ilk  of  "  Mys- 
will  be  too ; 
e  fortunately 
outside)  will 
as  a  decided 
t  and  turnip, 
e  minuteness 
provision-box 
itted  that  re- 
articles  men- 
it  for  a  jaunt 


Next,  we  shall  put  into  our  wa^jon  a  box  con- 
tainin^f  our  coU'ee-pol,  spidor,  and  small  iron 
kettle,  besides  the  tin  plate,  cup,  knife,  fork,  and 
spoon  for  each  one  of  the  party. 

On  top  of  nil  these  boxes  we  can  pile  our  rolls 
of  blankets,  one  or  two  for  each  man,  not  forget- 
ting a  ouple  of  rubber  blankets  to  spread  on  the 
floor  of  the  tent;  and  last  of  all  will  rome  our 
stove,  which  should  be  small  anil  light,  weighing 
not  more  than  forty  pounds  (such  i  one  as  can 
be  bought  at  almost  any  old  iron  store  for  a  dollar 
and  a  half).  The  little  stove  will  be  found  a 
great  convenience,  for  it  is  easily  handled  by  one 
man,  and  saves  the  great  bother  of  always  hav- 
ing a  fireplace  to  build  when  a  cup  of  coflee  or 
a  slice  of  fried  bacon  is  wanted. 

Now  the  wagon  is  all  snugly  packed,  and, 
having  donned  our  very  oldest  and  'coarsest 
clothes,  we  shall  be  ready  to  start  at  daybreak 
to-morrow  for  the  White  Hills.  A  very  good 
uniform,  by  the  way,  for  such  a  pedestrian  toiu', 
is  a  blue  flannel  shirt,  and  stout  gray  trousers, 
without  coat  or  vest,  though  it  would  be  well  to 


i 


II 


24 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


put  couts  in  tlie  wagon,  to  provide  for  the  con- 
tingency that  the  nights  among  the  mountains 
may  be  cool. 

Fifteen  miles  will  be  enough  for  the  first  day's 
march  (we  shall  all  agree  on  this  point  before 
the  day  is  over,  I  am  sure),  and  if  we  start  by 
six  o'clock,  or  as  soon  as  we  have  surrounded  a 
good  hot  breakfast,  we  shall  have  made  our  fif- 
teen miles  before  two  o'clock  in  tlie  afternoon. 
And  O,  the  delights  of  those  long  summer  after- 
noons in  camp ! 

Tom,   and    Hiram,   and    Jack,  perhaps    have 

done  their  share  of  the  afternoon's  work   in  jjut- 

ting  up  the  tent,  and    arranging  things    inside ; 

•  while  it  is  for  Dick  and  Sam  to  superintend  the 

dinner. 

How  fragrant  that  whifl' of  coffee  was  that  just 
now  floated  into  the  open  tent !  How  cheerily 
the  fire  crackles  in  the  stove,  and  the  bacon  siz- 
zles in  the  spider ! 

How  those  pains  and  aches,  which  the  fifteen 
miles  of  steady  tramping  put  into  our  legs,  ooze 
out  of  them,  as  we  stretch  ourselves  at  full  length, 


9. 

ide  for  the  con- 
the  mountains 

)r  the  first  day's 
lis  point  before 

if  we  start  by 
e  surrounded  a 
c  made  our  fif- 

tiie  afternoon, 
g  suniuicr  after- 

,  perhaps   have 

1*8  work   in  )nit- 

things    inside ; 

superintend  the 

fee  was  that  just 

How  cheerily 

i  the  bacon  siz- 

kfhich  tiie  fifteen 
o  our  legs,  ooze 
es  at  full  length, 


J/Oiy  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


25 


in  Oriental  fashion,  upon  the  blankets !  In  short, 
what  a  jolly  time  we  are  having,  and  what  a 
grand  thing  tent  life  is  after  the  day's  work 
is  done ! 

And  now  Dick  is  pounding  on  the  kettle  by 
way  of  a  gong,  to  let  us  know  that  dinner  is 
ready.  Did  any  one  ever  taste  such  crisp  ham 
and  fried  potatoes.?  The  pilot  bread  is  a  little 
hard,  to  be  sure,  but  then  it  is  wonderfully 
sweet— isn't  it?  Surely  hens  never  laid  such 
fresh  eggs  in  the  region  of  Boston  !  Indeed,  how 
could  anything  be  changed  for  the  better? 

Even  this  barren,  old  New  Hampshire  pas- 
ture, which  stretches  in  front  of  us,  looks 
almost  glorified  as  we  view  it  through  the 
delicious  steam  that  arises  from  our  coflee-cup. 
By  and  by  it  begins  to  grow  dark  ;  we  have 
thought  best  to  "  turn  in "  early,  and  nothing 
is  now  to  be  seen  in  the  tent  but  six  long  mum- 
mies rolled  in  blankets. 

Soon  the  last  story  has  been  told,  the  last  co- 
nundrum "  given  up,"  the  last  joke  cracked,  the 
soughing  of  the  wind  in  the  pine  branches  above 


IT 


26 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


us  grows  more  and  more  indistinct  —  and  — 
Well,  it  is  morning,  and  Torn  is  stirring  about 
the  tent,  trying  to  impress  on  four  desperately 
sleepy  individuals  that  it  is  time  to  be  getting 
breakfast. 

It  is  wonderful  how  completely  the  roseate 
hue  which  surrounded  everything  yesterday 
afternoon  ha  a  departed. 

The  p?.sturc  in  which  the  tent  is  pitched  is 
a  wretched  rocky  field,  after  all.  It  seems  as 
though  the  damp  wood  never  would  burn,  and 
when  it  does,  the  spider  full  of  ham,  which  is 
to  make  our  breakfast,  will  be  sure  to  burn  with 
it.  And  then  we  all  feel  so  stiff,  and  sore,  and 
uncomfortable  generally,  that  we  are  a  good- 
natured  party,  indeed,  if  we  get  through  the 
morning  without  any  exhibitions  of  total  de- 
pravity. But  a  generous  cup  of  coffee  will 
dispel  many  of  these  evil  spirits  of  ill-nature ; 
and  a  couple  of  miles  of  walking  will  limber 
up  our  locomotive  powers,  aud  drive  away  the 
rest  of  them,  so  that,  long  before  the  sun  is  two 
hours  high,  you  couldn't  find  a  jollier  set  of  fel- 
lows than  are  we. 


m^ 


1 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


27 


t  —  and  — 
ring  about 
lesperately 
be   getting 

he   roseate 
yesterday 

pitched  is 
t  seems  as 

burn,  and 
,  which  is 

burn  with 
1  sore,  and 
e  a  good- 
irough  the 
total  de- 
:offee   will 

ill-nature ; 
vill  limber 
e  away  the 
sun  is  two 

set  of  fel- 


But  here  we  are  on  the  second  day  of  our 
trip,  and  we  haven't  yet  told  the  reader  that  we 
started  with  liim  from  the  beautiful  littL  village 
of  Cen  er  Harbor,  New  Hampshire.  If  you 
are  Hubbites,  in  order  to  join  us  you  must 
trudge  through  North-eastern  Massachusetts,  and 
South-eastern  New  Hampshire,  along  the  eastern 
shore  of  charming  Winnepiseogee,  until,  at 
about  the  end  of  the  fourth  day  out,  you  will 
find  yourselves  encamped  at  Center  Harbor. 
If  it  is  not  your  good  fortune  to  reside  in  the 
Tri mountain  city,  you  will  doubtless  take  some 
other  route ;  but,  at  any  rate,  you  will  be  very 
likely  to  pass  through  Center  Harbor;  so  we 
will  follow  the  ramblings  of  our  mountaineers 
from  this  point. 

Some  spot  in  the  neighborhood  of  Tamworth 
will  be  our  camping-ground  on  the  first  night 
out  from  Center  Harbor,  after  a  pleasant  day's 
walk  of  seventeen  miles.  And  now  we  begin 
to  get  into  the  midst  of  the  grandest  mountain 
scenery.  Beyond  the  village  of  Tamworth  looms 
up  Chicorua  (Coroway  in  the  vernacular  of  the 


li 


28 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


inhabitants),  and  a  most  remarkable  mountain  it 
is.  No  otlior  hills  are  in  its  immediate  neighbor- 
hood to  lessen  its  etVcct,  while  its  precipitous 
sides  form  almost  a  perfect  cone,  whose  apex 
is  so  pointed,  that  or.ly  a  few  persons  can  stand 
upon  it  at  the  same  time.  The  Tamworthians 
have  a  legend  to  the  effect  that  the  mountain 
takes  its  name  from  an  Indian  chief,  who,  after 
murdering  a  family  of  white  men,  unwisely 
took  refuge  on  this  mountain.  Here  he  was 
pursued  by  the  avenging  whites,  and,  on  the 
very  top,  surrounded  by  his  enemies,  with  no 
way  to  escape,  was  killed  in  a  manner  that 
fully  satisfies  the  demands  of  poetic  justice, 
■  and  that  affords  a  thrilling  plot  for  the  imagi- 
nation of  any  dime  novel  writer  iu  the  country. 
A  day  devoted  to  visiting  "  Coroway "  and 
the  beautiful  lake  which  lies  at  its  base  will  be 
well  spent  if  we  can  afford  the  time ;  but  if  not, 
we  must  push  on  the  next  day  to  North  Con- 
way, twenty  miles  farther  into  the  mountains 
than  our  last  camp.  This  we  shall  find  a  beau- 
tiful place,  full  of  boarding-houses,  and  a  very 


mountain  it 
ite  neighbor- 
precipitous 
whose  apex 
IS  can  sta.id 
unvvorthians 
10  mountain 
:f,  who,  after 
n,  unwisely 
ere  he  was 
and,  on  the 
ics,  with  no 
uanner  that 
letic  justice, 
r  the  iniagi- 
the  country, 
roway  "  and 
base  will  be 
;  but  if  not, 
North  Con- 
e  mountains 
find  a  beau- 
and  a  very 


HOW   TO  EI^OY  THEM. 


29 


high  place  to  live  in,  in  every  sense  of  the  word. 
Hitherto  we  have  been  able  to  buy  all  the  eggs 
we  wanted  for  fifteen  or  twenty  cents  a  dozen, 
but  here  they  make  a  sudden  leap  to  thirty 
cenis.  The  cows,  too,  will  only  give  milk  for 
eight  cents  a  quart  at  Conway,  though  in  other 
towns  we  have  had  to  pay  but  half  that  price ; 
so  that,  in  order  to  live  within  our  fifteen  dollars, 
we  shall  be  obliged  to  draw  largely  on  the  hard 
tack  barrp'.  Indeed,  w  shall  find  that  the  price 
of  living  will  continue  to  rise  as  wc  ascend. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  the  people  of  this 
region  charge  a  dollar  for  every  foot  they  get 
above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  thus  at  Conway 
you  could  spend  the  season  at  a  fashionable 
hotel  for  two  or  three  thousand  dollars.  At 
the  Crawford,  farther  up,  the  expenses  would 
probably  not  be  more  than  four  thousand ; 
while  at  the  Tip-top  House,  which  is  some- 
thing more  than  six  thousand  feet  high,  you 
could  get  along  very  comfortably  for  six  thou- 
sand dollars.  We  give  no  voucher  for  the  ex- 
act truth  of  this  statement ;  it  is  only  approxi- 
mate. 


in 


30 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


At  Conway  we  shall  find  a  very  good  place 
to  pitch  our  tent,  in  a  pine  grove,  a  little  east 
of  the  village,  and,  as  the  next  days  march 
will  take  us  out  of  the  bounds  of  civilization, 
it  will  be  well  for  us  to  have  Conway's  excel- 
lent artist  take  a  picture  of  our  party  in  camp, 
should  we  desire  a  more  permanent  impres- 
sion of  the  way  we  looked  "  the  summer  we 
went  to  the  mountains"  than  our  memories 
will  be  likely  to  retain. 

Of  course  Conway,  like  all  these  mountain 
towns,  has  innumerable  cascades,  and  chasms, 
and  mountain  views,  to  show  the  astonished 
traveller;  but  unless  we  have  plenty  of  time 
at  our  disposal,  we  shall  be  likely  co  push  on, 
the  next  day,  in  the  direction  of  Bartlett. 

It  is  often  amusing  to  notice  the  different 
answers  we  shall  get  to  the  frequent  question, 
"  How  far,"  to  a  place  ten  miles  or  more  away. 
"Good  morning,  my  friend,"  we  will  say  to 
a  farmer,  who  is  busily  hoemg  his  paternal 
potato  patch:  "how  far  is  it  to  Bartlett?" 
"  Wal,  I  reckon  it's  nigh  onto  seventeen  mile," 


lili 


HOVr  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


31 


good  place 
a  little  east 
ays  march 
civilization, 
way's  excel- 
ty  in  camp, 
;nt  imprcs- 
summer  we 
•    memories 

,e  mountain 
ind  chasms, 
!  astonished 
nty  of  time 
CO  push  on, 
irtlett. 

he  different 
;nt  question, 
more  away, 
will  say  to 
(lis  paternal 
0  Bartlett?" 
nteen  mile," 


he  will  answer ;  and  we  pass  on,  congratulat- 
ing ourselves  that  we  have  got  an  easy  day's 
march  before  us.  Soon  we  pass  an  Irishman 
working  on  the  road,  and  propound  to  him 
the  same  question,  "  Sure  an"  it's  twenty  shar-rp 
miles,"  he  will  be  very  likely  to  reply.  A 
tourist,  perhaps,  will  be  the  next  person  we 
meet.  "  How  far  to  Bartlett  ?  O,  a  deuce  of 
a  ways ;  twenty-five  miles  at  least."  By  this 
time  we  shall  probably  give  up  inquuing,  and 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  Bartlett  is  a  Jack- 
o'lantern,  which  retreats  as  we  advance,  while 
very  likely  we  shall  find  at  night,  when  we 
have  caught  the  fugitive,  and  pitched  our  tent 
in  the  very  midst  of  her,  that  none  of  our  in- 
forman;-,  came  within  a  league  of  the  correct 
distance. 

Not  that  Bartlett  is  anything  like  a  score 
of  miles  from  our  camp  at  North  Conway ;  if 
we  follow  our  usual  custom  of  doing  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  our  walking  early  in  the  day,  we 
shall  pass  through  this  pretty  little  mountain 
village  about  the  time  that  the  early  worm  is 


3= 


06V?   VACATIONS. 


popularly  supposed  to  be  devoiired,  and  shall  get 
quite  a  distance  into  the  ungranted  lands  of  New 
Hampshire  before  the  afternoon  sun  tells  us  it  is 
time  to    pitch  our  tent. 

And  these  ungranted  lands,  it  may  be  taken  for 
granted,  will  never  find  anybody  willing  to  take 
a  grant  of  them,  for  agricultural  purposes  at 
least,  so  rough  and  rocky  arc  they.  Indeed,  you 
might  as  well  try  to  cultivate  the  slate  roof  of  a 
meeting-house.  A  mansard  roof,  with  a  cover- 
ing of  asbestos,  would  be  a  far  more  desirable 
location. 

But  the  more  ungrantable  the  country  becomes, 
the  higher  do  the  mountains  tower  on  every  side  ; 
and  thus  the  law  of  compensation  equalizes 
things,  making  the  scenery  grander  and  more 
picturesque  as  the  country  becomes  more  unciv- 
ilized and  the  roads  more  impassable. 

It  is  something  abov2  thirty  miles  from  North 
Conway  to  the  place  we  shall  make  our 
headquarters  during  our  stay  among  the  White 
Hills,  —  rather  a  long  day's  march  over  the 
rough  mountain  roads,  —  and  we  shall  probably 


id  shall  get 
ids  of  New 
ells  us  it  is 

be  taken  for 
iiig  to  take 
purposes  at 
Indeed,  you 
te  roof  of  a 
•ith  a  cover- 
ire  desirable 

try  becomes, 
1  every  side ; 
)n  equalizes 
;r  and  more 
more  unciv- 
e. 

i  from  North 
[  make  our 
ig  the  White 
ch  over  the 
liall  probably 


be  ready  to  encamp  by  the  time  we  get  to  tlic 
Crawford  House,  some  eighteen  or  twenty  miles 
from  our  last  camp. 

All  the  land  in  this  neigliborliood,  for  eighteen 
miles  on  either  side  of  the  road,  is  owned  by  an 
eccentric  old  gentleman  named  Beamis,  who  has 
built  a  very  pretty  cottage  near  the  old  Crawford 
House. 

It  is  whispered  that  Dr.  Beamis  is  rather  op- 
posed to  having  parties  encamp  upon  his  ground  ; 
but  we  shall  iiiul  plenty  of  room  for  our  tent  be- 
side the  public  road,  without  trespassing  upon 
the  doctor's  eighteen  miles  of  wilderness. 

Three  miles  from  this  camp  is  the  Willey 
House,  a  place  which  the  standard  reading  book 
of  thirty  years  ngo  impressed  so  strongly  upon 
the  children  of  the  last  generation.  And  a  toler- 
ably correct  picture  the  old  reading  book  gives 
of  this  historic  house,  even  at  the  present  day, 
barring,  of  course,  the  family,  whom,  if  memory 
serves,  the  artist  represents  fleeing  in  dire  dismay, 
as  well  they  might,  some  in  one  direction  and 
some  in  another,  from  the  approaching  avalanche. 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


34 

On  a  former  visit  to  the  mountains  wc  saw  a  girl 
slandins  in  l^c  doorway  of  this  very  house,  who 
certainly  would  have  been  safe  had  she  belonged 
to  the  original  WiUcy  family,  for  surely  nothing 
would  have  aroused  her  stupid,  lethargic  soul  to 
attempt  a  flight.    As  we  approached  the  houae, 
wc  very  naturally  asked  her, — 
"  Is  this  the  old  Willey  House?" 
"Dunno,"   was    the    laconic    answer  we   re- 
ceived. 

"  What,  don't  you  know  whether  this  was  the 
house  that  so  wonderfully  escaped  destruction  in 
the  avalanche  of  iSi6,  when  all  the  family,  who 
attempted  to  escape,  were  killed?" 
"  Dumio,"  she  again  replied. 
And  "  Dunno,"  wa;i  all  wc  could   get  from 
this  sapient  damsel ;  and  wc  had  to  seek  for  our 
desired  information  elsewhere. 

It  is  curiou*s  to  notice  the  different  varieties  of 
character  one  meets  on  a  trip  like  ours.  In  the 
first  place,  we  shall  find  quite  a  number  like  the 
girl  just  alluded  to.  To  this  class  belong  the 
crusty  old  farmers,  who  have  lived  half  a  ccn- 


s. 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


35 


ins  wc  saw  a  girl 
very  house,  who 
ud  she  belonged 
r  surely  nothing 
lethargic  soul  to 
ichcd  the  house, 


answer  we   re- 

Lhcr  this  was  the 
)cd  'lestruction  in 
1  the  family,  who 
i?" 


could    get  from 
id  to  seek  for  our 

[Terent  varieties  of 
like  ours.  In  the 
I  number  like  the 
\  class  belong  the 
lived  half  a  cen- 


tury within  sight  of  the  grandest  mountains  of 
New  England,  yet  who  have  never  seen  the  glo- 
rious view  from  their  top,  because,  forsooth,  they 
regard  every  day  as  wasted  that  is  not  spent  grub- 
bing in  their  corn-field  or  potato-patch.  These 
men  would  hardly  know  it,  should  the  judgment 
day  begin  upon  earth,  and  would  be  very  likely  to 
mistake  Gabriel's  trumpet  for  a  fish-horn. 

Then  there  is  another  species  of  i\\c  genus 
homo  yclept  Yankee,  often  met,  who  are  just 
the  opposite  of  these.  Such  men  arc  not  only 
ready  to  impart  a  vast  amount  of  information 
and  advice,  but  arc  exceedingly  anxious  to  add  to 
their  own  stock  of  knowledge.  Some  of  their 
first  questions,  in  all  probability,  will  be,  — 

*'  Stranger,  what  mought  I  cali  yer  name?" 

♦'  I  mought  call  it  Smith,  eh .?  " 

"  Well,  is  trade  pooty  brisk  down  your  way 
this  summer?" 

"  What,  ye  ain't  a  storekeeper  ? " 

*'  A  doctor  then,  perhaps?  " 

"No?     Dutell!" 

"  You've  come  a  pooty  considerable  ways,  I 

reckon  ?  " 


36 


OUK   VACATIONS. 


"  Moinc  a  liuiulrcd  miles,  have  ycr?" 

*'  Yc  must  live   somewhar  near  Uoston,  then, 
I  calkcrlale." 

"  O,  yc  live  in  the  city,  du  yc  ?  " 

"  Know  a  follow  named  Jack  Styles?  " 

"  lie  lives  in  Boston,  I  believe." 

"Don't?" 

"  Show ! " 

And  thus  our  genuine  Yankee  friend  would 
talk  for  hours,  fully  satisfied  with  our  monosyl- 
labic replies. 

A  near  relative  to  this  loquacious  individual  is 
the  person  who  always  leaves  his  mark  wherever 
he  goes,  so  that  every  smooth  rock,  or  beech  tree, 
•  or  guide-post,  along  the  route,  proclaims  to  the 
wondering  public  ihat  John  Jones,  who  belongs, 
perchance,  to  the  I.  O.  of  G.  T.,  or  the  G.  A.  R., 
or  some  other  cabalistic  society,  has  been  that 

way. 

But  most  disagreeable  of  all  is  the  snobbish 
tourist,  whom  we  shall  occasionally,  and.—thank 
fortune,  —  only  occasionally,  meet.  It  is  very 
seldom  that  he  will  deign  to  notice,  much  less 


now  TO  KNyov  them. 


37 


ycr?" 

r  LJostou,  then, 


tylcs?" 


e   friend  would 
h  our  monosyl- 

ous  individual  is 
i  mark  wherever 
k,  or  beech  tree, 
)roclaims  to  the 
CB,  who  belongs, 
or  the  G.  A.  R., 
',  has  been  that 

is  the  snobbish 
dly,  and, — thank 
icet.  It  is  very 
loticc,  much  less 


speak  to,  such  travel-stained,  unpretentious  pil- 
grims as  we  are.  IJiit  when  he  does  condescend 
to  aildress  us —  Well,  you  know  how  he  will 
talk  ;  for  the  snob  is  tlie  same  combination  of  in- 
sipiility,  efleminacy,  and  conceit  the  world  over. 

But  to  return  to  our  party  and  the  Willey 
Mouse,  where  we  left  them  meditating  on  tlic 
mutability  of  human  life  in  general,  and  llie  dan- 
ger of  avalanches  in  particular. 

Behind  the  house  stands  tiic  hill  from  which 
the  avalance  rolled.  Dame  Nature,  however,  has 
covered  with  a  green  mantle  of  trees  and  bushes 
the  gashes  and  chasms  which,  nearly  fifty  years 
ago,  were  made  in  its  side  ;  and  now  it  looks  as 
peaceful  and  steadfast  as  any  of  t'le  everlasting 
hills  which  tower  above  it.  A  few  rods  behind 
tiie  house  we  can  see  the  great  rock,  whicli  so 
miraculously  divided  the  great,  onrnshing  mass 
of  stones 'and  dirt,  and  saved  the  house,  while  the 
whole  family,  who  rushed  out  to  save  them- 
selves, were  destroyed. 

Three  miles  from  the  Willey  House  is  the  far- 
famed  Crawford  Hotel ;  but,  our  purses  not  being 


38 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


long,  we  shall  not  tarry  here  a  great  while,  but 
push  on  six  miles  farther,  to  the  White  Mounta'n 
House,  where  is  not  only  a  good  place  to  encamp, 
but  cheaper  accommodation  for  man  and  beast 
than  at  almost  any  other  hotel  in  the  mountains. 
This  is  an  important  consideration,  too,  just  now, 
since  tlicre  are  no  stores  in  tliis  region  for  miles 
and  miles,  and  we  must  depend  upon  some  pub- 
lic house  for  supplies,  should  the  provi'iions  in 
our  wagon  give  out. 

The  route  thus  far  travelled  has  given  an 
abundance  of  most  various  and  picturesque 
mountain  scenery.  There  are  the  perpendicu- 
lar hills  that  wall  in  the  Notch,  while  for  some 
distance  we  have  followed  the  course  of  a  little 
babbling,  sparkling  brook,  which,  one  learns  with 
wonder,  exj^ands  before  long  into  the  broad  and 
impetuous  Saco. 

Near  tlie  Crawford  Hou.e  we  notice  ohe  guide- 
board  directing  to  the  "  Silver  Cascade,"  and 
anotlicr  to  the  "  Old  Woman  of  the  Mountain." 
Perhaps  the  guide-books  and  boards  give  this 
stony  matron  a  more  euphonious  name  than  this ; 


Vs. 


'great  while,  but 

White  Mounta'ii 

phice  to  encamp, 

man  and   beast 

1  the  mountains. 

on,  too,  just  now, 
region  for  miles 
upon  some  pub- 

the  provi"ions  in 

d  has  given  an 
and  picturesque 
e  the  perpendicu- 
;h,  while  for  some 
;  course  of  a  little 
:h,  one  learns  with 
tito  the  broad  and 

!  notice  ohc  guide- 
cr  Cascade,"  and 
of  the  Mountain." 
boards  give  this 
IS  name  than  this ; 


NO IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


39 


but  it  takes  a  stretch  of  imagination,  of  which 
only  a  moinitain  hotel-keeper  or  a  guide-book 
author  is  capable  to  see  the  resemblance  which 
the  name  indicates,  in  the  jagged  piece  of  rock 
that  is  pointed  out  as  the  '•  Old  Woman." 

But  then  the  Franconia  Notch  has  its  "  Old 
Man  o*"  the  Mountain,"  and  of  course  the  Craw- 
ford Notch  musn't  be  without  a  rival. 

It  will  be  very  convenient  to  make  the  camp 
at  the  White  Mountain  House  headquarters  for 
three  or  four  days,  and  from  thence  to  take  ex- 
cursions to  the  various  points  of  interest  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Of  course  Mount  Willard  must  be  climbed  — 
a  trip  which  can  easily  be  accomi^lished  in  one 
day.  The  view  f'om  the  summit  is  more  con- 
tracted than  that  from  many  of  its  big  brothers, 
to  be  sure ;  but,  then,  it  has  the  advantage  of 
being  more  distinct,  and  in  tltc  opinion  of  many 
no  sublimcr  outlook  can  be  found  in  ail  the 
niot'"*ains. 

The  top  of  Mount  Washington  can  be  easily 
reached  in  either  of  two  ways  from  a  camp  at 
the  White  Mountain  House. 


i 


4° 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


In  tlic  first  place,  the  ascent  can  be  made  by 
the  bridle-path,  near  the  Crawford  House,  a  com- 
paratively easy  climb  of  nine  miles ;  or  we  can 
follow  the  railroad  track  to  the  top,  a  route  which 
shortens  the  ascent  to  three  miles,  though  it 
makes  it  much  more  steep  and  difficult. 

If  there  are  any  ladies  in  the  party,  the  bridle- 
path will  be  wisely  chosen  ;  but  no  matter  which 
way  is  taken,  the  travellers  will  be  tired  enough 
when  Ihey  reach  the  top.     Not  wishing  to  pay 
a  dollar  and  a  half  for  the  privilege  of  spending 
the  night  at  one  of  the  tip-top  hotels,  and  it  being 
impossible  to  encamp  on  the  summit  with  any 
degree  of  comfort  or  safety,  there  is  yet  a  way 
td  accomplish  tlie  desired  result  of  being  there  at 
sunrise.     For  a  small  consideration,  and  perhaps 
free  gratis,  permission  may  be  obtained  to  spread 
our  blankets  on  the  floor  of  the  depot,  where  we 
shall  doubtless  sleep   as  soundly  as  though  the 
mercury  was  not  down  to  the  freezing-point,  and 
the  wind  blowing  fifty   miles  an   hour  outside. 
But  let  us  hope  that  the  sun  may  rise  clear  to- 
morrow morning,  for  if  it  does  not  we  shall  carry 


B 


IfOlV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


4» 


)0  made  by 
ousc,  a  com- 
;  or  we  can 
route  which 
i,  though  it 
icult. 

.',  the  bridie- 

Tiattcr  which 

tired  enougli 

shing  to  pay 

of  spending 

and  it  being 

mit  with  any 

is  yet  a  way 

jeing  there  at 

and  perliaps 

lied  to  spread 

ot,  where  we 

s  though   the 

ig-point,  and 

Hour  outside. 

rise  clear  to- 

iTc  shall  carry 


through  life,  whenever  wc  think  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington, only  the  remembrance  of  a  jagged  pile 
of  rocks,  surmounted  by  two  or  three  stone  bar- 
racks, while  in  all,  and  through  all,  and  over  all, 
is  this  cold,  wet,  drizzly  fog,  the  very  thought  of 
which  will  make  one  shiver  on  a  dog  day.  But 
if  it  be  clear  and  bright,  no  words  can  describe 
tiie  wondrous  scenes  that  will  unfold,  and  no 
past  fatigue  can  be  weighed  in  the  balance 
against  the  satisfaction  of  the  hour. 

A  visit  to  Tuckerman's  Ravine,  and  a  side 
excursion  to  one  of  the  patches  of  snow,  so  that 
we  can  boast  to  o"-r  friends  at  home  of  a  game 
of  snow-balling  in  the  middle  of  summer,  will 
consume  a  large  part  of  the  day,  and  we  proba- 
bly shall  not  reach  our  camp  at  the  White 
Mountain  House  before  nightfall. 

Great' as  is  our  wonder  at  the  grandeur  of 
natiue  upon  tiicsc  mountain  tops,  it  is  not  un- 
mixed with  feelings  of  admiration  for  the  inge- 
nuity of  man  in  overcoming  the  difficulties  of 
ascent. 

The  railroad  is  a  standing  marvel.     As  is  well 


42 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


known,  it  climbs  the  mountain  in  three  miles, 
which  necessitates  a  rise  on  an  average  of  one 
foot  in  four,  and  sometimes  as  steep  as  one  foot 
in  three. 

The  single  passenger  coach  is  pushed  slowly 
before  the  engine,  while,  so  steep  is  the  ;radc, 
that  the  forward  end  of  this  little  car  (not  half  as 
long  as  an  ordinary  passenger  car)  is  more  than 
ten  feet  higher  than  the  rear. 

Travel  on  such  a  road  would  seem  to  be  ac- 
companied with  unnumbered  dangers ;  but  so 
perfect  is  the  system  of  coga  and  brakes  that  not 
an  accident  to  life  or  limb  has  yet  occurred. 

The  originator  and  builder  of  the  road  says 
he  does  not  wonder  that  people  ridiculed  his 
idea  when  he  first  proposed  to  run  a  train  of  cars 
to  the  top  of  Mount  Washington  ;  nor  can  we 
wonder  cither,  as  we  climb  carefully  down  the 
gaping  trestle-work  on  which  the  tracks  are  laid, 
or  struggle  over  the  roots  and  stones  which  ob- 
struct the  "  Fabyan  Path  ;  "  poetically  so  called, 
we  presun" :;,  for  it  is  without  doubt  the  worst 
little  trail  that  ever  led  down  a  mountain  side. 


three  miles, 

srasc  of  one 

as  one  foot 

ishecl  slowly 
s  the  ^radc, 
r  (not  half  as 
is  more  than 

jm  to  be  ac- 
jcrs ;  but    so 
akes  that  not 
xurred. 
he  road  says 
ridiculed   his 
n  train  of  cars 
;  nor  can  we 
illy  down  the 
acks  are  laid, 
neb  which  ob- 
:ally  so  called, 
.ibt  the    worst 
mtain  side. 


NOPV  TO   ENJOY  THEM. 43 

"^  devoting  thr^  days  and  a  few  dollars  more 
to  the  White  Hills,  we  can  go  around  the  moun- 
tain, and  see  the  beauties  of  the  glen,  the  emerald 
pool.  Glen  Ellis  Falls,  &c. ;  but  if  the  three 
weeks  and  fifteen  dollars  limits  proposed  at  the 
outset  are  adhered  to,  the  tent  must  be  struck  on 
the  next  morning  after  the  visit  to  the  monarch 
of  these  hills,  and  the  line  of  march  for  the  Fran- 
conias  be  taken  up. 

The  first  day's  journey  takes  the  party  by  the 
Twin  Mountain  House,  — one  of  the  finest  of  the 
mountain  hotels,  which  during  some  seasons  has 
been    able  to   offer   the    unusual  attractions   of 
"  Beecher  every  Sunday,  and  dances  every  even- 
ing," _  through  the  pretty  little  village  of  Befale- 
hcm,  and  just  at  nightfall,  after  toiling  up  three 
or  four  miles  of  a  most  leg-wearying  hill,  brings 
the  party  into  the  very  heart  of  the  Franconia 
Mountains,  and    more  than    two   thousand   feet 
above  the  sea  level. 

These  hills  are  so  heavily  wooded  that  it  is 
not  easy  to  find  a  cleared  place  large  enough  to 
pitch  the  tent,  much  less  to  pasture  a  horse  ;  con- 


44 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


scquently  the  beast  must  be  stabled  at  the  Profile 
House  barns,  which  will  cost  a  dollar  a  day  ;  and 
if  the  little  shanty,  called  tlie  Summit  House, 
about  a  mile  from  the  Profile  Hotel,  is  empty,  it 
will  be  best  to  spread  our  blankets  on  the  floor, 
and  after  making  a  smudge  of  chips  for  the 
benefit  of  the  mosquitos,  consign  ourselves  to 
the  charge  of  Morpiieus. 

Of  cour  o,  one  day  must  be  spent  in  tropting ; 
it  wouldn't  do  to  go  to  the  ir.oantains  and  not 
have  a  fish  story  to  carry  home  to  one's  friends. 
So  we  shall  undoubtedly  start  ofT  for  the  brooks, 
one  of  these  bright  mornings,  with  worms 
enough  to  feed  a  trout  pond,  and  line  enough 
dangling  from  our  poles  to  supply  a  mackerel 
schooner.  What  exultation  we  feel  as  we  think 
of  the  possibilities  of  sport  and  trout,  which  are 
before  us  to-day  !  There  tumbles  the  little  tnoun- 
tain  brook,  with  its  deep  holes  and  shady  nooks, 
each  one  containing  a  speckled  beauty,  that  we 
are  sure  was  foreordained  to  bite  oiu-  tempting 
bait  this  very  morning ;  for  why  should  >ye  not 
have  as  good  luck  as  the  Mr.  A.  we  read  about 


HOir   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


45 


the  Profile 
a  day ;  and 
nit  House, 
s  empty,  it 
1  tlie  floor, 
ps  for  the 
Lirselves    to 

in  tropting ; 
i]s  and  not 
le's  friends, 
the  brooks, 
nth  worms 
ine  enough 
a  mackerel 
as  we  think 
,  which  are 
little  moun- 
hady  nooks, 
ity,  that  we 
Lir  tempting 
»uld  >ye  not 
read  about 


in  the  paper,  last  week,  who  in  one  half  day 
caught  seventy-nine  trout,  all  weighing  over  a 
pound  apiece? 

Ah  !  Won't  Bill  Harris  open  his  eyes  when 
we  tell  him  of  that  great  string  we  caught,—  shall 
catch,  we  should  say,  for  we  have  just  dropped 
our  hook  over  the  edge  of  that  mossy  log,  where 
it  looks  so  black  and  deep? 

There,  we  have  a  bite  so,  soon  but  it  is  on  the 
back  of  the  hand  that  holds  the  pole  ;  and  as  we 
bring  the  other  hand  down  upon  it  with  a  vin- 
dictive slap,  we  jerk  the  pole,  and  the  hook  is 
caught  fast  in  the  mossy  log. 

Ten  mi.iutes  of  vexatious  work  on  the  slippery 
rocks  anJ  log  unfasten  the  hook,  and  we  drop 
i*  in  again,  just  where  the  water  eddies  round 
th  bijr  stone.  And  now  we  have  a  bona  fide 
trout  bite,  so  quick  and  sharp  \\\o  nibbling  and 
fooling  with  the  bait  for  a  trout),  and  up  we 
pull  in  great  excitement  to  see  our  line  firmly 
caught  in  a  limb  six  feet  over  our  head,  and  the 
trout  darting  oft'  to  another  rock  to  tell  his  friends 
of  his  adventure. 


46 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


Alieady  we  arc  prepared  to  pronounce  the 
man  who  caiiglit  tliosc  seventy-nine  trout  a 
fraud  ;  and  by  the  time  we  have  shinned  up  the 
tree  and  disentangled  the  line,  wc  can,  with  a 
hearty  good  will,  anathematize  trout,  and  lines, 
and  trees,  and  everything  else  connected  with 
brook  fishing. 

We  have  learned  two  things,  however :  first, 
that  three  or  four  feet  of  line  are  better  than  a 
dozen,  when  fishing  along  these  wooded  streams, 
and  that  a  quick  but  quiet  jerk  is  more  likely  to 
bring  up  a  fish  than  a  furious  one. 

If  we  learn  as  much  as  this  every  time  we  lose 
a  fish,  we  shall,  no  doubt,  go  back  to  the  summit 
shanty  at  night,  with  the  prospect  of  enjoying  a 
good  trout  supper,  and  with  the  proud  conscious* 
ness  of  having  a  very  respectable  fish  story  to 
relate  to  Bill  Harris  when  we  get  home. 

If  the  next  morning  is  pleasant,  there  is  a  pros- 
pect of  one  of  the  most  delightful  days  yet  spent 
among  the  mountains,  for  the  quiet  beauties  of 
the  Franconias  are  all  to  be  seen,  and  most  of 
them  can  be  easily  seen  in  one  day. 


IIOPV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


47 


nounce  the 
tie  trout  a 
iiicd  up  the 
can,  with  a 
1  and  lines, 
nectcd  with 

[vever:  first, 
ctter  than  a 
Jed  streams, 
3rc  likely  to 

imc  we  lose 
the  summit 
f  enjoying  a 
d  conscious- 
ish  story  to 
lome. 

re  is  a  pros- 
ys  yet  spent 
beauties  of 
nd  most  of 


One  of  the  most  pleasant  sensations  about 
these  excursions,  to  one  starting  off",  lively  and 
spirited,  in  the  cool  of  early  morning,  is  that  of 
entire  freedom  from  the  care  and  worry  of  ordi- 
nary life. 

What  does  it  matter  whether  gold  is  iiig  or 
1 11^?  CoUon  may  be  light  and  rising,  but  it 
cannot  be  lighter  than  our  spirits ;  while  sugar 
may  be  depressed  and  gunny-bags  dull  without 
having  any  corresponding  effect  upon  our  feel- 
ings. 

Old  Granny  Brown  may  have  the  pip,  and 
need  a  bread  pill,  but  her  complaints  can't  reach 
our  ears ;  or,  if  we  chance  to  belong  to  the  cleri- 
cal profession,  we  shall  find  tliat  we  left  our  He- 
brew roots  and  knotty  doctrines  at  home  with 
our  black  coats  and  ministerial  neck-tics. 

Echo  Lake  is  the  first  point  of  interest  reached 
after  leaving  camp,  and  it  is  well  worthy  of  the 
hour  devoted  to  it.  A  perfect  sparkling  gem  it 
is,  set  in  the  green  and  gray  of  the  surrounding 
mountains,  which  in  some  places  rise  perpendic- 
ularly from  the  water's  edge.     But  as  the  name 


48 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


indicates,  the  echo  is  the  attraction  of  the  little 
lake,,  fur  tiie  mountains  are  placed  at  snch 
nn  angle  that  the  report  of  a  pistol  or  a  blast 
from  tlic  huge  tin  horn  wliich  the  guide  carries, 
is  cai\ght  and  played  at  shuttlecock,  by  them, 
thrown  from  one  to  the  oilier,  time  after  time, 
until  at  length  the  poor  little  noise  is  entirely 
worn  out,  and  dies  away  in  the  distance. 

Half  a  mile  from  Echo  Lake  is  the  Profile 
House,  and  a  few  rods  beyond  (forty,  we  be- 
lieve, is  the  exact  niniiber)  is  the  best  place  to 
view  the  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountains"  for  whom 
the  hotel  was  named.  The  old  gentleman  is  of 
a  very  modest,  retiring  nature,  and  as  he  can 
not  very  well  retreat  from  the  vulgar  gaze,  he 
often  draws  a  cloudy  veil  over  his  features. 

Should  he  be  propitious,  howevei,  and  show 
himself,  we  could  sit  for  hours  on  the  rough 
little  seat  which  has  been  erected  by  the  road- 
side, and  gaze  on  his  rocky  profile,  as  the 
lights  and  shadows  play  over  it,  far  up  there 
in  cloudland,  thinking  of  VVIiittier's  graphic 
lines,  — 


I/OIV   TO  ENJOY  THhM. 


49 


f  ihc  little 
I  at  such 
or  a  blast 
tie  carries, 
,  by  them, 
after  time, 

is  entirely 
ancc. 

the  Profile 
irty,  we  be- 
est  place  to 
i "  for  whom 
Icman  is  of 

as  he  can 
;ar  gaze,  he 
features.     .  , 
1 ,  and  show 
(11  the  rough 
by  the  roacl- 
afile,   as    the 
far  up   there 
ier's    graphic 


"Like  a  sun-rimmed  cloud 
The  great  Notch  Mountains  shone, 
Watched  over  by  that  solemn  browed 
And  awful  face  of  stone," — 

as  well  as  of  many  other  sublime  and  poetic 
things ;  and  endeavoring  to  get  nil  the  glimpses 
we  can  of  the  "  Old  Man's  "  face,  as  we  continue 
our  walk  towanls  the  Flume. 

The  next  object  of  interest  reached  is  the 
"  Basin,"  which  is  hollowed  out  of  the  solid  rock 
as  smoothly  and  regularly  as  though  just  from 
the  shop  of  a  city  plumber.  Though  it  looks 
scarcely  six  feet  deep,  and  the  whole  bottom 
can  be  distinctly  seen,  the  natives  (relying  doubL 
less  upon  the  well-known  gullibility  of  tourists) 
tdl  wonderful  stories  in  regard  to  its  depth. 
It  is  a  very  .moderate  guide  who  falls  short  of 
forty  feet. 

Four  or  five  miles  below  the  Profile  House 
stands  the  Flume  House,  and  not  far  from  here 
we  take  a  patli  which  tlie  guide-board  tells  us 
leads  to  "  The  Pool ; "  for  we  are  determined  to 
investigate  to-day  all  the  natural  curiosities  that 
lie  in  our  way. 
4 


5° 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


I 


The  Pool  is  simply  an  enlarpeil  basin,  with 
more  turhicl  water,  ami  of  a  less  peifcct  shape. 
The  most  curious  thiii;jj  connected  with  tiic 
Pool  is  the  grizzly  old  philosoplicr  wiio  spends 
his  sinnmers  beside  it,  dispensing  maple  sugar 
and  lemonade  to  all  visitors.  Besides  com- 
pounding for  us  a  very  };ood  pitcher  of  lemon- 
ade, this  modern  Aristotle  (he  can  hardly  be 
called  a  peripatetic  philosopher,  ho'"evcr,  for 
lie  rows  rather  than  walks  about  'I  Invite 
us  to  take  seats  in  his  boat,  and  for  i  . ^derate 
consideration  of  twenty-five  cents,  he  will  ex- 
plain to  us  his  theory  of  cosmography  while 
he  rows  us  slowly  about  the  Pool. 

This  cosmography  of  his  is  simply  a  rehash 
of  Captain  Symmes's  theory  of  concentric  cir- 
cles, and  is  based  on  tlie  singular  fancy  that 
the  eartii  is  hollow,  and  inhabited  inside,  where 
continents  correspond  to  seas  upon  tlie  out- 
side, and  \  ice  versa.  Our  intertcrrestrial  cousins 
are  supplied  with  air  and  sunlight,  according 
to  this  philosopher,  by  means  of  big  holes  at 
cither  pole ;   and  in  his  opinion  they  lead  very 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM, 


5' 


basin,  with 
rfect  shape, 
d    with    tlic 
who  spends 
maple  sugar 
esicles    corn- 
ier of  Icnion- 
m   hardly  be 
ho'"evcr,   for 
t  l  invite 

V  .^derate 
,  he  will  ex- 
"laphy  while 
1. 

nply  a  rehash 
:oncentric  c'w- 
,ar   Huicy   that 
1  inside,  where 
ipon    the   out- 
Tcstrial  consins 
ght,    according 
(f  big    holes  at 
they  lead  very 


much  the  same  kind  of  lives  as  we  poor  mortals 
do  upon  the  outside.  Our  philosophic  boatman 
supports  his  romantic  notions  with  various 
arguments  (among  which  the  Caspian  Sea, 
which  has  no  outlet,  and  the  tropical  plants 
which  have  been  found  far  within  the  borders 
of  the  arctic  circle,  figure  largely),  and  illustrates 
them  with  diagrams  of  the  earth,  as  he  would 
have  it,  painted  upon  a  smooth  rock,  wliich 
walls  in  one  side  of  the  Pool. 

To  those  who  wish  to  investigate  the  mys- 
teries of  cosmography  still  farther,  our  friend 
will  sell  a  small  pamphlet,  which  he  has  written 
upon  this  subject,  to  which  he  has  appended 
a  string  of  recommendations  from  the  late 
sovereign  of  France,  the  emperor  of  China, 
and  other  potentates,  high  and  mighty,  all  of 
which  were  doubtless  sent  in  a  batch  by  some 
waggish  rogue. 

Not  more  than  half  a  mile  distant  from  the 
Pool  is  tiie  Flume,  the  goal  of  this  day's  walk, 
and  decidedly  the  most  remarkable  sight  yet 
found    among    the    mountains.      The    straight, 


r 


52 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


narrow  passage,  the  lofty  walls  of  rock  which 
tower  on  cither  side,  as  though  built  by  some 
Titanic  mason,  the  rushing,  boiling  brook  be- 
neath our  feet,  the  immense  boulder  caught  be- 
tween the  walls  of  the  Flume  directly  over 
our  heads,  which  it  seems  as  though  a  breath 
would  send  crashing  down,  —  all  conspire  to 
produce  an  impression  which  no  other  moun- 
tain scene  has  produced. 

But  the  garden  of  Eden  had  its  serpent ;  and 
the  Flume,  as  well  as  every  other  place  in  the 
mountains,  has  its  pest  in  the  shape  of  a  mos- 
qu'to  or  midge.  Our  ancestors  used  to  be- 
lieve that  the  father  of  lies  appeared  to  them 
in  various  shapes,  as  a  goat,  or  hare,  or  black 
cat ;  had  they  lived  among  the  White  Moun- 
tains, they  would  have  embodied  him  in  a  mos- 
quito, or  midge,  or  black  fly. 

It  is  singular  what  a  small  aflair  will  bring 
you  tumbling  down  from  the  sublime  to  the 
ridiculous.  You  may  be  gazing  awe-struck  upon 
the  wonderful  beauties  of  the  Flume ;  grand 
and  poetic  thoughts  are  coursing  through  your 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


53 


,f  rock  which 
built  by  some 
ins  brook  be- 
ler  caught  be- 
directly  over 
High  a  breath 
11  conspire  to 
3  other  moun- 

s  serpent;  and 
:r  place  in  the 
lape  of  a   mos- 
rs   used   to  be- 
leared   to  them 
hare,  or  black 
White  Moun- 
him  in  a  mos- 

aftair  will  bring 
sublime  to  the 
awe-struck  upon 
Flume;  grand 
ng  through  your 


soul,  when,  suddenly,  a  mosquito  settles  upon 
the  end  of  your  nose,  or  a  midge  insinuates 
himself  into  the  back  of  your  neck ;  instantly 
the  sublime  and  beautiful  vunish,  the  bitten 
member  becomes  the  centre  of  sensation,  and 
fruitless  assaults  upon  the  offending  insect  take 
the  place  of  rapt  meditation  on  the  beauties  of 
Nature. 

This  is  one  of  the  ills  of  camp  life  which 
can't  be  cured,  and  so  must  be  endured  with 
the  best  grace  possible.  We  kill  a  hundred  of 
our  tormentors,  and  a  thousand  will  come  to 
the  funeral ;  we  smear  our  hands  and  faces  with 
kerosene  oil,  but,  while  it  gi-eatly  offends  our 
own  senses,  the  mosquitos  seem  to  prefer 
their  blood-puddings  flavored  with  petroleum. 
We  hear  all  sorts  of  herbs  and  unguents  recom- 
mended, and  apply  a  liberal  quantity  to  our 
devoted  features.  The  midges  are  attracted 
all  the  more,  and  revel  in  the  pennyroyal,  or 
catnip,  or  camphor,  as  though  the  odor  and 
flavor  were  as  agreeable  as  possible.  The 
only  thing  which  these  ubiquitous  insects  seem 


54 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


to  dislike  is  a  thick  smudge  of  black  sniokc ; 
aiul  as  this  can  easily  be  raised,  with  the  aid 
of  an  old  milk-pan  and  some  damp  chips,  we 
can  be  tolerably  free  from  these  mountain  pests 
at  the  expense  of  turning  ourselves  into  well- 
seasoned  hams. 

We  have  now  seen  the  principal  points  of 
interest  about  the  Franconia  Notch,  and,  if  we 
take  one  more  day  to  ascend  Mount  Lafayette, 
we  can  feel  that  we  have  "  done "  the  moun- 
tains quite  thoroughly. 

There  are  many  more  charming  places  to 
visit,  to  be  sure,  and  many  more  mountain 
peaks  to  scale,  among  which  wc  might  spend 
several  delightful  weeks ;  but  already  we  have 
seen  the  points  of  most  note,  and  a  great  deal 
more  than  many  of  those  who  spend  ten  times 
as  much  money  on  their  summer  vacation. 

Then,  if  we  arc  all  agreed  that  it  is  time  to 
start  for  home,  we  will  roll  up  our  blankets, 
slow  away  the  small  remnant  of  our  provisions 
in  the  hnrd  tack  barrel,  and,  with  a  cheer  for 
the  Summit  shanty  which  has  so  kindly  sheltered 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


SS 


ick  sn.oke ; 
kith  the  aid 
D  chips,  we 
iintaiu  pests 
into   well- 

al  points  of 
1,  and,  if  we 
nt  Lafayette, 
the   moun- 

ig  places    to 
re    mountain 

might  spend 
ady  we  have 

a  great  deal 
;nd  ten  times 

vacation. 

it  is  time  to 
our  blankets, 
)ur  provisions 
I  a  cheer  for 
ndly  sheltered 


us  for  the  past  few  days,  we  will  he  off  down 
the  mountain. 

Should  wc  wisli  to  vary  our  homeward  route, 
we  can  turn  to  the  south-west  instead  of  the 
south-cast.  In  this  case,  llic  first  camp  should 
be  in  LandalV,  anil  the  second  in  Haverhill, 
where  we  strike  the  Connecticut  River. 

Of  course,  if  any  of  the  party  are  utterly  dis- 
gusted with  "  roughing  it,"  they  can  here  take 
the  cars,  which,  for  a  few  dollars,  will  land 
them  near  their  homes.  But  if  the  vote  is  for 
camp  life  still,  as,  no  doubt,  it  will  be,  it  will 
be  found  that  no  part  of  the  trip  has  been 
pleasanter  than  this  journey  down  the  valley  of 
the  lovely  "  v.  illovv-fringed  Connecticut." 

Now  see  what  the  trip  has  cost  us,  and  never 
again  say  that  you  cannot  afford  to  go  to  the 
mountains. 

Horse  at  one  dollar  per  day  for  three 

weeks,  ....         $31.00 

Wagon, 5.CX3 

Hard  tack  and  other  provisions,  .  22.00 


i 


Tent  and  stove  hire, 
Feed  for  horse  on  the  way, 
Provisions  bought  on  the  way, 
Plates  and  cooking  utensils. 
Incidentals, 

Total,    .         .         • 


4.00 

12.00 

15.00 

3.00 

8.00 


$90.00 


This  sum,  divided  among  six  individuals, 
makes  each  one's  share  of  the  expenses  fifteen 
dollars,  for  a  three  weeks'  excursion  to  the 
White  Mountains. 


■ 


4.00 

I2.00 

15.00 

3.00 

8.00 

$90.00 

ndividunls, 
ises  fifteen 
on    to  the 


HOIV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


57 


CHAPTER  III. 

TO     CANADA.  —  MONTREAL.  —  QUEBEC.  —  OTTA- 
WA.—  RIVER   ST.   LAWRENCE. 

Ip  you  were  ever  a  small  boy,  and  if  at  that 
time  you  studied  common  school  geography,  you 
must  often  have  gazed  at  the  variegated  sections 
of  pigment  which  are  supposed  to  indicate  to  the 
youthful  mind  the  various  countries  of  Europe, 
and  wished  youiself  in  the  very  middle  of  those 
countries.  Do  you  remember  how  one  yel- 
low patch,  standing  for  England,  represented  to 
your  juvenile  imagination  the  great  Tower  of 
London,  and  the  British  Museum,  and  the  Tunnel 
under  the  Thames?  Do  you  remember  how  gay 
Paris,  with  its  Notre  Dame,  and  Tuileries,  and 
all  its  other  wonders,  whose  names  you  couldn't 
pronounce,  peeped  out  at  you  from  the  green 
section  which  was  bounded  by  the  Alps  and  the 


■**i'-ii.'w*!aa^^gw'B:-'!y  wp^.v-.-* 


58 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Pyrenees  ?  and  how  you  always  heard  the  great 
bell  of  Moscow  and  the  bi<j  guns  of  the  Krem- 
lin tiumdci  out  whenever  you  looked  at  that 
large  spot  of  blue  paint  called  Russia?  And  do 
you  remember  how  you  longed,  with  all  your 
heart  and  soul,  to  see  these  wonders  in  reality? 

If  any  boy  has  not  had  these  thoughts  and 
desires,  let  us  pity  his  unimaginative  little  soul, 
and  predict  for  him  that  future  which  people  so 
expressively  imply,  when  they  say,  "  He  is  a 
very  good  man,  but  he  will  never  set  the  river  on 
fire."  To  be  sure,  many  men  lose  their  desires 
for  travel  when  they  get  out  of  their  teens,  and 
would  not  exchange  their  walk  through  State 
Street  for  any  Boulevards  of  Paris  ;  but  there  are 
many  more  who  are  as  eager  to  visit  Europe  in 
manhood  as  when  they  first  dog-eared  their  ge- 
ography in  the  school-room,  but  who  are  kept 
at  home  by  the  thousand  leagues  of  brine  which 
roll  between  the  two  continents,  and  by  the  in- 
surmountable barrier  to  bridging  over  this  gulf 
which  a  lean  pocket-book  presents. 

To  all    such  Canada  invitingly   offers   itself. 


T 


the  great 
the  Krcm- 
d  at  that 
'     And  do 

I  all  your 

II  reality? 
Lights  and 
little  soul, 

people  so 
"  He  is  a 
he  river  on 
leir  desires 

teens,  and 
ough  State 
Lit  there  are 

Europe  in 
d  their  ge- 
lo  arc  kept 
)rine  which 
1  by  the  in- 
cr  this  gulf 

oflers   itself. 


HOJV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


59 


Here  are  France  and  England  combined  in  a 
small  way.  To  be  sure,  you  will  not  find  the 
Louvre  or  St.  Paul's,  and  the  ;patois  will  neither 
be  purely  Parisian  nor  thoroughly  Cockney  ;  but 
in  many  respects  you  will  see  very  good  repre- 
sentatives of  the  two  great  old  world  countries 
in  this  new  world  province.  For  instance,  when 
you  step  off  the  cars  at  Montreal,  you  will  notice 
that  the  streets  named  St.  Jean  and  St.  Pierre,  as 
well  as  St.  John  and  St.  Peter,  and  that  the  Rue 
Josephine  and  Notre  Dame  run  side  by  side 
with  Dorchester  and  Main  Streets. 

At  one  store  you  step  into,  you  will  get  per- 
fectly distracted  with  the  volley  of  French  sen- 
tences which  the  voluble  Celt  shoots  out  at  you, 
while  in  the  next  the  stout  John  Bull,  in  gray 
clothes  and  bushy  side-whiskers,  will  inform 
you,  perchance,  that  the  portrait  you  are  looking 
at  is  a  "  'andsome  picture  of  Prince  Harthur, 
done  hin  Hindia  hink." 

It  is  one  of  an  author's  privileges  to  take  it  for 
granted  that  his  readers  agree  with  him  in  all 
his  assumptions,  even  if  he  hasn't  attempted  to 


prove  them  very  conclusively;  therefore  it  is 
assumed,  without  arguing  the  point  any  farther, 
that  Canada  is  a  most  desirable  place  in  which 
to  spend  a  summer  vacation,  and  it  only  remains 
to  tell  how  and  for  what  expense  the  sights  of 
the  New  Dominion  can  be  seen. 

And  first  we  shall  want  to  purchase  a  round- 
trip  ticket  by  one  of  the  great  railroad  lines 
which  connect  Canada  with  the  United  States. 

The  price  of  these  tickets  varies  slightly  from 
year  to  year,  but  as  a  general  thing,  an  excursion 
ticket  can  be  bought  from  Boston  to  Montreal 
and  return  for  twenty  dollars,  and  to  Quebec  and 
return  for  twenty-two  dollars. 

Other  things  being  equal,  it  is  better  to  pur- 
chase tickets  by  way  of  the  Boston  and  Lowell 
and  the  Central  Vermont  railroads ;  as  by  this 
route  we  shall  be  sure  of  obliging  officials, 
smooth  road-beds,  and  easy-running  cars,  —  ad- 
vantages which  all  roads  cannot  boast,  by  any 
means.  But  of  course,  in  the  case  of  such  pov- 
erty-stricken persons  as  we  are  supposed  now  to 
%e,  a  few  jolts  and  jounces  more  or  less  do  not 


1 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


6i 


matter  niiicli  if  innny  dollars  can  be  saved  by 
enduring  thcni ;  so  we  sliall  go  by  tlie  line  which 
oflcrs   to  take   us  to  Montreal  the   cheapest. 

And  just  here,  before  stepping  aboard  the 
train,  a  few  words  in  advance  in  regard  to  the 
expense.  An  interesting  letter  from  Montreal, 
lately  published,  closed  by  saying  that  "  with 
due  economy  the  trip  might  be  taken  for  a  hun- 
dred dollars."  Wliy,  my  dear  sir,  with  due 
economy  the  trip  mf*y  be  taken  for  half  that 
sum  I 

But  do  you  say,  "  Then  must  we  be  close,  and 
count  every  copper,  and  live  in  a  mean  sort  of  a 
way  generally?"  By  no  means.  To  be  sure,  we 
cannot  indulge  in  a  great  many  game  suppers, 
or  cat  sandwiches  filled  with  bank  bills,  a  la 
Lord  Timothy  Dexter ;  but  the  routes  of  travel 
are  just  the  same,  the  rivers  just  as  broad,  the 
mountains  just  as  grand,  and  the  scenery  just  as 
novel  to  tlie  poor  man  as  to  the  rich.  The  ho- 
tels we  shall  stop  at  may  not  be  nearly  as  expen- 
sive, but  they  may  be  guaranteed  equal  in  solid 
comfort  to  those  which  our  rich  neighbors  pat- 
ronize. 


62 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


No  doubt  it  would  be  pleasant  to  scatter  the 
greenbacks  rijjht  and  left ;  to  buy  a  black  silk  for 
aunt  jane,  and  a  set  of  jewelry  for  Mary  Ann, 
and  a  whole  toy-shop  for  little  Joe,  —  in  short,  to 
have  no  care  or  anxiety  on  the  financial  score ; 
and  when  "  our  ship  comes  in,"  or  "  our  uncle 
from  India"  arrives,  wc  shall  doubtless  travel  in 
this  way;  but  until  the  hypothetical  uncle  or 
ship  actually  comes,  will  it  not  be  better  to  take 
a  cheap  excursion  than  to  have  no  summer 
vacation  at  all  ? 

Again  assuming  that  there  is  a  unanimous  vote 
in  agreement  with  these  sentiments,  we  will  step 
aboard  the  waiting  train  in  the  magnificent  new 
Lowell  Railroad  station.  The  clock  points  to  the 
hour  of  starting,  the  conductor  shouts,  "All 
aboard  ! "  and  ofl'  we  are. 

By  the  spindle  cities  of  Lowell,  Nashua,  and 
Manchester  we  roll,  beside  the  busy  Merrimac, 
picturesque  and  lovely  still,  though  it  is  defiled 
by  so  many  mill-whccls,  and  regarded  by  so 
many  sordid  eyes  as  only  so  much  "  water- 
power." 


1 


IfOiV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


63 


alter  the 

<  silk  for 

ary  Aim, 

1  short,  to 

al  score ; 

)iir  uncle 

travel  in 

uncle  or 

er  to  take 

)  summer 

mous  vote 
L"  will  step 
ficcnt  new 
lints  to  tiic 
uts,   "All 

ishua,  and 
Mcrrimac, 
is  defiled 
led  by  so 
1   "  water- 


Throiigh  New  Hampshire's  capital,  on  and 
on,  we  are  whirled,  ihroiigli  tiic  heart  of  tlic 
Granite  State,  catchinjj  many  glimpses  of  far- 
away mountains,  green  v  illcys,  and  white  vil- 
lages ;  and  a  little  after  noon  wo  cross  the  Con- 
necticut, and  make  our  first  stop  of  any  length 
at  White  River  Junction,  Vermont.  "  Half  an 
hour  for  dinner,"  and  then  we  again  take  our 
seats  in  the  cars  for  a  rjdc  through  the  green 
hills  of  stanch  Vermont.  The  scenery  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Watcrbury  and  Montpclicr  is 
particularly  striking,  and  we  shall  be  tempted  to 
stop  there  instead  of  proceeding. 

By  supper  time  we  shall  reach  St.  Albans  ;  and 
no  one  knows  better  how  to  supply  our  gastro- 
nomic wants  than  Mr.  Duntou,  whose  gong  will 
call  us  to  his  attractive  dining-room  in  the  station. 

Montreal  is  less  than  three  hours'  ride  fartlier 
on,  most  of  it  over  Canadian  soil,  —  and  a  most 
flat,  uninteresting  ride  it  is.  The  monotony 
is  broken,  however,  Ijy  the  flourisliing  village  of 
St.  John,  with  its  big  river  and  numerous  vessels  ; 
and  soon  the  green  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence 


64 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


heave  in  sight  (as  we  should  say,  were  this  a 
nautical  novel),  as  well  as  that  masterpiece  of 
britigc-buiUling  which  spans  it. 

During  the  ten  «lark  minutes  which  arc  occu* 
pied  in  crossing  the  Victoria  Bridge,  there  is 
time  to  call  to  mind  all  the  dark-tuimel  stories, 
tragic  anc'  comic,  which  a  thorough  acquaint- 
ance with  railroad  literature  will  supply.  We 
are  so  near  our  destination,  too,  that  it  is  time  to 
think  of  what  hotel  we  shall  make  our  head- 
quarters while  in  the  city ;  for  as  the  principal 
choice,  in  Canadian  cities,  between  first  and  sec- 
ond class  hotels,  is  in  the  number  of  dollars  per 
dief"  we  .Lili  be  obliged  to  pay,  it  will  be  well 
to  know  beforehand  how  much  our  bill  will  be. 

St,  T  aw'.^nct  *  'all  is  the  highest  priced  house, 
and  next  comes  the  Ottawa  Hotel,  pleasantly 
situated  on  St.  James  Street.  The  price  of 
either  of  these  houses  would  justify  the  name 
"  first  clas>-,"  though  the  accommodations  would 
hardly  substantiate  the  claim  ;  at  least,  according 
to  "American"  notions. 

And  here  we  must  rise  to  euplaiu,  that  Cana- 


%  -m..  -^ 


//O^y   TO  luXJOV  THEM. 


65 


:rc  this  a 
rpiccc  of 

are  occu* 
there    is 
el  stories, 
acquaint- 
ply.     We 
is  time  to 
our   head- 
;  principal 
it  and  sec- 
lollars  per 
ill  be  well 
1  will  be. 
ced  house, 
pleasantly 
price   of 
the   name 
ons  would 
,  according 

that  Cana- 


dians universally  denominate  their  cousins  of 
the  Slates  '•  Americans,"  as  distinguished  from 
natives  of  the  Dominion  ;  as  thougii  they  them- 
selves lived  in  Malacca  or  Van  Diemen's  Land, 
or  anywhere,  indeed,  but  in  America.  But  to 
return  to  the  subject  of  hotels.  Almost  equal 
in  other  respects  to  those  we  iiavc  mentioned, 
and  with  charges  about  half  as  great,  is  another 
class  of  pulilic  liouscs,  siich  as  the  Albion, 
Montreal,  and  Recollct ;  the  Albion  is  as  good 
as  any,  and  guests  of  this  house  will  probably 
be  dissatisfied  neither  witii  the  accommodations 
nor  with  the  price. 

Montreal,  thougli  a  pleasant  city,  is  not  one 
in  whicii  we  shall  care  to  linger  a  great  while, 
for  the  veiy  reason  that  we  shall  here  find  little 
that  is  novel  and  strange  to  01  u-  eyes,  accustomed 
to  New  England  cities.  Montreal  is  simply 
an  undersized  Boston.  Tlie  streets  here,  to 
be  sure,  are  not  so  well  paved  as  in  the  "  Hub," 
neither  are  there  as  niany  fine  residences  and 
business  houses,  nor  are  the  sidewalks  as 
crowded   as  in   our  "  modern  Athens ;  "  but  the 


66 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


same  spirit  of  commerce  and  business  enterprise, 
which  gives  hfo  to  our  own  cities,  has  touched 
this   Canadian   metropolis  a^  well;    the  quaint 
French  element  is  nearly  swallowed  up  in  the 
bustling,  busy  Anglo-Saxon,  and  very  creditably 
might  Montreal  pass  for  a  half-grown  Boston, 
and    St.    James    Street    or  Notre  Dame   for   a 
juvenile   Washington  Street  or   Trcmont    Row. 
There  are  just  four  sights,  and  only  four,  as  far 
as  we  have  been  able  t3  learn,  which  are  par- 
ticularly  worth  visiting,  nanielv :    The   French 
Cathedral    (Notre    Dame),   the  Jesuit    Church, 
the    Gray   Nunnery,   and    Mount    Royal,    with 
the    ride   aronnd    it. 

The  first  of  these  'attractions  is  certainly  a 
majestic  building ;  it  is  one,  too,  whose  great- 
ness grows  upon  you  the  more  you  look  upon 
its  massive  towers,  and  gaze  down  its  long  aisles. 
Always  ope!i  is  this  great  church  (like  all  the 
Cadiolic  churches),  and  always  is  there  a 
stream  of  humanity  pouring  through  it,  now 
stopping  hero  to  touch  the  precious  (dirty) 
holy  water,  now  there  to  bow  before  some  cru- 


s  enterprise, 
has  touched 
the  qiuunt 
J   up  in  the 
ry  creditably 
nvn  Boston, 
Dame   for   a 
iinont   Row. 
1  four,  as  far 
lich  are  par- 

The   French 
iuit    Church, 

Royal,    with 

s  certainly  a 
whose  great- 
ou  look  upon 
its  long  aisles, 
(like  all  the 
is  there  a 
3ugh  it,  now 
.'cious  (dirty) 
"ore  some  cru- 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


67 


cifix  or  image,  and  again  to  kneel  at  some  sacred 
shrine. 

"  The  largest  church  in  America,  holding 
ten  thousand  people,"  says  our  veracious  guide- 
book, speaking  of  this  church,  both  of  which 
statements  we  should  be  very  much  inclined  to 
doubt,  were  it  allowable  for  a  traveller  to  doubt 
bis  guide-book. 

Bnt''i'io  disputing  the  umpire,"  as  the  rule 
is  in  base  ball ;  so  "  No  doubting  thr  guide- 
book" must  oftentimes  be  our  rule  in  travel- 
ling, since  no  higher  authority  presents  itself  by 
way  of  verification.  But  it  is  not  the  long,  dim 
aisles,  nor  the  burning  candles  and  swinging 
censers,  nor  yet  the  saints  in  blue  and  gold, 
which  make  one  or  two  hours  spent  in  tlie 
great  cathedral  so  attractive ;  but  it  is  the  liv- 
ing stream  before   alluded  to. 

Here  comes  a  day  laborer  in  his  blue  blouse, 
and  brick-dust  overalls ;  close  behind  him  fol- 
lows a  richly-dressed  young  lady,  evidently 
from  the  "  upper  ten"  of  French  society.  Tiiere 
sits  a  pale,  faded,  weary-looking  woman,  such 


I 


68 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


a  one  as  we  always  imagine  in  a  close,  attic 
room,  witii  an  interminable  pile  of  plain  sew- 
ing beside  her.  Not  far  from  her,  perhaps, 
sits  a  fat,  jolly  market  woman,  with  W\\\  and 
laughter  gleaming  out  of  her  dark  French 
eyes,  thorgh  she  is  counting  iier  beads  so  de- 
voutly. Here  and  there  a  sleek,  black-robed 
priest  is  gliding  silently  about,  waving  his  in- 
cense, or  praying  with  clasped  hands  for  some 
departed  soul,  who  was  so  stout  a  sinner  dur- 
ing his  lifetime  that  he  needs  an  additional 
paternoster  now  to  free  him  from  purgatory. 

Yet  all  alike,  priest  and  people,  saint  and 
sinner,  rich  and  poor,  seem  to  \vorship  with 
reverence  and  humility ;  all  cross  themselves 
devoutly  at  the  same  spot,  and  all  seem  to  have 
come  in  from  some  otiier  motive  than  curiosity, 
or  to  see  tiie  fashions.  On  our  way  out  we 
shall  be  solicited  to  go  up  into  one  of  the 
great  towers  of  the  catiiedral  wiiich  mark  its 
resemblance  to  its  namesake  in  Paris.  The 
magnificent  view  of  the  city  which  we  obtain 
from   the   top  of  the  tower   is  well    worth  the 


ise,   nttic 
ain   sew- 
perhaps, 
fvn\  and 
c   French 
Is   so  de- 
ack-robed 
ig  his  in- 
fer some 
liner  dur- 
additional 
•gatory. 
saint   and 
ship    with 
heniselvcs 
1   to  have 
curiosity, 
y    out   we 
ic    of    the 
mark   its 
ris.      The 
we  obtain 
worth  the 


I/O  IV   TO   ENJOY  THEM. 


69 


twenty-five  cents,  which  \vc  arc  charged  for  an 
entrance  fee,  to  say  nothing  of  a  sight  of  the  great 
bell,  which  is  said,  and  probably  with  truth,  to 
be  the  largest  in  the  new  world.  This  mon- 
strous bell  weighs  thirty  thousand  pounds,  and 
to  be  once  thrilled  by  its  thunderous  bass  tones 
is  almost  enough  of  itself  to  repay  a  visit  to 
Montreal. 

The  church  of  the  Jesuits,  though  smaller  and 
far  less  imposing  outside  than  Notre  Dame,  is 
incomparably   more  beautiful  within. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  are  covered  with 
frescoes  representing  events  in  the  life  of  Christ 
and  his  apostles ;  and  though  we  have  heard 
would-be  artists  complain,  in  a  hypercritical 
way,  that  these  frescoes  were  mere  daubs, 
scarce  worthy  of  a  glance,  yet  for  me  and  the 
great  majority  of  ordinary  travellers  whom 
we  represent,  these  "daubs  vill  appear  true 
works  of  art,  and  the  church  wliich  contains 
them,  with  its  paintings  and  frescoes,  and 
brilliant  windows,  and  numerous  confessionals, 
is  a  wonderful  church  indeed. 


70 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


The  Gray  Nunnery  is  the  next  place  we  will 
visit,  and  we  must  time  it  so  as  to  reach  the  con- 
vent about  noon,  for  tlien  the  sisters  will  all  be 
assembled  in  the  chapel,  and  we  shall  have  a 
better  chance  to  peep  into  their  meek  faces,  hid- 
den away  back  in  their  stifl"  and  spotless  hoods, 
and  to  see  their  forms  of  worship,  than  at  any 
other  time. 

Everything  about  the  nunnery  is  immaculately 
neat  and  nice,  and  in  the  uniforms  of  gray  we 
discover  many  sweet,  spiritual  faces,  which 
contrast  favorably  with  the  coarse  features  of  the 
priests,  many  of  whom,  evidently,  do  not  consider 
high  living  and  good  cheer  incompatible  with 
their  sacred  office.  Still,  as  we  leave  the  convent, 
a  feeling  of  relief  comes  over  us,  as  though  we 
had  escaped  from  a  chilling  prison  ah- ;  and  we 
are  more  convinced  than  ever  tiiat  one  good 
home  fireside,  with  the  love  and  happiness  which 
cluster  around  it,  is  worth  more  than  the  sanctity 
of  all  the  convents  and  nunneries  in  the  world. 

By    "  the    mountain,"   in  Montreal,  is    meant 
Mount   Royal,  a   sizable   hill    behind   the   city, 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


7» 


e  wc  will 
the  con- 
|ill  all  be 
11  have  a 
faces,  hid- 
;ss  hoods, 
m  at  any 

naculatcly 
f  gray  we 
!s,  which 
lies  of  the 
Jt  consider 
itible  with 
e  convent, 
hough  we 
■;  and  we 
one  good 
less  which 
le  sanctity 
!  world, 
is  meant 
the   city, 


which,  clothed  with  foliage  to  its  very  top,  forms 
a  fine  background  for  the  city  to  which  it  gave  a 
name. 

A  ride  around  "  the  mountain "  we  bliall 
doubtless  desire  to  take  ;  and  then,  when  we  have 
spent  half  a  day  in  walking  about  the  streets, 
admiring  the  few  fine  buildings  of  which  Mont- 
real is  justly  proud,  gazing  at  the  beautiful 
bronze  statue  of  the  queen,  and  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  John  Bull  faces  which  we 
meet,  we  shall  be  ready  to  step  on  board  one  of 
the  fine  steamers  of  the  Richelieu  Company  for 
Qiiebec.  For  those  who  have  not  a  round  trip 
ticket,  the  fare  will  be  three  dollars  and  fifty  cents, 
meals  and  berths  seventy-five  cents  each,  extra. 
The  boats  run  only  in  the  night,  and  there  will 
naturally  be  a  feeling  of  disappointment,  at  first, 
at  the  thought  of  sailing  through  this  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles  of  St.  Lawrence  scenery  under 
cover  of  darkness ;  but  a  glance  at  the  monotony 
of  the  low,  wooded  shores,  which  stretch  all  the 
way  between  these  two  Canadian  cities,  will  rec- 
oncile us  to  the  comfortable  night  which  we  shall 


72 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


pass  hi  tlie  state-rooms  of  tlie  "  Qiiebec "  or 
"  Montreal." 

Early  the  next  morning  tlie  whistle  will  sound 
our  approach  to  the  walled  city  of  America  ;  and 
going  on  deck,  we  find  ourselves  at  the  foot  of  a 
precipice,  on  the  top  of  which  are  perched  houses, 
and  walls,  and  churches,  and  fortifications,  all 
huddled  together,  as  though  the  heavens  had 
opened,  some  fine  morning,  and  dropped  a  city 
all  ready  made  upon  this  barren  rock. 

As  we  step  oft'  the  boat  and  into  the  street, 
empty  and  silent  as  yet,  it  is  so  early,  we  feel 
almost  awestruck,  and  half  imagine  that  this  is 
an  enchanted  city,  sleeping  through  its  century, 
until  some  Prince  Perfect  shall  break  the  spell. 
Our  fancy  is  not  so  far  from  the  truth  either,  for 
the  dull  old  city  might  as  well  be  asleep,  so  little 
does  it  improve  or  change  from  year  to  year. 

Prince  Perfect,  frequently  arrives,  however,  in 
the  shape  of  a  rich  American  ;  and  then  the  whole 
city  is  roused  from  its  lethargy,  and  sets  system- 
atically to  work  to  fleece  him.  And  a  Col- 
chian  fleece  they  generally  find  he  yields. 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


73 


In  fact,  this  gouging  of  Americans  has  been 
reduced  to  a  science  in  Qiicbec.  We  go  into  a 
store  for  a  pair  of  gloves.  The  polite  clerk  will 
pocket  our  two  dollars  without  remorse,  while 
for  the  very  same  article  he  would  not  think  of 
charging    his  Canuck  customer  more  than  half 

that  price. 

The  St.  Louis  Hotel,  the  only  first-rate  one  in 
the  city,  will  coolly  charge  us  three  dollars  and 
fifty  cents  a  day,  and  the  Canadian  who  came  on 
the  same  boat  with  us  it  will  charge  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents  or  two  dollars. 

For  this  reason  we  will  not  stop  at  the  St. 
Louis,  but  patronize  Henchy's,  a  much  less  pre- 
tentious house,  which  charges  only  one  dollar 
and  fifty  cents  fer  diem. 

A  good  breakfast  will  best  prepare  us  for  a 
day  of  sight-seeing,  and  before  we  go  out  we 
will  ask  our  landlord  what  are  the  principal 
sights  of  the  city. 

"  The  Citadel,  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  the 
Falls  of  Montmorenci."  he  will  undoubtedly 
reply. 


74 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Next   wc  accost    an    Irishmen  with  the   same 

question. 

"Can  you  tell  us  the  most  interesting  places 

to  visit  about  the  city?" 

•'  Sure,  an'  I  can.  It's  the  Citidil,  an'  the  Plains 
of  Abraham,  and  Montmoreuci,  that  ye  want  to 

say." 

To   a   Frenchman,    pe;haps,  we  next  address 

the  same  interrogation. 

"  Monsieur  would  know  ze  chef  places  of  in- 
tereest.  Trcs  bicn.  He  moost  visete  ze  Plains 
of  Abraham,  and  ze  Ceotadel,  — ah,  ze  Ceetadel 
and  ze  Falls  of  Montmorenci." 

So  we  conclude  to  visit  the  Citadel,  the  Heights 
of  Abraham,  and  Montmorenci  Falls,  and  to  ask 
no  more  questions,  since  they  seem  to  afford  us 
no  additional  scrap  of  information. 

But,  after  all,  these  siglits,  ihough  necessarily 
most  written  and  spoken  about,  are  not  what 
best  repay  us  for  visiting  Qiiebec. 

It  is  the  indescribable  air  of  quaintness,  an- 
tiquity, and  foreignncss  which  most  attracts  us  — 
the  solemn   stone    houses,  the    steep  roofs,  and 


the   same 

ing  places 

the  Plains 
'e  want  to 

ixt  address 

aces  of  in- 
.'  ze  Plains 
e  Cectadel 

he  Heights 
and  to  ask 
0  afford  us 

necessarily 
e  not  what 

intness,  an- 

ttracts  us  — 

roofs,  and 


precipitous  streets,  rising  tier  upon  tier  above 
each  other,  in  a  line  so  nearly  perpendicular, 
that  from  one  sidewalk  you  can  look  straight 
down  the  chimneys  of  the  houses  on  the  street 
below  you.  Then  we  are  interested  in  the  sur- 
rounding wall  of  masonry,  which  every  now  and 
then  bounds  our  street,  and  which  links  this 
only  walled  city  of  America  to  the  mediaival 
towns  of  another  continent ;  and  all  these  sights 
conspire  to  remove  us  in  spirit  four  thousand 
miles  to  the  east   and   four  hundred   years  into 

the  past. 

Here,  too,  the  people  are  different  from  any 
we  have  met  before.  Unlike  Montreal  and  other 
cities  of  the  Dominion,  the  French  element 
largely  predomini' .  :;s. 

John  Smith   must  here   announce  himself  as 
"  Advocate  "  on  one  side  of  his  office  door,  and 
'"  Avocat"  on  the  other. 

"  Traverse  de  Chemin  "  stares  at  us  from  the 
railroad  crossings ;  and  we  see  many  old  friends 
in  new  dresses  posted  on  the  fences  and  walls. 


76 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


For  instance,  even  if  our  French  is  rather  rusty, 
wc  are  not  slow  iu  recognizing  "  Pastilles  Bron- 
chales  dc  Brown,"  or  "  Rciiieclies  Rapide  de 
Radway." 

But  while  we  are  making  all  these  observa- 
tions, wise  und  otherwise,  we  may  as  well  be  on 
our  way  'o  some  point  of  special  interest,  which 
in  the  fii  f  place  will  undoubtedly  be  "the 
Citadel." 

'Numerous  harknien  arc  certain  to  be  in  wait- 
ing, as  we  emerge  from  the  hotel,  each  urging 
the  claims  of  his  particular  veiiicle  upon  our 
notice,  in  a  most  persistent  and  obstreperous  man- 
ner ;  but  we  shall  resist  their  iin|K)rtunity  if  we 
are  wise,  for  the  short  walk  which  will  take  us 
to  all  the  historic  points  about  the  city,  will  be 
pleasanter  than  a  ride  this  bright  morning,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  three  (ioUars  and  fifty  cents  which 
we  shall  save  thereby. 

Perhaps  we  should  Iiere  say,  that  the  hackmcn 
will  try  hard  to  make  us  believe  that  tlicre  are  a 
dozen  places  we  want  to  visit  in  Qiiebec,  and 
will  supply  us  with  printed  lists  of  these  places. 


ther  nisty^ 
illcs  Bron- 
Rupide  de 

e  observa- 
wcll  be  on 
est,  which 
■   be   "the 

30  in  wait- 
ch  urging 
upon  our 
erous  nian- 
iiiity  if  we 
ill  take  us 
ty,  will  be 
ing,  to  say 
ents  which 

:  hackmen 
licre  are  a 
icbec,  and 
Bse  places. 


Hut  several  of  these  are  Catholic  churches, 
which  arc  simply  imitatioub  of  Montreal  cathe- 
drals, on  a  much  smaller  and  poorer  scale.  Still 
there  are  one  or  two  other  baltlc-helds  and 
historic  points,  which >-  shall  like  to  visit  before 
leaving  the  city. 

OiK' card,  whicli  .  n  importunate  hackman  is 
perhaps  still  distribiiung  to  visitors,  pathetically 
referred  to  the  spot  "where  Montgomery  was 
laid  out." 

Whether  this  designated  the  place  where  the 
brave  general  was  prepaiid  for  burial,  or  was  a 
slang  expression  to  denote  the  defeat  of  the 
Americans,  under  General  Montgomery,  in  1776, 
is  a  matter  of  conjecture  ;  yet  the  former  expla- 
nation is  the  more  likely,  since  it  is  not  easy  to 
believe  that  a  joke  ever  found  its  way  into  or  out 
of  the  head  of  a  Qiicbcc  hackman. 

The  Citadel  is  only  about  half  a  mile  from  our 
hotel,  in  a  south-wuslerly  direction.  Through  a 
long,  winding  way  we  walk,  walled  in  on  both 
sides  by  high,  massive,  granite  fortifications, 
while  here  and  there  we  see  tomb-like  iron  doors 


i 


78 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


opctiiiiR  into  the  bank,  wliicli  are  the  entrances  to 
the  bomb-proof  magazines. 

Dy  and  by  we  come  to  the  arched  gate-way  of 
the  Citadel ;  and  here,  if  we  ask  permission  to  see 
the  fortress,  tlie  red-coated  sentry  will  send  an- 
other red-coat  to  show  us  .liraut  the  grounds.  A 
half"  hour  spent  in  wandering  over  die  Citadel 
will  give  one  a  vi  ry  good  idea  of  "  the  terrible 
enginery  of  war."     Everything  looks  belligerent 

the  massive  walls,  built  to  withstand  a  tliousand 

bombs,  the  pyramidal  piles  of  bulls  and  shells, 
the  glistening  stacks  cf  arms,  and,  above  all,  the 
great  guns.  Just  now,  it  is  true,  they  are  bask- 
ing their  huge  black  bodies  in  the  morning  sun, 
peacefully  enough  ;  but  it  is  evident  that  at  any 
monieut  they  are  ready  to  belch  out  destruction 
from  a  hundred  griiming  mouths  upon  any  hos- 
tile vessel  which  might  attempt  the  passage  of 
the  river. 

The  view  from  the  parapet  is  superb.  On  the 
riciit  is  Point  Levis,  with  its  fortifications,  ready 
to  aid    the  Citadel   iu  its  deadly  work.     On  the 


left   stretch  the  gently-rounded  Beauport  Hills; 


iitraiiccs  tu 

a  to- way  of 
»8i()ti  to  sec 
II  send  aii- 
oumls.  A 
the  Citadel 
he  terrible 
belligerent 
a  thousand 
and  shells, 
ovc  all,  the 
y  arc  bask- 
irnhig  sun, 
that  at  any 
destruction 
ju  any  lios- 
passage  of 

lb.  On  the 
:ions,  ready 
k.  On  the 
iport  Hills ; 


11 


y/f/r    TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


79 


far  away  in  the  blue  distance,  and  nearer  ut  hand 
as  well,  the  St.  Charles  v  oiues  winding  slowly 
down  to  M-.oet  tiie  St.  Lawrence;  while  directly 
beneath  our  feet  lies  the  sleepy  old  city,  which, 
encircled  by  its  zigzag  wall,  looks  as  thougli  it 
might  have  remained  unaltered  '  ince  the  day 
when  Charlevoix  fust  landed  on  the  i  .mks  of  the 
St.  Charles,  mure  than  two  and  a  half  centuries 

ago. 

Our  soldier-guide  will  point  out,  among  the 
otlur  prison  like  structures  of  the  upper  town, 
the  old  Parliament  Buildings  autl  Laval  Uni- 
versity ;  and  we  shall  notii  e  the  piles  of  lum- 
ber, and  innumerable  rat\s,  vviiich  give  quite  an 
air  of  life  and  activity  to  tltc  lower  town. 

In  former  years  a  very  luige  garrison  was  sta- 
lioned  at  Qiiebec  ;  but  gr:uiu;i!'  ''.  troops  have 
been  withdrawn,  until  w  -v  out  v  y..^\^  undred  and 
sixty  red-eoats  guuvd  tu     *Ji.  ^i. 

A  walk  of  a  i..:ie  *■  rt  >.  r  txv.  the  fortress 
brings  us  to  hi  ■  >  ->■'  '  ■'•  these  level, 
green  cow-pastures,  which  bu.  round  uu  after  we 


pass   the    toll-gate,    are    none    other    than    the 
far-famed  "  Plains  of  Abraham." 

On  the  left  hand  side  of  the  road  is  Wolfe's 
monument,  with  this  grandly  simple  inscription, 
in  memory  of  the  hero  who  sleeps  beneath :  — 

HERE   DIED 
WOLFE 

VICTORIOUS 
SEPT    13TH   1759 

Very  strongly  does  this  battle-ground  impress 
us,  since  man  has  encroached  but  little  upon 
nature,  and  we  look  upon  the  same  scenes  that 
saw  the  hostile  armies  of  i''rance  and  England 
marshalled  against  each  other  a  hundred  years 
ago  and  more. 

Here  are  the  same  steep,  slippery  banks  of 
clay  which  the  British  army  fc-nid  it  so  difficult 
to  scale  ;  the  same  dark  forest  ii  the  background, 
stretching  ofl"  indefinitely  towards  the  west,  and 
the  same  green  pastures  that  then  drank  the 
blood  of  Celt  and  Saxon. 


mi- 


r 


than    the 

is  Wolfe's 
iscription, 
jneath :  — 


id  impress 
little  upon 
scenes  that 
d  England 
died  years 

f  banks    of 

so  difficult 

ackground, 

;  west,  and 

drank  the 


HO  IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


8l 


Now  is  made  clear  the  wisdom    of  not  yield- 
ing to  the  blandishments  of  the  hackmen,  who 
wished    to  "  show  the  sights."     What  pleasure 
would  there  be  in  visiting  these   historic  heights 
in  the  company  of  a  human  parrot   jabbering 
away    in   broken   English   the   story   which    all 
learned   in  their  school-days  ?     How  could  one 
grow  heroic  in  soul,  thinking  of  the  two  great  com- 
manders who,  just  here,  where  we  are  standing, 
fought  so  bravely  and  died  so  nobly,  when   all 
the  time  an  eternal  French  tongue   is  sounding 
the  well-learned  story  of   their  praise   in   one's 
ears!      No!     No!      Let  us  have   no  guides  or 
hackmen   about   us  at  such  a  place. 

In  the  heart  of  the  city  stands  a  granite  shaft, 
inscribes  on  one  side  with  the  name  of  Mont- 
calm ;  on  the  other  with  that  of  Wolfe.  Thus 
most  appropriately  has  a  single  monument  been 
ererted  to  the  two  hostile  generals,  whose  equal 
courage,  patriotism,  and  skill  deserve  the  same 
memorial.  The  inscription  on  the  monument 
reads,  — 


82 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


MORTEM.  VIRTVS.  COMMVNEM. 

FAMAM.    HISTORIA 
MONVMENTVM.    POSTERITAS. 
DEDIT.* 
To  vary  our  route  back  to  the  city,  we  can  cut 
across  the  fields  to  the  St.  Foy  road,  which  runs 
parallel  with  the  St.  Louis,  by  which   we  came 

out. 

About  a  mile  from  the  city,  on  the  St.  Foy 
road,  is  an  iron  piUar,  surmounted  by  a  bronze 
statuCi  raised  to  commemorate  the  resting-place 
of  a  number  of  French  soldiers,  whose  bones,  a 
few  years  ago,  were  collected  and  placed  beneath 
this'  monument. 

Now  we  have  seen  two  of  the  lions  of  Qiie- 
bec  ;  but  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci  remain  to  be 
visited,  before  we  can  conscientiously  say,  "  Veni, 
vidi."  These  famous  falls  arc  eight  miles  from 
the  city  ;  and  the  best  way  of  getting  tlicre  is  by 
chartering   one   of  the   strange-looking   vehicles 

♦  Their  valor  caused  their  death;  History  gave  them 
equal  renown;  Posterity  a  monument. 


gOBMl 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


83 


M. 


ve  can  cut 

rhich  runs 

we  came 

he  St.  Foy 
y  a  bronze 
sting-place 
se  bones,  a 
ed  beneath 

:is  of  Qiie- 
mnin  to  be 
say,  "Veni, 
miles  from 
tliere  is  by 
ng   Vehicles 

rv  gave  them 


called  calashes.  The  driver  will  charge  us  a  dol- 
lar and  a  half  for  the  ride  to  the  falls,  if  wc  make 
a  bargain  with  him  in  advance,  and  the  novel  sen- 
sation of  a  calash-ride  will  be  fully  worth  the 
money,  to   say  nothing  of  the  waterfall  for  which 

we  are  bound. 

To  vary  a  well-known  apothegm,  "Show 
me  the  carriages  of  a  people,  and  I  will  tell  you 
of  their  civilization."  The  calash,  used  no- 
where in  America  except  in  Qiiebec,  shows 
plainly  that  the  old  city  has  dropped  behind  the 
rest  of  the  world  a  hundred  years,  and  still 
belongs  to  the  eighteenth  century.  This  anti- 
quated vehicle  has  two  wheels,  which  make  up 
in  size  for  any  lack  in  number,  and  two  seats, 
one  narrow  one  for  the  driver  in  front,  and 
another  one  behind,  broader,  and  very  high,  for 
the  passengers. 

With  a  hop,  skip,  and  jump  we  manage  to 
reacJi  our  elevated  perch  behind  the  driver. 
The  person  who  has  never  been  in  one  before,  at 
first  holds  on  to  the  sides  for  dear  life,  imagining 
that  he  is  riding  on  a  camel's  hump,  or  up  in  a 


VMM 


balloon,  or  anywhere,  indeed,  but  in  ii  sober,  old- 
fasliioncd  carriage,  much  more  antiquated  than 
the  deacon's  one-liorse  shay.  But  after  being 
bounced  and  jolted  safely  through  a  hundred 
mud-holes,  with  which  the  wretched  streets  of 
Qiiebcc  are  filled,  he  begins  to  g.iin  confidence, 
and  quite  to  enjoy  his  c'.eviited  position.  The 
raw-boned  nag  shows  his  best  paces  under  a  vig- 
orous application  oi"  the  drivc^r's  whip,  and  we 
bounce  out  of  the  city,  and  over  the  substantial 
bridge  which  spans  the  St.  Charles,  in  qaite  a 
lively  manner. 

The  country  all  along  the  route  seems  very 
fe'-tile  and  well  cultivated,  while  the  scenery  is 
magnificent.  On  one  side  rise  the  lovely  hills 
of  Beauport,  on  the  other  rolls  the  broad,  irre- 
Pistible  current  of  the  great  river.  Occasionally 
the  French  driver,  if  we  a'c  so  unfortunate  as  to 
have  one,  ventures  an  unintelligible  remark  of 
explanation,  and  we  return  a  grunt  that  is  meant 
to  be  appreciative  ;  but,  on  the  who!  ,•,  efibrts  at 
conversation  with  him  are  failures,  and  we  soon 
relapse  into  complete  silence. 


jbcr,  old- 
Ucd  than 
tcr  being 
himdred 
streets  of 
Mifidence, 
on.  The 
der  a  vig- 
p,  and  we 
ubstantial 
11  •,)uite  a 

lerns  very 
scenery  is 
^vely  hills 
ri)ad,  irre- 
ca.^ionally 
uiatc  as  to 
emnrk  of 
t  is  meant 
efforts  at 
d  we  soon 


'H 


f 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


85 


This  is  not  wholly  a  misfortune,  however ;  for 
there  is  plenty  to  interest  and  amuse  by  the  road- 
side—the  queer  little  stone  cottages,  with  steep 
roofs  turned  up  near  the  eaves  ;  the  gaudy  little 
churches,  evidently  the  objects  of  much  respect 
and  veneration  ;  the  crosses  and  crucifixes  by  the 
roadside  ;  the  women  in  the  fields  working  out  a 
practical  solution  of  the  woman's  rights  question, 
while  their  husbands,  lo?ifiug  quietly  at  home,  sit 
on  their  doorstops,  engaged  in  the  arduous  duty 
of  smoking  dirty  clay  pipes. 

Indeed,  the  women  here  seem  to  do  all  the 
work,  from  tending  the  baby  to  ploughing  the 
cornfield;  and  of  the  hundred  field  laborers 
whom  we  shall  see  between  Qiiebec  and  Mont- 
morenci,  probably  nine  tenths  of  them  will  be 
brawny  Amazons. 

Another  thing  which  will  nillke  the  stranger 
as  singular  will  be  the  great  number  of  beggars 
of  all  ages  and  descriptions.  The  aptitude  of  the 
Latin  races  for  begging  is  wonderful.  With 
them  anything  which  will  excite  the  sympatljy 
pf  a  stranger  is  invaluable. 


86 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


A  club  foot  or  hunch  back  is  a  fortune  in  itself, 
while  a  wooden  leg  or  a  blind  eye  is  just  so  much 
stock  in  trade. 

From  a  dozen  houses  along  the  road,  little  girls 
will  emerge  with  a  glass  of  water  in  one  hand 
and  a  worthless  bouquet  of  dandelions  and  white- 
weed  in  the  other,  hoping  that  we  shall  drink  the 
water,  and  then  feel  obliged  to  buy  the  bouquet 
with  a  ninepence  or  a  shilling.  Little  boys  will 
run  before  the  calash  for  rods,  holding  out 
chubby  hands  in  a  beseeching  manner,  while 
stout  men  will  sit  in  their  doorways,  and  present 
their  hats,  as  we  ride  by,  with  the  most  perfect 
»  sick-wifc-and-seven-fatherless-children  "  expres- 
sioo  on  their  faces  that  was  ever  invented. 

Aftci-  about  an  hour's  ride,  our  calash  will 
draw  up  in  front  of  one  of  the  French  cottages, 
and  after  registering  our  names  within,  a  small 
boy  will  be  sent  to  show  us  the  falls. 

Not  that  a  small  boy  is  at  all  necessary  ;  on  the 
other  hand,  he  is  a  decided  nuisance,  since  he 
speaks  nothing  but  French,  and  our  attempts  to 
find  out  the  height  of  the  falls,  or  the  length  of  the 


pc  ill  itself, 
St  so  much 

little  girls 

one  hand 

and  white- 

1  drink  the 

le  bouquet 

c  boys  will 

Dldin<j    out 

ner,    while 

nd  present 

ost  perfect 

n  "  expres- 

'ented. 

calash  will 

h  cottages, 

n,  a  small 

iry ;  on  the 
',  since  he 
ittempts  to 
ngth  of  the 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


87 


river,  or  any  other  little  item,  is  a  most  aggravat- 
ing failure  ;  but,  then,  we  arc  expected  to  give  our 
mite  of  a  guide  a  silver  bit  when  we  leave  him, 
and  this  imposition  is  of  a  piece  with  a  dozen 
other  extortions  which  will  be  practised. 

For,  say  what  you  will  about  Yankee  shrewd- 
ness and  greed  of  gain.  Brother  Jonathan  is  far 
outdone,  in  tliis  respect,  by  his  cousin  across  the 
line. 

For  instance,  though  we  pay  our  driver  a 
good  price  f^r  our  ride,  he  obliges  us  to  pay  all 
the  tolls  over  the  bridges  and  turnpikes ;  then, 
when  we  reach  the  falls  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  is 
demanded  before  we  can  enter  the  narrow  gate 
which  is  the  only  entrance  to  the  cataiact ;  neither 
is  our  Jehu  satisfied  yet  with  the  fleece  he  has 
plucked,  but,  when  he  has  at  length  landed  us 
safely  in  Qiiebec,  and  we  come  to  settle  for  our  ca- 
lash, he  demands,  with  a  piteous  whine,  that  we 
"  remember  the  dri\er,"  which  we  assure  him  we 
will  do  to  our  dying  day,  and  never  hire  him  again, 
should  we  come  to  Qiiebec  a  tliousand  times. 

However,  when  we  actually  catch  a  glimpse 


I 


88 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


of  the  charming  Montmorcuci  Fall,  our  annoy- 
ances \yill  disappear  with  the  mist  which  rises 
from  the  cataract's  foot. 

A  leap  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  sheer 
down  docs  the  Montmorcnci  take  over  the  ledge 
of  friable  stone,  unbroken  by  a  single  projecting 
rock,  while  at  the  base  of  the  ledge  the  little 
river  is  entirely  broken  up  and  lost  in  a  secth- 
.  ing  caldron  of  foam  and  spray,  and  rainbow 
colored  mist,  part  of  which  rises  up  again  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  to  tne  bank  above,  seek- 
ing the  spot  from  which  it  fell. 

Soon,  however,  the  river  recovers  from  its  fall, 
collects  its  scattered  forces,  and  flows  on  quietly 
enough  to  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  which  waits 
for  it  only  a  fevy  rods  below. 

Having  seen  the  fiiUs,  we  arc  ready  to  bid 
good  by  to  Qiiebcc,  unless  vvc  care  to  spend 
another  day  in  the  cathedrals  and  convents,  view- 
ing the  relics  of  departed  saints,  and  the  wor- 
sliip  paid  them  by  living  sinners. 

We  shall  be  strongly  tempted  now,  unless 
our  purse  is  already  much  exhausted,  to  turn  our 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


89 


)iir  annoy- 
/hlch  rises 

feet  sheer 
r  the  Ictlge 
projecting 
tj  the  little 
n  a  sceth- 
d  rainbow 
again  two 
30ve,  scek- 

om  its  fall, 
on  quietly 
hich  waits 

ady  to  bid 

to    spend 

ents,  vicw- 

]  the  wor- 

3W,    unless 
to  turn  our 


faces  northward  and  Saguenay-ward.  A  visit  to 
the  Saguenay  would  add  about  fifteen  dollars  to 
our  expenses ;  but  the  trip  need  not  be  described, 
since  much  has  recently  been  written  upon  it, 
and  since  the  present  plan  is  to  visit  another 
section  of  the  Dominion. 

And  now,  the  excursion  to  Montreal  and  Qiie- 
bec  being  finished,  and  as  we  do  not  mean  to 
"  go  it  blind  "  in  regard  to  our  financial  con- 
dition,  let  us  reckon  up  what  this  vacation  in 
Canada  has  cost.     Here  are  the  items :  — 

Ticket  to  Montreal,  Qiiebec,  and  return,    $22.00 

Hotel  bill  at  Montreal,  for  four  days,     .     •     8.00 

"       "         Qiiebec,  for  three  days,      .     .     4-5o 

Incidental    expenses,    including   carriage 

hire,  meals,   and  berths    on  cars,    and 

boats,  &c.,  &c.,  discount,  &c.,  .     .     .     .  i5-oo 

Making  our  total  expenses  for   a  trip  of 

ten  days,  in  Canada, $49-50 

For  about  the  same   expense  can  one  spend 


90 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


another  vacation  in  \'hc  new  Dominion,  turning 
westward,  instcatl  of  eastward,  from  Montreal. 
Though  this  route  has  not  yet  become  so  pop- 
ular with  pleasure-seekers  as  tl>e  one  just  de- 
scribed, perhaps  it  possesses  even  greater  attrac- 
tioMS  for  many,  since  it  shows  more  of  the 
wonderful  river  scenery  of  Crmada,  and  the 
newer    and    more   enterprising   sections   of  the 

Dominion. 

This  excursion,  moreover,  will  introduce  us  to 
the  Canadian  capital,  and  to  the  greatest  lumber 
region  of  the  world,  as  well  as  to  the  exciting 
sport  of  running  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
on  our  way  back  to  Montreal. 

Early  in  the  morning,  if  we  decide  in  favor  of 
the  Ottawa  trip,  we  shall  take  the  cars  at  the 
Grand  Trunk  station,  on  Bonaventure  Street, 
Montreal ;  and  seven  miles  from  the  city,  the  cars 
will  transfer  their  freight  to  the  trim  little 
steamer,  which  is  here  waiting  to  take  us  half 
way  to  Ottawa.  Soon  we  shall  be  ploughing 
our  way  through  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Ottawa, 
which  look  about  the  color  of  muddy  cider. 


turning 
^loiitical. 
su  pop- 
.'  just  de- 
ter altrac- 
c  of  the 
and  tlic 
)s    of  the 

luce  us  to 

st  lumber 

c  exciting 

awrcnce, 

n  favor  of 
ars  at  the 
ue  Street, 
y,  the  cars 
:rim  little 
;c  us  half 
ploughing 
e  Ottawa, 
ider. 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  T/fFAf. 


91 


If  we  were  not  in  a  country  of  great  rivers,  the 
Ottawa  itself  wjuld  be  a  standing  marvel,  for 
there  are  very  few  rivers  in  the  world  that  out- 
rank it  in  size. 

Noted  for  its  great  volume  and  the  impetuos- 
ity of  its  course,  it  sweeps  down  for  hundreds 
and  hundreds  of  miles  from  its  undiscovered 
source  in  the  far  north.  For  more  than  a  thou- 
sand miles  from  its  union  with  the  St.  Lawrence 
have  explorers  traced  its  course,  and  yet  its  head 
waters  have  never  been  reached,  and  it  is  not 
certainly  known  whether  the  Indian  tradition 
that  it  rises  in  a  great  lake,  as  large  as  Lake 
Huron,   is  true  or  false. 

No  wonder  '.hat  in  the  Indian  tongue  this 
mighty  stream  is  called  the  Kitchcsippi,  or  great 
river. 

Soon  after  taking  the  steamer,  we  reach  the  old 
French  town  of  St.  Anne's,  with  its  big  church 
and  little  houses ;  and,  to  avoid  a  rapid,  we  here 
have  to  pass  through  a  lock,  during  which  rather 
slow  operation,  we  have  a  good  chance  to  see 
this  old-fashioned  village,  and  a  large  proportion 


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92 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


of  its  inhabitants,  wlio  make  an  unfailing  pil- 
grimage to  the  wharf  to  see  tlie  great  event  of 
the  day  —  the  arrival  of  the  boat. 

Here  at  St.  Anne's  it  is  said  that  the  poet 
Moore  wrote  his  immortal  Canadian  Boat  Song, 
the  chorus  of  wliich  — 

"  Row,  brothers,  row;  the  stream  runs  fast; 
The  rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight's  past"  — 

is  so  familiar  to  all.  Surely  the  lovely  scene  of 
river  and  rapids,  green  islands  and  fields,  and 
gently-sloping  hills,  which  the  poet  looked  out 
iTpon  from  St.  Anne's,  was  enough  to  inspire  a 
more  prosaic  soul  than  Tom  Moore's. 

One  of  the  most  noticeable  features  of  our  ride 
up  the  Ottawa  is  the  immense  amount  of  lum- 
ber floating  down  the  river,  both  in  rafts  of 
rough  logs  and  barges  piled  with  boards.  Per- 
haps a  short  account  of  tiiis  greatest  industry  of 
Northern  Canada  will  not  be  uninterestmg. 

The  first  step  of  the  lumberiAan  is  to  secure 
of  the  government,  which  owns  most  of  the 
timber-land  of  Canada,  a  berth,  or  limit  of  wood- 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


93 


Infailing  pil- 
|at  event  of 

at   tlic  poet 
Boat  Song, 

IS  fast; 
lifspast"  — 

ly  scene  of 

I   fields,  and 

looked  out 

to  inspire  a 

i  of  our  ride 
lint  of  l-im- 
in  rafts  of 
lards.  Per- 
industry  of 
sting. 

is  to  secure 
ost  of  the 
lit  of  wov)d- 


land,  on  the  Upper  Ottawa,  or  on  one  of  its  tiibu- 
taries. 

These  limits  are  sold  by  auction  for  a  merely 
nominal  price,  something  like  a  dollar  or  a  dol- 
lar and  a  half  per  square  mile. 

A  limit,  which  usually  comprises  about  a  hun- 
dred square  miles,  having  been  secured,  Indian 
scouts  are  sent  out  to  find  and  mark  the  position 
of  the  best  pine  grove  in  the  tract. 

When  the  cold  weather  actually  sets  in,  an 
army  of  five  or  six  hundred  lumbermen  is  de- 
spatched to  this  limit,  and  then  from  October  to 
April  the  woods  are  merry  enough  with  th« 
cheery  ring  of  the  axe,  and  the  shout  of  the 
many  teamsters. 

On  first  reaching  the  limit,  a  lough  shanty  of 
logs  is  built,  with  .1.  double  row  of  berths  around 
the  sides,  a  raised  fireplace  in  the  centre,  and  an 
opening  in  the  roof  which  serves  as  a  chimney. 
And  tliis  rough  hovel  gives  a  name  to  everything 
connected  with  lumbering.  For  instance,  '' shan- 
tying,"  in  common  parlance,  means  lun:bering ; 
"  going  up  to   shanty  "  is  going  to  the   lumber 


; 


I 


I 


id 


94 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


camp.  Lumbermen,  in  this  "shanty  dialect," 
are  "  shanty  men,"  and  the  horses  they  take  with 
them  arc  "shanty  horses.' 

The  domestic  economy  of  the  shanty  is  con- 
ducted on  very  simple,  and,  withal,  strictly  tem- 
perance principles. 

The  staple  articles  of  diet  are  fat  salt  pork 
and  doughnuts,  while  tea  is  the  universal  bever- 
age. But  such  tea !  —  it  docs  not  even  bear  a 
family  resemblance  to  the  delicious  drink  of  a 
well-ordered  supper  table.  Such  tea  would  be 
no  more  appreciated  by  the  rougl.  palate  of  a 
*'  shanty  man,"  than  would  a  Parker  House  din- 
ner by  a  Mississippi  alligator. 

Would  you  know  the  recipe  for  shanty  tea  ? 

In  a  pot  of  cold  water  place  two  heaping 
handfids  of  tea,  hang  if  on  the  crane  over  the  fire, 
and  let  it  boil  —  not  simmer,  but  actually  boil  — 
for  half  an  hour ;  then  sweeten  with  molasses, 
and  you  have  the  fiivorite  drink  of  the  Canadian 
lumbermen. 

Some  of  the  supplies  which  are  required  by  a 
gang  of  six  hundred  men  tinoughout  the  winter 
are  as  follows  :  — 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


95 


ity  dialect," 
cy  take  with 

lanty  is  con- 
strictly  tem- 

at  salt  pork 
ersal  bevcr- 
even  bear  a 

drink  of  a 
a  would   be 

palate  of  a 
■  House  din- 

Einty  tea  ? 
vo  heaping 
>ver  the  fire, 
ually  boil  — 
h  molasses, 
le  Canadian 

quired  by  a 
the  winter 


825  barrels  of  pork, 

900  barrels  of  flour, 
7,500  pounds  of  tea, 
3,650  gallons  of  sirup, 
6,000  pounds  of  tobacco, 

375  ilogs, 

225  sleds,  &c.j  &c., 
the  whole,  costing  over  fifty  thousand  dollars,  at 
a  low  estimate. 

When  spring  comes,  the  logs  are  hauled  to  the 
nearest  stream,  and  tiien  floated  down,  ihrough 
various  tributaries,  perhaps,  until  at  length  they 
reach  the  broad  Ottawa. 

When  the  rafts  reach  the  Chaudiiire,  near  Ot- 
tawa City,  they  are  caught  by  a  boom  ;  and  in 
the  immense  steam  saw-mills  which  here  line  the 
river,  they  are  speedily  converted  into  the  build- 
ing-material of  tlie  world. 

Now  that  we  know  something  of  the  history 
of  the  rafts  and  lumber  scows  whicli  dot  the 
river  on  every  side,  let  us  pay  attention  to  the 
scenery  through  which  we  are  passing.  Noth- 
ing very  striking  or  grand  shall  we  see  ;  but  still 


96 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


the  quiet  beauty  of  the  scene,  which  is  ever  un- 
folding to  us,  will  make  this  clay,  spent  on  the 
forward  deck  of  the  Ottawa  steamer,  a  red-letter 
day  in  our  Canadian  journey. 

On  the  right  are  the  grecp  fields  and  log  huts 
of  the  Province  of  Qiicbec,  and  on  the  left  the 
log  huts  and  green  fields  cf  the  Province  of  On- 
tario, with  little  of  the  wonderful  diflerencc 
in  the  opposite  banks  observable  which  many 
travellers  imagine  they  see  in  favor  of  Protes- 
tant Ontario,  and  to  the  disadvantage  of  Catholic 
Qiiebec. 

A  single  glance  at  either  shore,  however, 
would  convince  us  that  we  were  not  passing 
through  an)'  part  of  Yankee  land,  such  an 
air  of  shiftlcssness  and  general  debility  is  every- 
where  noticeable. 

VVe  have  been  told,  too,  that  the  superstitious 
ignorance  of  dwellers  in  these  backwood  settle- 
ments is  perfectly  marvellous,  for  this  boasted 
nineteenth  century  of  enlightenment.  Not  long 
ago  an  approaching  comet  and  the  predictions 
of  an  ignorant  priest  threw  most  of  the  inhabit- 


ever  un- 
-nt  on  the 
red-letter 

(1  log  huts 
;hc  left  the 
ncc  of  Oii- 
diirercncc 
hich  many 
■  of  Protes- 
of  Catholic 

;,  however, 
not  passing 
id,  such  an 
lity  is  every- 

superstitious 
wood  settle- 
Ihis  boasted 
:.  Not  long 
;  predictions 
the  inhabit- 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


97 


ants  of  a  large  Canadian  village  into  consterna- 
tion, and  fully  impressed  the  whole  connnunity 
with  the  belief  that  the  day  of  judgment  was 
appointed  for  exactly  live  minutes  past  ten  of  a 
bright  May  morning. 

It  wa&  less  than  two  years  ago  that  in  another 
priest-ridden  village  of  the  Province  of  Quebec, 
a  nun,  of  a  prophetic  turn  of  mind,  announced 
that  there  would  soon  be  three  days  of  total 
darkness,  when  not  onl)'  the  sun  and  moon 
would  be  darkened,  and  the  stars  would  refuse 
to  give  their  light,  but  even  lamps  and  fires 
could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  burn,  and  only 
wax  candles  which  had  been  blessed  by  the 
priest  would  give  light. 

In  consequence  of  this  startling  prophecy  the 
merchants  of  the  place  drove  a  nourishing  trade 
in  wax  candles,  the  priests  tilled  their  pockets 
with  consecration  money,  and  all  waited  in 
dread  expectancy  for  the  dark  days.  The  ap- 
pointed days  came ;  but  the  sun  and  moon, 
lamps  and  fires,  all  shone  as  brightly  as  ever. 
The  reputation  of  the  prophetic   nun  was  fast 

7 


; 


98 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


sinking  below  par,  when,  by  a  fortunate  chance, 
a  tremendous  thunder  shower  arose  one  night. 

Forthwith  all  good  Catholics  arose  and  lighted 
their  conseciated  tapers;  and  —  mirabilc  dictti 
—  in  the  course  of  an  hour  or  two  the  storm  abat- 
ed, and  soon  entirely  ceased. 

Moreover,  one  devout  sister,  more  zealous  than 
the  rest,  besides  lighting  her  candle,  sprinkled 
her  furniture  and  carpets  with  a  liberal  supply 
of  what  she  supposed  was  holy  water ;  but  im- 
agine her  horror,  and  the  state  of  her  furniture, 
when  she  found  the  next  morning,  that  she  had 
made  a  mistake,  and  in  her  trepidation  of  the 
previous  night,  had  used  the  bottle  of  hair  oil 
irtstcad  of  the  llask  of  holy  water. 

Nevertheless,  the  propiietic  character  of  the 
holy  nun  was  established  beyond  a  doubt,  though 
her  prediction  had  not  been  cjuite  carried  out  in 
all  its  details ;  and  all  pious  Catholics  blesset' 
their  stars,  and  crossed  themselves  an  extra  time, 
when  they  thought  of  tiie  great  deliverance 
which  their  holy  candles  liad  wrought  out  for 
them. 


HOIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


99 


late  chance, 
Mie  night. 
!  and  lighted 
'rahilc  dictu 
2  storm  abat- 

zcalous  than 
lie,  sprinkled 
beral  supply 
ter ;  but  im- 
icr  furniture, 

that  she  had 
dation  of  the 
le  of  hair  oil 

iracter  of  the 
doubt,  though 
carried  out  in 
tholics  blessed 
an  extra  lime, 
ut  deliverance 
rought  out  for 


But  we  were  steaming  up  the  Ottawa  River  — 
were  we  not?     About  half  way  between  Mont- 
real and  Ottawa  the  Long  Sault  Rapids  will  ob- 
struct our   further  progress  by  steamer,  and  we 
shall  be  obl'^od  to   take  to   the  rails  for  a  few 
miles.     Grenvillc  and  Carillon  are  the  termini, 
and  only  two  stations  of  the  road,  and  the  single 
car  which  this  railijad  boasts  might,  to  all  ap- 
pearances, have  served  George  Stevenson  on  his 
first  trial   trip.     An   ancient  conductor,  in  a  bat- 
tered beaver  hat,  of  at  least   seventy   summers, 
(these  figures,  by  the  way,  will  apply,  with  great 
truth,  either  to  the  conductor  or  his  hat),  punches 
our   tickets ;    a  venerable   brakeman    turns   the 
crank,  while   the  engine  puHs  and  wheezes  as 
though  it,  too,  were  afflicted  with  old  age  and  de- 
crepitude.    But  it  bears  us  safely  around  ihe  rap- 
ids, and  according  to  tiie  principle  of  the  old  prov- 
erb, we  should  not  speak  ill  of  such  a  train.     It  is 
possible,  too,  that  in  its  onward  march  improve- 
ment has  by  this   time  reached  even  the  Gren- 
ville  and  Carillon  Railroad.     In  justice  it  should 
be  said  that,  in  spite  of  their  unprofessional  ap- 


lOO 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


pcaniiice,  the  officials  of  this  litlic  road  nflbrd  a 
most  pleasing  contrast,  in  point  of  politeness  and 
kindness,  to  many  of  the  conductors  and  brake- 
men  of  larger  roads  that  might  be  mentioned. 

At  Carilion  another  steamer  is  in  waiting,  new, 
and  finely  furnished,  and  comparatively  large ; 
in  short,  worthy  of  her  name,  in  every  particu- 
lar, is  tiie  "  Peerless." 

By  more  green  fields  and  log  huts  we  steam, 
with  the  sombre  pine  forests  stretching  away 
for  hundreds  of  miles  in  the  distance,  until 
at  length,  just  twelve  hours  after  leaving  the 
wharf  at  Montreal,  we  glide  under  the  lee  of 
the  high,  rocky  blulV  on  which  the  Canadian 
capital  is  built. 

As  usual,  the  Ihst  inquiry  upon  reaching  a 
new  city  will  be  for  a  hotel.  As  usual  too,  in 
Canadian  cities  the  highest  priced,  which  in 
Ottawa  happens  to  be  the  Russell  House,  is  far 
from  first-class,  and  but  little  superior  to  the 
more  moderate  houses.  At  cither  the  Albion 
or  the  Daniels  tiic  charges  arc  not  more  than 
two  dollars  per  dayyo/*  Americans. 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEAf. 


lOI 


1(1  aflbnl  a 
itcncss  and 
and  brake- 

ntioned. 

aiting,  new, 

ivcly   large ; 

cry  particu- 

s  we  steam, 
ching  away 
stance,  until 
leaving  the 
:r  the  lee  of 
he   Canadian 

1  reaching  a 
usual  too,  in 
;d,  which  in 
House,  is  far 
peri  or  to  the 
r  the  Albion 
ot  more  than 


One  of  the  strangest  freaks  of  modern  legis- 
lators, in  the  opinion  of  many,  was  the  establisli- 
ment  of  the  capital  of  Britisii  America  at  "  half- 
barbarous  Ottawa,"  as  a  recent  writer  calls  this 
bright  little  city. 

But  wlicn  we  have  taken  a  stroll  over  the  city, 
it  will  not  seem  sucii  a  very  bad  place  for  a 
capital,  after  all ;  and  we  shall  be  apt  to  think  as 
favorably  of  the  judgment  of  those  who  selected 
this  site  as  of  the  man  who  has  presumed  to  call 
this  pretty  city  "  half-barbarous  Ottawa."  Hand- 
some blocks  of  brick  and  brown  stone  line  the 
principals  streets,  and  tasteful  private  residences 
give  anything  but  an  uncivilized  aspect  to  the 
outskirts  of  the  city. 

Northern  belies,  witli  sparkling  eyes  and  rosy 
checks,  promenade  the  streets,  in  company  with 
the  nobbiest  of  young  men  wlio  sport  Malacca 
canes  and  blonde  side-whiskers  in  tiie  most 
approved  Canuck  style ;  wliile  many  govern- 
ment officials  are  galloping  to  and  from  the 
Parliament  buildings,  with  a  condescending  air 
and   rigidity  of  back-bone   that   no   one   but  an 


EhkIiJ'Ih"-'"  ^^'''"  '**  conscious  of  cutting  a  swell 
can  assiiino. 

Even  we  shall  probably  be  obliged  to  confess 
to  a  feeling  a  little  too  near  admiration  to  be  in 
strict  accordance  witii  our  republican  principles 
and  training,  when  wc  arc  informed  by  the  awe- 
stricken  voice  of  a  native,  as  wc  very  likely  shall 
be,  that  his  lordship,  the  governor  general,  is 
passing  on  horseback. 

A  little  story  will  illustrate  the  curions  gyra- 
tions which  the  wheel  of  fortune  sometimes 
makes,  and  at  the  same  time  explain  why  this 
main  street  of  Ottawa,  up  and  down  which  we 
have  been  pacing,  is  called  Sparks  Street.  It 
has  been  expanded  into  a  very  pretty  talc  in  an 
old  number  of  one  of  our  popular  magazines, 
but  as  it  is  hardly  supposable  that  everybody  has 
complete  files  of  Harper,  wc  will  give  here  an 
outline  of  the  story. 

Some  fourscore  years  ago  an  adventurous  and 
sharp-sighted  Yankee,  named  Wright,  wandered 
up  into  this  part  of  the  world,  which  was  then 
an  untrodden  wilderness  for  near  a  hundred  miles 


ng  a  swell 

\  to  confess 
oil  to  be  ill 
1  principles 
by  the  avve- 
likcly  shall 
general,  is 

Lirions  gyra- 
somctimcs 
lin  why  this 
;n  which  we 
s  Street.  It 
y  tale  in  an 
•  magazines, 
^erybody  has 
;ive   here  an 

enturous  and 
ht,  wandered 
icii  was  then 
unulred  miles 


on  every  side.  When  this  keen,  specnlative  son 
of  tlie  Puritans  saw  the  rich  lands  just  across  the 
river  from  where  Ottawa  now  stands,  he  saw  at 
the  same  time  (in  his  mind's  eye)  a  thriving  vil- 
lage on  this  very  spot,  of  which  a  happy  old  man 
by  the  name  of  Wright  was  the  founder  as  well 
as  Grand  Mogul.  In  short,  here,  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  he  decided  to  raise  his  Ebenezer,  as 
the  hymn  has  it,  or,  in  plain  Canuck,  to  build  a 
shanty.  And  this  shanty,  with  numerous  other 
shanties  which  soon  grouped  themselves  about  it, 
he  called  Hull,  after  the  dull  little  sea-coast 
village,  so  fomiliar  to  Bostonians,  from  which  he 
had  emigrated. 

Now,  Mr.  Wright  waxed  great  and  increased 
in  goods,  .is  he  deserved  to  do,  and  had  many 
lusty  Irishmen  to  work  for  him.  Among  others 
was  one  who  bore  the  suggestive  patronymic 
Sparks.  Nevertheless,  Mr.  Sparks's  character 
was  in  no  wise  suggesti  '  by  his  name,  whether 
that  name  brings  to  minci  the  love-lorn  Bene- 
dict, or  merely  gives  a  general  impression  of 
brightness  and  instability.    On  the  other  hand,  Mr. 


lO-l 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Sparks  was  a  model  of  steadiness  and  good 
sense,  knowing  when  he  had  made  a  good 
bargain,  and  very  sure  that  he  was  on  the  losing 
side,  when,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  Mr.  Wright 
told  him  that  he  couldn't  pay  him  for  his  year's 
work  in  money,  but  that  he  must  take  his  pay 
out  in  land  across  the  river. 

No,   there  was   no   help   for   it;    money  was 
tighter  in  Hull  or  Wrightsville  than  it  is  on  Wall 
Street  in  a  panic,  and  Mr,  Wrigiit  was  obliged  to 
suspend  specie  payment  entirely,  and  friend  Sparks 
had  his  choice    of  taking  any  number  of  acres 
across  the  river  for  his  pay,  or  nothing  at  all.     At 
first  he  did  flare  up,  to  be  sure,  —  as  what  spark 
would  not?  —  when  blown   upon  by  such  a  gale 
of  ill-luck,  and  he  called  St.  Patrick  to  witness 
that  those  acres  across  the  river  were  not  worth 
a  picayune,  or  a  continental,  or  whatever  hap- 
pened to  be  the  popular  cxpressic::  for  worthless- 
ness  in  the  year  i8— ;  and  mc   ver  he  went  on 
to  remark   that  it  was  a  crying  sin  to  pay  a  man 
in  such  valueless  commodity  as  Canadian  wilder- 
ness,  and   that   the   more  a  mai)  had  of  it,  the 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


^05 


i  and  good 
ada  a  good 
n  the  losing 
Mr.  Wright 
or  his  year's 
;ake  his  pay 

money  was 
it  is  on  Wall 
as  obliged  to 
Viend  Sparks 
iber  of  acres 
g  at  all.  At 
>  what  spark 
y  such  a  gale 
;k  to  witness 
;re  not  worth 
rhatever  hap- 
•br  worthless- 
:r  he  went  on 
to  pay  a  man 
adian  wilder- 
lad  of  it,  the 


wo.se  off  he  was,  etc.     But  lie  was  a  good,  sen- 
sible   man   at   bottom,    and    concluded,    as   Mr. 
Wright  showed  no  signs  of  "  resuming,"  to  take 
a  pair  of  oxen  for  his  season's  work,  with  about 
two  hundred  acres  across  the  river,  thrown  in  as 
a  clincher.     The  years  rolled  on,  and  fortune's 
whirligig  revolved  as  well ;  Wrightstown,  how- 
ever, followed  the  e  ample  of  neither  time  nor 
fortune,  but  came  to  a  complete  stand-still.     On 
the  other  hand,  the  rocky  pastures  on  the  other 
side   of  the  river   began  to  show  signs  of  life ; 
first  one   shanty   went   up,  then  another;   then 
some    soldiers'    barracks    were    reared,   and    a 
frame   house   soon  followed  them.     By  and   by 
it  began  to  be  whispered  that  the    government 
had   decided    to   establish    there    an    important 
military  post,  and  that  a  great  canal  was  to  be 
dug    right   through    Sparks's  worthless   wilder- 
ness.    After   all.  Sparks   began  to   think   "  that 
wasn't   such    ^   bad   year's  work,"    and,    as   the 
money    flowed    in    upon    him   faster   and    faster 
every  year,  he  became  more  and  more  assured 
of  tlic  truth  of  this  conviction. 


But  you  know,  or  can  guess,  the  rest  — how 
Oluuva  grew,  and  how  fricml  Sparks  grew  with 
it;  how  he  developed  iVom  Sparks  the  day- 
hiborer  into  the  Hon.  Mr.  Sparks  tlie  niilUon- 
aire;  and  you  can  doubtless  imagine  a  rotund, 
hearty  old  man  pacing  up  and  down  the 
handsome,  busy  street  to  which  he  had  given 
his  name,  and  recalling  that  year,  long  ago, 
when  he  worked  for  Mr.  Wright  and  received 
a  pair  of  oxen  and  —  well,  a  little  matter  of 
land  "  across  the  river." 

And  how  about  Mr.  Wright  and  his  village? 
Very  little    indeed,  for   there  is  Hull  to  this 
day   about   as   dead    and   dull   as   its   namesake 
of  Massachusetts  Bay. 

But  as  to  the  modern  city  —  Ottawa.  It 
might  be  emphatically  called  the  Lumber  City 
of  America.  Indeed,  the  lumber  trade  is  the 
great  and  only  distinguishing  business  of  this 
whole  region. 

I-rom  the  high  blufl'  on  which  the  city  is 
built,  you  look  down  upon  hundreds  of  acres 
piled    fifteen   and   twenty  feet   high   with    sawn 


rest  —  how 
5  grew  with 
s  the  day- 
tlie  million- 
\c  a  rotund, 

down  the 
-  had  given 
•,  long  ago, 
jnd  received 
le  matter  of 

his  village? 
Hull  to  this 
its   namesake 

Ottawa.  It 
Lumber  City 
trade  is  the 
iness   of  this 

1  the  city  is 
eds  of  acres 
1    with    sawn 


I/O IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


107 


lumber,  wliilc  the  immense  mills  whicli  here  line 
the  river,  busy  night  and  day,  arc  ever  humming 
their  song  of  industry  and  wcaltli. 

It  is  said  that,  almost  without  exception,  these 
great  establishments  are  ovvned  by  "  American" 
capital  and  managed  by  Yankee  skill. 

When  we  visit  the  lower  part  of  the  city  to 
inspect  the  mills  and  limiber-yards,  we  shall 
at  the  same  time  admire  the  wonderful  falls  of 
the  Chaudiii"e. 

Very  few  rivals  and  scarce  any  superiors  have 
these  falls  in  the  country. 

Though  the  descent  is  not  great,  the  vast 
volume  of  roaring,  boiling  water  which  tumbles 
over  the  rough  ledge  makes  the  Chaudiere  no 
ordinary  waterfall. 

In  the  upper  part  of  the  city  is  situated  the 
great  attraction  of  Ottawa  —  the  Parliament 
buildings. 

These  are  really  very  fine,  "  the  most  magnifi- 
cent on  tlic  face  of  the  earth,"  any  Canadian 
williin  a  radius  of  forty  miles  will  tell  you ; 
and    thougii    we    may  be   disposed   to   take    his 


io8 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


statement  cum  grano  salis,  \vc  can  readily  ex- 
cuse liis  pride  in  iiis  capitol. 

The  buildings  enclose  three  sides  of  a  quad- 
rangle, and  are  built  principally  of  a  rough 
brown  stone  found  in  that  region,  and  deeply 
trimmed  with  Ohio  sandstone. 

The  architecture  is  Gothic  modified  to  suit  the 
cold  Canadian  climate,  and  the  buildings  have 
all  a  wonderful  air  of  taste  and  symmetry  about 
them,  whether  viewed  near  at  hand  or  at  a  dis- 
tance;  for  the  clear-cut  outlines  of  the  many 
turrets  and  the  glittering  of  the  numberless  gilded 
spires  can  be  seen  miles  away,  in  that  pure  at- 
mosphere. 

•  The  inside,  too,  well  corresponds  with  the  fair 
exterior,  and  anything  finer  than  the  halls  and  cor- 
ridors, legislative  apartments,  and  general  oflices 
of  the  Canadian  capitol  is  seldom  to  be  seen. 
The  main  central  building  contains  the  chambers 
of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Commons.  They 
are  tastefully  and  richly  upholstered  and  fur- 
nished ;  the  corridors  arc  hung  with  paintings  of 
the  past  governor-generals  and  distinguished  men 


^ 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


109 


n  readily  ex- 

;s  of  a  quad- 

of   a   rough 

,  and  deeply 

ed  to  suit  the 
uildings  have 
nimetry  about 
I  or  at  a  dis- 
of  the  many 
ibcrless  gilded 
that  pure  at- 

3  with  the  fair 
;  halls  and  cor- 
gencral  offices 
in  to  be  seen. 
s  the  chambers 
nmons.  They 
:ered  and  fur- 
Lh  paintings  of 
:inguished  men 


of  the  provinces;  while  the  sandstone  pillars 
which  support  the  building  arc  richly  sculptured 
with  representations  of  the  animal  and  vegetable 
productions  of  the  Dominion, 

Of  the  buildings  on  the  sides  of  the  quadran- 
gle, one  is  taken  up  with  the  general  otlices  of 
o-ovcrnment,  while  the  other  is  devoted  in  part 
to  the  Patent  Office,  where  we  can  pass  two  or 
three  very  pleasant  hours  among  the  various 
children  of  the  inventors'  brain ;  some  valuable, 
others  worthless,  some  accepted  and  patented, 
others  rejected.  How  much  care,  and  toil,  and 
patience,  how  many  trembling  hopes  and  satisfied 
desires,  and  ruined  plans  for  wealth  and  honor, 
arc  hidden  away  in  the  cases  and  on  the  tables 
of  a  Patent  Office! 

Now,  what  else  is  there  to  see?  The  guide- 
book, hotel-keeper,  and  "  we  "  your  self-appoint- 
ed mentor,  all  answer,  "Nothing."  On  our 
homeward  journey,  lot  us,  witJi  your  permission, 
take  the  most  delightful  and  exciting  steambo:  t 
ride  which  the  country  affords  —  the  trip  down 
the   river,  through  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 


r 


IBMBBPiMWI 


IIO 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


\ 


rencc ;  that  is,  if  we  can  pierce  the  Btcotian 
intellects  of  the  Ottawa  Railway  officials,  siilli- 
cicntly  lo  find  when  the  train  for  Prescott  leavea. 

The  fare  to  Prescott,  the  southern  terminus  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad,  is  two 
dollars,  and  the  fifty-four  miles  of  this  road  run 
through  one  of  the  most  desolate,  barren,  stumpy, 
swampy,  in  sliort  (for  an  ordinary  stock  of  adjec- 
tives is  exhausted  in  attempting  to  descr'.be  it), 
utterly  forpaken  regions  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 
The  scenery  is  a  continuous  succession  of 
swampy  lowlands  and  burnt  forests,  where  the 
dead  trees  rear  their  bare,  gaunt  limbs  to  heaven 
in  a  ghostly,  drcyry  way.  The  fact  is,  the  coun- 
try between  Prescott  and  Ottawa,  in  the  matter 
of  dead  forest  trunks,  might  easily  "  stump  "  the 
world. 

We  shall  not  have  a  groat  while  to  Wait  at 
Prescott,  if  the  steamer  is  on  time  ;  and  not  long 
after  swinging  clear  of  the  wharf,  we  reach  the 
Long  '  iult  Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which 
continue  for  nine  miles. 

But  we  mustn't   be  disappointed  because  this 


tlic    B(Cotian 
officials,  suffi- 
rcscott  Icares. 
n  tcnniiius  of 
iiroad,  is  two 
this  road  run 
arret!,  stumpy, 
stock  of  adjec- 
o  descr'.be  it), 
:  of  the  globe, 
succession    of 
sts,   where  the 
imbs  to  heaven 
:t  is,  the  coun- 
i,  in  the  matter 
^  "  stump  "  the 

hilc  to  wait  at 
; ;  and  not  long 
•f,  we  reach  the 
awrence,  which 

ed  because  this 


IIOIV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


Ill 


little  ripple  and  eddy  which  we  sec  is  the  Long 
Sault  of  which  we  have  heard  anil  dreamed  so 
mucii.  We  shall  come  to  the  rapids  in  good 
earnest  pretty  soon. 

There,  do  you  see  tliat  seething,  boiling,  rush- 
ing, white-capped  mass  of  angry  waves,  just 
ahead  of  us?  That  begins  to  meet  your  antici- 
pations—  does  it  not? 

Now  we  are  in  tlie  midst  of  the  turbulent 
waters.  How  the  steamer  rocks  and  careens! 
Now  down,  down,  down  in  a  watery  valley, 
now  up  on  a  billowy  hill.  IIow  she  sliakcs,  and 
shivers,  and  groans,  as  though  hit  by  a  cannon 
ball,  when  she  broaches  to  ever  so  little,  and  a 
billow  taps  her  broadside  ever  so  gently ! 

Don't  let  her  broach  to  much  nune,  pilot,  or 
one  of  these  sledgc-liammer  waves  vv'il'  shiver 
her  to  splinters  in  a  twinkling.  Though,  in  fact, 
accidents  rarely  occur,  this  shooting  the  rapids 
is  not  without  real  excitement  and  danger. 

This  we  can  read  in  the  captain's  anxious  face 
as  he  nervously  paces  the  upper  deck  just  under 
the  wheel-house.     Then  we  must  have  four  ex- 


112 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


pciicnccd  pilots  at  tlie  vvliccl,  and  four  more  at 
tlic  tiller  ;  eight  pairs  of  sharp  eyes  on  the  foam- 
ing rapids,  and  the  narrow  channel  through 
them  ;  eight  pairs  of  muscular  arms  directing 
the  rudilers.  These  show  the  skill  and  force  it 
requires  to  run  the  St.  Lawrence  Rapiils.  And 
here  we  arc  gliding  out  into  still  water.  Were 
you  afraid?  O,  no!  You  scorn  the  imputation. 
But  then  you  are  rather  glad  the  Long  Sault  is 
safely  passed. 

The  scenery  on  either  bank  is  very  pleasing ; 
the  shores  are  hard  and  well  defined,  not 
swampy  and  reedy,  as  the  banks  of  the  Ottawa ; 
the  settlements,  too,  on  both  sides  of  us,  look 
more  prosperous  than  those  farther  north. 

Cornwall  is  a  busy,  thriving  place,  on  the 
Canadian  shore ;  and  just  below  lies  the  old  Li- 
diaii  village  of  St.  Regis,  with  its  old-fashioned 
church  and  its  historic  bell. 

Many  a  romantic  tale  could  the  tongue  of  this 
old  bell  ring  out  if  it  were  so  disposed.  In  the 
first  place,  it  was  made  in  France,  and  bought 
by  the  St.  Regis  Indians,  who  were  converts  to 


-J 


no  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


T13 


lur  more  at 
n  the  foam- 
cl    through 
lis  directing 
luul  force  it 
lipids.     Anil 
atcr.     Were 
.  imputation, 
ong  Sault  is 

cry  pleasing ; 
defined,    not 
*  the  Ottawa ; 
s  of  us,  look 
;r  north, 
place,  on  the 
cs  the  old  In- 
i  old-fashioned 

tongue  of  this 
posed.  In  the 
:e,  and  bought 
ere  converts  to 


Christianity,  for  their  new  church.  While  on  its 
way  to  its  new  home,  on  the  banlis  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  it  was  captured  by  an  American  pri- 
vateer, and  taken        Salem. 

Soon  after,  it  was  bonght  and  hung  in  the  old 
Orliiodox  Church  of  Dcerfield.  What  a  dilVerent 
call  yon  rung  out  then,  old  bell,  when  you  sum- 
moned the  good  deacons  and  i^turdy  Puritans  of 
Dcerfield  to  Sabbath  worship,  from  what  was 
exjjccted  of  you  when  you  were  cast  in  sunny 
France ! 

Hut  this  bell  was  never  destined  for  an  Ortho- 
dox meeting-iiouse  ;  for  soon  the  Indians,  hearing 
of  its  Protestant  occupation,  formed  an  expedi- 
tion for  its  recovery,  wliich  resulted  in  the 
horrible  Dcerfield  butchery,  and  the  recapture  of 
the  bell,  which  they  bore  back  in  triumph  to  St. 
Regis. 

Eleven  more  rapids  (great  and  small)  we  shall 
run  before  reaching  Montreal. 

But  at  length,  near  evening,  we  steam  up  to 
the  busy  quays  of  the  Mount  Royal  city.     Our 


8 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


"4 

circle  of  Canaclian  travel  is  completed,  and  our 
forty-nvc  dollars  are  nearly  gone,  as  well. 

Which  do  you  prefer,  gentlemen,  Montreal 
and  Qi.cbec,  or  Montreal,  Ottawa,  and  the  St. 
Lawrence  Rapids? 

-You  payB  your  money,  and  you  takes  your 

choice." 


ul 


ted,  and  our 
IS  well. 
;n,  Montreal 
and  the  St. 

ill  takes  your 


HOIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


"5 


CliAPTER  IV. 


THE   TENT   ON   THE   BEACH. 


Now,  reader,  since  you  have  climbed  the 
rocky  steeps  of  the  White  Hills  with  us,  and 
wandered  through  the  cities  and  up  and  down 
the  rivers  of  the  Nc  Dominion  in  our  com- 
pany, we  begin  to  feel  quite  familiar  with  you  ; 
and  so  we  make  bold  to  say,  "  Come  to  the 
sea-shore,  and  spend  a  week  in  our  tent  on  the 
beach." 

We  do  not  expect  to  tell  anything  that  is  new 
about  tent  life  co  you,  whose  canvas  has  often 
whitened  Cape  Cod's  sands  or  Cape  Ann's 
rocks ;  but  this  chapter  is  for  the  thousands 
who  yearly  swelter  through  the  dog  days  be- 
tween the  brick  walls  of  a  city,  or  in  some 
blistering  inland  village,  utterly  unconscious  th  it 


ii6 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


tlic  cool  brcc/cs  of  the  sea  and  llic  ticlights 
of  camp  life  may  lie  enjoyed  for  the  same  five- 
dollar  hill  which  perchance  only  half  purchases 
for  them  the  privilege  of  existinjj  at  home, 
where  the    mercury  ranges  among  the    nineties. 

Even  for  those  who  think  they  have  not  brawn 
enough  to  make  mountaineers,  or  a  si  tlicient 
supply  of  the  "needful"  to  take  the  jurney 
to  Canada,  this  method  of  spending  t  j  vaca- 
tion is  perfectly  feasible,  and  tiiey  will  find  it 
fully  as  enjoyable  as  either  of  the  others. 

Then,  ho  for  the  sea-sh.ore  ! 

Our  outfit  for  the  beach  will  be  very  similar 
to  the  one  we  had  in  the  mountains,  barring 
of  course  our  horse  and  wagon. 

The  chief  modifications  arc,  that  we  shall  not 
need  to  take  so  large  a  supply  of  ham  and  hard 
tack,  since,  if  we  are  skilfid  anglers,  oiu"  hooks 
will  furnish  us  plenty  of  fresh  fish,  and  we  can 
doubtless  rely  on  some  passing  baker's  cart,  or 
upon  the  neighboring  country  store,  to  supply  ua 
with  the  stafi'  of  life. 

In  other  respects,  as  regards  our  tent,  hard- 


-^i 


he   dcliglits 
e  same  livc- 
If  purclmscs 
g    at   home, 
the   nl-icties. 
■e  not  brawn 
a   81  llicicnt 
the     )unicy 
\(r  t   c  vaca- 
r  will  find  it 
hers. 

I  very  similar 
tains,  barring 

t  we  shall  not 
am  and  hurd 
:rs,  our  hooks 
1,  and  we  can 
akcr's  cart,  or 
:,  to  supply  us 

)ur  tent,  hard- 


ware and  tinware,  stove,  and  minor  provisions,  wc 
canrot  do  better,  jjeriiaps,  than  to  follow  our  old 
plan  in  the  mountain  campaign. 

Now,  where  shall  wc  go?  is  tlic  next  question. 

Not' that  there  is  any  lack  of  camping-grounds; 
on  the  other  hand,  the  difficulty  lies  in  choosing 
between  the  many  equally  attractive  spots  with 
which  our  New  England  coast  abounds. 

Thus  Nautasket,  Cohasset,  and  Chelsea  oHcr 
their  quiet  attractions  to  the  lovers  of  hard, 
sandy  beaches  and  surf-bathing.  Then  Nahant, 
with  its  long  neck  of  sand,  its  clifl's  and  sterile, 
rocky  promontories,  presents  varied  delights  to 
the  pleasure-seeker. 

If  we  desire  to  get  farther  out  of  I'ne  busy 
harbor,  and  more  into  the  arms  of  old  Ocean 
himself,  we  can  find  few  pleasantcr  places 
to  spread  our  canvas  than  the  region  about 
Gloucester;  and  the  whole  coast  of  Maine  af- 
fords excellent  tcnting-grounds  if  our  place 
of  residence  or  our  inclinations  lead  us.  to  the 
Pine  Tree  State. 

The  great  drawback  to  the   places  first  men- 


iiS 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


tioned  is,  that  they  nre  fast  becominj^  too  com- 
mon resorts  for  pleasure-seekers,  so  that  nature 
is  almost  lost  in  the  crowd  of  fashionables  who 
yearly  throng  the  sands  of  Nantasket  and  the 
headlands  of  Nahant,  and,  what  with  gardens, 
and  fountains,  and  elegant  residences,  the  places 
begin  to  resemble  artificial  parks.  On  the 
whole,  then,  let  us  vote  for  some  spot  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Gloucester  as  combining  the 
three  requisites  of  camp  life  —  good  fishing, 
good  bathing,  and  good  scenery. 

But,  of  course,  wherever  our  party  votes  to  go, 
we  will  loyally  follow,  whether  it  is  to  Cape  Cod 
or  Cape  Ann,  Massachusetts  Bay  or  Passama- 
quoddy.  We  simply  mention  Gloucester  as  a 
definite  place  for  the  benefit  of  the  anxious  and 
timlcss  who  want  a  summer  vacation,  and  yet 
know  not  where  to  pitch  their  tent. 

Now,  if  we  have  by  this  time  reached  our 
camping-ground,  up  goes  our  tent  in  a  trice, 
with  the  opening  to  the  sea,  that  we  may  get  the 
benefit  of  the  afternoon  breeze  and  the  glorious 
view  of  old  Ocean. 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


119 


ij^  too  corn- 
that  nature 
onables  who 
kct  and  the 
i\i\\  gardens, 
:s,  the  phiccs 
;s.  On  the 
;  spot  in  the 
imbining  the 
rood    fishing, 

:y  votes  to  go, 
i  to  Cape  Cod 
or  Passama- 
oucester  as  a 
e  anxious  and 
ation,  and  yet 
nt. 

;  reached  our 
lit  in  a  trice, 
^e  may  get  the 
id  the  glorious 


We  should,  if  possible,  too,  choose  an  airy 
spot,  at  sonic  distai  o  from  a  grove  of  trees,  for 
there  we  may  hope  to  be  free  from  that  pest  of 
camp   life,   the   mosquito. 

While  we  arc  making  everything  tight  and 
tidy  inside  and  out,  a  committee  of  two  should 
be  detailed  to  dig  a  trench,  eight  or  ten  inches 
deep,  around  the  tent,  to  prevent  our  being 
drowned  out,  should  a  rainy  day  or  a  sharp 
thunder-shower  visit  us. 

A  sleeping-place  for  the  night  is  now  pro- 
vided, and  a  certain  aching  void  beneath  our 
belts  asserts  its  right  to  be  considered  next ;  so 
we  all  seize  our  poles  and  rush  for  the  rocks, 
with  a  realizing  sense  of  working  for  our  sup- 
pers that  we  have  never  before  experienced. 

Fishing-poles  and  lines  we  can  doubtless  se- 
cure from  any  one  of  the  many  little  public 
houses  along  the  shore  at  a  moderate  rental,  and 
at  tlie  same  place  we  can  get  a  basket  of  clams, 
which  will  serve  us  for  bait  this  afternoon. 

When  we  have  learned  tiie  way  of  cunners, 
which  in  the  sinful  trick  of  taking  the  bait  with- 


out  getting  caught  are  past  findiug  out,  we  shall 
discard  chuns  for  bait,  and  use  sea  worms,  which 
W2  can  find  in  great  quantities  by  digging  in  the 
sand  at  low  tide. 

Now  put  a  small  piece  of  bait  on  your  hook 
(if  you  use  half  a  clam,  as  you  will  be  sure  to  do 
if  a  greenhorn  at  cunncr-fishing,  ycu  will  never 
catch  a  supper),  and  drop  in  just  there,  where 
the  water  looks  deep  and  dark,  and  now  — 
"  the  one  who  catches  the  lust  fish  is  the  best 

fellow." 

Neither  Izaak  Walton  nor  any  of  his  disciples 
ever  really  explained  the  delight  there  is  in  the 
"  genlle  craft "  to  the  genuine  angler,  who  is  a 
fisherman  by  nature. 

It  is  not  what  he  catches,  or  what  he  actually 
knows  that  he  will  catch,  that  makes  him  sit  so 
patiently  all  day  long  on  the  hard  side  of  the 
rock,  but  it  is  the   vast  possibilities  which  are 

bfifore  him. 

He  never  yet  caught  a  whale,  to  be  sure  ;  but 
who  knows  that  the  very  next  bite  may  not  be 
iVom  some  monster  of  the  deep  ! 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


121 


lit,  we  shall 
arms,  which 
jgiiig  in  the 

your  hook 
)e  sure  to  do 
Li  will  never 
Lhcre,  where 
and  now  — 
11  is  the  best 

his  disciples 
icrc  is  in  the 
ler,  who  is  a 

t  iie  actually 
•s  him  sit  so 
1  side  of  the 
;s  which  are 

be  sure ;  but 
I  may  not  be 


Thus,  as  we  now  sit,  waiting  for  our  supper  to 
bite  before  we  bite  our  supper,  we  may  be  cjuite 
certain,  tiicorctically,  that  nothing  but  cunncrs 
and  scul[)ins  will  visit  our  hooks,  with  an  occa- 
sional rock  cod  or  tautog  perhaps ;  but  there  is 
the  great  ocean  before  us,  looking  so  tlccp  and 
mysterious,  and  Oiled  witli  all  manner  of  swim- 
ming things ;  and  is  it  not  possible  that  some 
of  the  more  uncommon  will  conclude  to  dine 
ofl'the  cold  clam  which  hangs  from  our  hooks? 

In  short,  fishing  is  a  harmless  lottery  to  the  man 
with  a  large  binnp  of  hope  and  imagination,  and 
though  he  often  draws  blanks  or  insignificant 
prizes,  yet  the  opera-houses  and  railroad  shares 
are  still  in  the  sea,  and  perhaps  the  very  next 
cast  of  his  line  will  bring  one  of  them  up. 

Nipper-fishing  is  no  mean  sport,  however 
much  it  maj'  be  decried  by  professionals,  for, 
though  nippers  are  very  abundant  along  all  our 
New  England  coast,  it  requires  little  less  skill  to 
catch  them  than  it  docs  their  nobler  speckled 
relatives  of  the  mountain  streams ;  and  the  old 
salt  by  our  side,  who  supplies  the  city  market, 


and  who  knows  just  how  to  bait  and  when  and 
how  to  jerk  up  the  llsh,  will  catch  ten  nippers  to 

our  one. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour,  however,  we  shall 
probably  have  caught  enough  little  fish  for  a 
moderate  meal ;  and  the  next  question  which  pre- 
sents itself  will  be  bow  to  prepare  them  for  the 
frying-pan. 

Here  is  the  tnodits  operandi  of  skinning  a 
nipper,  and  a  most  important  piece  of  informa- 
tion  we   shall    find   it   during   our   stay   at   the 

beach. 

Hold  the  fish  firmly  in  your  left  hand,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  ofi'  the  back  fin  from  the 
tail  to  the  head,  then  do  the  same  with  the  ventral 
fins.  Cut  the  skin  around  the  head,  pull  it  off 
with  yrur  thumb  and  finger,  break  off  the  head 
and  — there  you  have  it,  as  nice  and  white  a 
morsel  of  fish  as  ever  delighted  the  soul  of  an 
epicure.  Soon,  when  practice  has  made  us 
mors  perfect,  we  can  skin  two  perch  a  minute 
with  perfect  ease. 

Now  roll  the  nippers  in  corn  meal,  and  lay 


when  and 
nippers  to 

r,  wc  shall 

fish    for  a 

which  pre- 

em  for  the 

sl<inning  a 
of  informa- 
itay   at  the 

hand,  and 
in  from  the 
,  the  ventral 
,  pull  it  off 
off  the  head 
nd  white  a 
I  soul  of  an 
s  made  us 
:h  a  minute 


cal,  and  lay 


//OIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


123 


them  in  the  spider,  in  whic  h  a  piece  of  salt 
pork  is  already  sizzling;  watch  them  carefully 
to  see  that  they  do  not  burn,  and  in  fifteen  min- 
utes our  dish  of  cunncrs,  delicate,  crisp,  and 
brown,  is  ready  to  go  with  our  hard  tack  and 
coffee. 

We  shall  doubtless  find  that  there  is  some 
natural  cook  in  our  party  (for  the  necessity  of 
camp  life  is  the  mother  of  culinary  invention), 
who  will  often  regale  us  with  johnnie-cake  and 
corn-dodgers,  and  those  glorious  flapjacks  which 
cap  the  climax  of  these  out-door  meals  of  ours. 

But  the  crowning  glory  of  our  camp  life  is 
the  evening,  when  the  fried  cunners  have  been 
disposed  of,  the  dishes  washed  up,  and  we  ar- 
range ourselves  for  a  social  talk  before  the  blaz- 
ing fire  of  drift-wood. 

Here  wc  arc,  all  lying  in  a  row  just  within 
the  tent  door,  with  our  feet  toasting  at  the 
crackling  fire  outside. 

Here  are  Sam,  and  Tom,  and  Dick,  and 
Jack,  and  Hiram,  whom  you  met  at  the  moun- 
tains ;  and  these  names  may  stand  for  doctors 


of  divinity,  if  you  choose,  for  wc  have  no 
"  Reverends,"  nor  "  llonorables,"  nor  even 
"Misters"  out  here  during  these  two  weeks. 

It  is  getting  quite  dusk  outside,  and  wc  can 
almost  see  gray  night  coming  down  in  great 
bhccts  over  tlie  earth. 

Lights  of  all  sizes  begin  to  twinkle  about  us, 
from"  the   little   star   of   the   twelfth   magnitude 
which   glimmers   in   the   cottage   of  the   fisher- 
man,   to    the    bright    constellation    that    shines 
from   the   light-house  tower.     Away  in  the  dis- 
tance  gleams   a   bright   vevolving    light,   which 
every   sixty  seconds   emerges   out   of   darkness, 
shines  full  in  our  faces  for  an    instant  with  its 
Polyphemus  eye,  then  slowly  recedes   and   dis- 
appears into  darkness  again  for  another  minute. 
Hoarsely  and  savagely  the  waves  beat  against 
the  rocks,  albeit  they  are   singing  a  s,cntle  lul- 
laby compared  with  the  noise  they  would  make 
should  u  storm  arise.     The   tide   is   coming    in 
now,  and   a   few  rods   from   tiie   shore,  where, 
an  hour  ago,  a  ledge  of  rocks  rose  high  out  of 
the  water,  only  the  long  backbone  of  the  ledge 


wc    have    no 
i,"    nor     even 
two  weeks. 
,  and  vvc   can 
own    in    great 

nklc  abont  us, 
fth   magnitude 
of  the   fishcr- 
ri    that    shines 
ray  in  the  dis- 
;    light,   which 
t    of   darkness, 
nstant  with  its 
:edes   and    dis- 
nother  minute, 
es  beat  against 
g  a  jjCntle  Inl- 
ay would  make 
is   coming    in 
shore,  where, 
)se  high  out  of 


ne  of  the  ledge 


I/O IV  TO  ENJOY  THEAf. 


"5 


appears,  and  it  takes  but  little  imagination  to 
call  it  some  terrible  sea-serpent,  ami  ourselves 
and  companions  trembling  Laocoons  awaiting 
his  approach.  You  will  notice  that  tlie  fresh 
sea  breeze  has  a  remarkable  vivifying  eflect 
upon  one's  memories  of  Virgil. 

'•  Pile  on  the  drift-wood.  Jack,  and  let  us  have 
a  rousing  old  fire  to  inspire  the  stories.  Why, 
each  of  these  sticks  and-  branches  in  our  wood- 
pile has  a  tale,  if  we  could  only  unfold  it. 
Who  knows  from  what  far-away  land  that  piece 
of  board  drifted  ?  From  Brazil,  perhaps,  or  from 
Norway  or  Australia.  That  withered  palm- 
branch  and  piece  of  bamboo  have  had  quite  a 
journey  surely." 

If  you  could  see  into  the  darkness  of  the  tent, 
you  would  notice  stretched  out  with  the  rest  of 
us  one  or  two  brown  and  brawny  toilers  of 
the  sea,  who,  attracted  by  our  camp  fire,  have 
come  up  "  to  hear  the  news,"  or  to  ask  "  the 
good  word." 

We  are  glad  to  see  them,  for  capital  Mun- 
chausens  are  these  fishermen,  regular  Scheherc- 


KM 


iilM 


126 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


zades,   whose   stock  of  wonderful   tales   would 
save  their  lives  more  than  a  thousand  and  one 
nights  with  any  story-loving  sultan  of  the  Indies. 
A  few  judicious   questions   asked   in   a   non- 
chalant way  \/ill  set  tiiese  sunburnt  visitors  of 
ours   to   reeling   ofl'  yarns  which   quite   eclipse 
the  stories  of  Captain  Marryat  himself.     Indeed, 
on  any  piscatorial  point,  wliether  the  discourse 
touches   upon   the   number   of  cunners   he   can 
skin  in  a  minute,  or  upon  the  size  of  the  whale 
he   saw  last  year,  our  fisherman  is  ready  with 
facts   and   figures   astounding   cnougli   to   make 
any  veracious  landsman  shudder;  ar.d  v-.ry  em- 
phatically do  we  pronounce    all  his  yarns, /f^A- 
slories. 

Occasionally,  too,  one  of  us  ventures  a  story, 
not,  to  be  sure,  in  any  spirit  of  rivalry  with  the 
marine  Munchausen,  but  just  by  way  of  variety. 
Sometimes  a  conundrum  goes  around  the  circle, 
and  is  tlien,  of  course,  given  up ;  and  so  tlie 
time  passes,  until,  before  we  know  it,  the  evening 
is  gone  ;  the  deep,  regular  breathing  of  one  after 
another  of  the  party  announces  his  departure  for 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


127 


tales  would 
and  and  one 
if  the  Indies, 
d  in  a  nott' 
lit  visitors  of 
quite  eclipse 
jclf.  Indeed, 
the  discourse 
nicrs  he  caa 
of  the  whale 
is  ready  with 
igh  to  make 
ar,d  V -ry  em- 
is  yarns  ^iA- 

itures  a  story, 
'airy  with  the 
'ay  of  variety, 
ind  the  circle, 
;  and  so  the 
it,  the  evening 
ig  of  one  after 
i  departure  for 


dream-land,  and  the  rest  declare  that  it  is  time 
to  turn  in  for  the  night. 

So  we  fasten  the  tent  flap,  dowse  the  glim  hy 
turning  the  candle  end  for  end  in  the  black  bottle 
which  serves  as  a  candlestick,  u  h1  tiicn  coil  our- 
selves cosily  in  our  blankets.  A  verbatim  report 
of  what  is  said  and  done  during  one  of  these  glori- 
ous evenings  in  camp,  however  enjoyably  the  time 
is  in  reali.y  spent,  would  be  very  flat  and  common- 
place reading.  The  sailor's  exploits  would  be 
pronounced  very  poor  extravaganza,  the  stories 
tame,  and  the  conundrums  stupid ;  and  so  they 
would  sound ;  for,  in  order  to  appreciate  them, 
you  must  listen  to  them  with  the  solemn  roll  of 
the  sea  in  your  ears,  and  with  the  ruddy  nrc-light 
dancing  and  flickering  over  a  circle  of  brown 
figures  in  blue  shirts.  You  should  be  lying  in  a 
tent,  too,  with  a  dim  candle  in  the  back  part  of  it 
barely  giving  light  enough  to  make  the  dark 
corners  weird  and  ghostly,  peopling  them  with 
phantoms,  and  transforming  the  stove,  and  the 
provision  basket  hung  from  the  ridge-pole,  into 
gnomes  and  afrits,  and  the  wraiths  of  departed 


suppers  wliich  they  have  cooked  or  held.  You 
may  be  sure  that  Sam,  and  Tom,  and  Dick,  and 
their  stories,  arc  entirely  ditlcrent  atVairs  under 
such  circumstances  from  what  they  are  when 
seen  by  the  aid  of  prosaic  printer's  ink  alone. 

The  next  morning  we  must  be  up,  bright  and 
early,  to  catch  our  breakfast,  for  the  nippers  are 
particularly  eager  to  take  our  hooks  at  this  time 
of  day,  especially  if  the  tide  happens  to  be  pretty 
well  in  at  the  same  time. 

In  their  dory,  a  few  rods  from  the  rocks,  are 
our  friends,  who  visited  us  the  preceding  evening, 
busily  engaged  in  examining  their  lobster-traps. 

From  some  of  the  traps  they  pull  out  eight  or 
ten  of  the  green,  ungainly  creatures,  while  some 
yield  only  two  or  three,  and  others  none  at  all. 
Then,  having  emptied  the..-  traps,  they  rebait 
them  with  sculpins  or  other  fish  otVal,  and  sink 
them  again,  to  beguile  more  of  their  many-legged 
victims. 

But  wiiat  does  that  hullabaloo  from  the  point 
of  rocks  where  Tom  is  fishing,  mean? 

We  all  run  to   the  spot,  ready  for  any  excite- 


HJi 


held.  You 
u\  Dick,  and 
ilVairs  under 
y  are  when 
ink  alone. 
),  bright  and 
I  nippers  are 
I  at  this  time 
i  to  be  pretty 

he  rocks,  are 
ling  evening, 
)bster-traps. 
1  out  eight  or 
3,  while  some 

none  at  all. 
i,  tiiey  rebait 
Hal,  and    sink 

many-legged 

rom  the  point 

;an? 

or  any  excite- 


ment, and  fnul  that  Tom's  shouts  of  triumph 
arise  from  his  capture  of  a  fine  rock-cod,  whose 
blood-red  scales  glisten  in  the  sun-light  as  he 
holds  it  up  to  our  view.  A  lucky  catch,  Tom ; 
for  there  is  a  good  meal  in  hini  alone,  and  no 
one  need  sneeze  at  a  fresh  rock-cod  for  break- 
fast. 

The  rock-cod  (so  called  because  generally 
caught  near  rocky  shores)  resembles  the  ordi- 
nary cod  in  shape,  but  is  distinguished  by  his 
brighter  colors,  being  the  most  brilliant  of 
all  the  fish  we  shall  capture. 

The  rock-cod,  too,  is  generally  smaller  than 
the  deep-water  variety,  and  its  flesh  is  considered 
more  delicate. 

Of  the  fish  we  catch  from  the  rocks,  the  sea- 
perch  (called  by  tlie  fishermen,  indificrently, 
"  cunners,"  or  "  nippers")  arc  by  far  the  most 
lumierous.  Indeed,  you  can  hardly  drop  a  line 
from  the  rocks  at  any  point  along  tlie  coast  from 
Labrador  to  the  Gulf  without  getting  a  bite  from 
these  gamy  little  fish. 

They  vary  in  size  from  three   inches  to  a  foot 


130 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


in  lon;,'tli,  Ihoujjli  tlioy  rarely  wcijjh  over  u 
pound,  and  tlicy  vary  in  color  as  well.  For  the 
most-part  they  are  dark  above  and  light  below, 
with  wide  bands  of  bright  color. 

Sometimes,  however,  we  haul  up  a  fellow  who 
is  nearly  black  throughout ;  and  again  a  bleached 
specimen,  of  a  decidedly  light  orange  color, 
comes  to  the  surface.  Whether,  in  the  land  of 
the  cunners,  the  blondes  or  brunettes  are  consid- 
ered more  heautifid,  we  have  never  discovered. 
Perhaps  tastes  dilVer  there  as  well  as  in  other 
circles. 

Like  their  relatives,  the  perch  of  fresh-water 
streams,  they  bite  boldly,  and  are  very  voracious, 
so  that  when  our  clams  are  cxiiausted  we  can 
use  for  bait  pieces  of  their  dead  brethren,  which 
wc  have  before  caught. 

Wood,  in  his  Natural  History,  relates  an  anec- 
dote of  a  gentleman  who  hooked  a  perch,  but 
unfortunately  tore  out  the  eye  of  the  poor  crea- 
ture without  catching  it.  lie  adjusted  the  eye 
on  the  hook,  and  replaced  it  in  the  water,  where 
it  had   hardly    been  a  minute    before  the   float 


rcij^li  over  a 
'cU.     For  the 

I  light  below, 

a  fellow  who 
liii  a  bleached 
orange   color, 

II  the  land  of 
:es  are  consid- 
ir  discovered. 
1  as  in  other 

of  fresh-water 
cry  voracious, 
listed  we  can 
icthreii,  which 

Dlates  an  anec- 
d  a  perch,  but 
the  poor  crea- 
iustcd  the  eye 
:  water,  where 
;fore  the   float 


was  violently  drawn  under  the  surface.  The 
angler,  of  course,  struck,  and  found  he  had  cap- 
tured a  fine  perch.  This,  when  landed,  was  dis- 
covered to  be  tile  same  one  which  had  just  been 
inulilatcd,  and  which  had  actually  lost  its  life  by 
devouring  its  own  eye. 

Izaak  Walton  quaintly  observes,  in  regard  to 
the  perch  (though  he  speaks  of  the  fresh-water 
variety),  "  If  there  be  t\venty  or  forty  in  a  hole, 
they  may  be  all  caught  at  one  standing,  one 
after  anodicr  ;  they  being,  like  the  wicked  of  the 
world,  not  afraid,  though  their  friends  and  com- 
panions perish  in  their  sight." 

When  the  water  is  dear,  and  not  too  deep,  it 
is  a  curious  thing  to  watch  a  school  of  cuniicrs 
playing  around  your  hook. 

First  a  lot  of  small  fry  will  rush  out  of  the  se.i- 
wcod,  and  have  a  regular  swimming  match  with 
each  other  to  see  which  will  first  reach  your 
bait. 

There  — a  little  fellow  grabs  it,  and  runs  off 
vigorously,  three  or  four  feet  from  his  compan- 
ions, like  a  greedy  chicken.     But  he  is  too  small 


9SB1^^7 


mmm 


to  swallow  the  hook,  and  only  steals  a  little  piece 

of  the  bait. 

But  look  now  !  there  comes  a  good  half-pound- 
er, slowly  gliding  out  of  his  dark  corner  in  the 
cool  sea-weed.     Uov.  inditVercnt  and  careicss  he 
looks !  scarcely  deigning  to  glance  at  the  bait,  or 
the  crowd  of  youngsters  about  it,  like  a  young 
dandy  to  whom  the  world  is  as  uninteresting  as 
a  squeezed  orange,  and  who  considers  it  undig- 
nified to  express  wonder  or  surprise  at  i  i. -thing. 
For  a  moment  he  keeps  himself  poised  by  the 
gentlest   possible    motion   of  his   fins,  and  then 
turns  back  into  his  hole,  and  you  think  you  have 
seen  the  last  of  him. 

•  But  wait  a  moment  longer  ;  he  will  think  bet- 
ter of  it.  There  !  out  of  the  sea-weed  something 
rushes  like  a  flash  ;  the  baby  cunners  scatter  in 
every  direction ;  your  hook  is  seized  with  a  de- 
termined jerk,  and  a  moment  later  you  have  him 
on  the  rock  beside  you,  all  his  dignity  and  in- 
diflerence  gone ;  now  he  is  nothing  but  a  poor, 
feisping  cunner,  flapping,  in  a  very  ungraceful 
sort  of  a  way,  in  a  basket  full  of  his  companions 


i  a  little  piece 

)cl  half-pound- 
corner  in  the 
ul  careless  he 
at  the  bait,  or 

like  a  young 
ninteresting  as 
ders  it  undig- 
ie  at  i  ii -tiling. 

poised  by  file 
fins,  and  then 
hink  you  have 

will  think  bet- 
,reed  something 
ners  scatter  in 
zed  with  a  de- 
r  you  have  him 
dignity  and  in- 
ng  but  a  poor, 
rery  ungraceful 


his  companions 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


133 


in  misery  —  a  sad  contrast,  my  poor  fellow,  to 
your  lordly  movements,  a  few  moments  ago, 
among  your  small  brethren  in  your  own  ele- 
ment. 

Perhaps  there  is  a  moral  here  for  the  young 
swell,  whose  home  is  not  in  the  sea-weed,  to  stick 
to  his  own  element,  and  not  get  out  of  his  depth, 
like  the  unfortunate  cunner ;  —  but  this  book  is 
not  a  sermon  to  young  swells. 

Sometimes,  instead  of  the  quick,  decided  bite 
of  the  cunner  or  nipper,  from  which  way  of  bit- 
ing the  sea-perch  derives  his  latter  name,  we 
feel  our  line  slowly  and  heavily  drawn  under, 
and  pulling  it  up  with  considerable  difficulty,  we 
find  dangling  from  the  end  one  of  the  ugliest 
specimens  of  the  genus  ^/j«j  that  swims  the  sea. 
With  a  head  bigger  than  all  the  rest  of  him, 
split  entirely  in  two  by  a  most  unfashionable 
sized  mouth,  with  great,  dull,  stony  eyes,  with 
blotches  of  livid  colors  scattered  irregularly  over 
his  body,  and  with  ugly  spines,  nine  on  each 
side  of  his  head,  like  a  base  ball  mustache  (to 
repeat  an  old  joke),  the  sculpin  is  certainly  a 
frightful  looking  fish. 


??SP 


'^m^^":'^- 


lie  prowls  along  the  bottom,  seeking  what 
crustacctc  he  may  devour ;  and  if  our  hook  hap- 
pens to  come  in  his  way,  he  sucks  it  in  without 
hesitation,   since  all   is   grist  that  comes  to   his 

mill. 

The  sculpin  is  universally  detested  by  fisher- 
men, since  he  is  worthless  for  food,  difficult  to 
handle,  and  moreover,  drives  away  other  fish  from 
the  neighborhood,  So  we  follow  the  fisherman's 
usual  custom  of  braining  the  poor  fellow  before 
we  throw  him  back  into  the  water  (which  is  the 
only  method  yet  discovered  to  prevent  his  biting 
again),  and  then  drop  in  our  hooks  once  more. 
Perhaps  this  time  we  feel  a  savage  pull,  and  our 
line  is  run  out  to  its  full  length.  We  may  be 
pretty  sure  that  this  bite  is  from  a  pollock  ;  aufl  if 
we  succeed  in  landing  him,  we  shall  find  we  have 
caught  a  handsome  fish,  with  a  graceful,  slender 
form,  and  bright,  silvery  scales. 

The  pollock  we  catch  near  the  shore  generally 
weigh  from  one  to  two  :<'i-ids;  those  caught 
in  deep  water  have  sci'  ;i  'cs  been  known 
to  weigh  thirty  pounds.     For  -cr)y  this  fish  was 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


^"hS 


>ckins;  what 
iir  liook  liap- 
it  ill  without 
onies  to   his 

;d  by  fishcr- 
I,  difficult  to 
thcr  fish  from 
e  fisherman's 
fellow  before 
[which  is  the 
cut  his  biting 
1  once  more, 
pull,  and  our 

We  may  be 
)llock ;  and  if 

find  we  have 
iceful,  slender 

lore  generally 
those  caught 
been  known 
this  fish  was 


considered  almost  worthless  for  food,  as  the 
flesh  is  quite  soft ;  but  wc  shall  find  that  they 
make  a  very  good  fry,  if  eaten  as  soon  as  they 
get  through  wriggling. 

We  shall  probably,  too,  make  the  acquaint- 
ance of  the  flounder  in  the  course  of  our  fishing 
from  the  rocks ;  and  a  curious  figure  he  cuts  as 
we  see  him  on  the  bottom,  through  the  clear 
water,  floundering  along  in  his  party-colored  cos- 
tume, like  a  state  prison  convict,  brown  on  one 
side  and  white  on  the  other,  with  his  goggle  eyes 
both  on  the  upper  side  of  his  head,  peering 
around  for  his  grub. 

The  tautog  is  another  fish  which  we  shall 
sometimes  catch,  and  quite  a  prize  we  shall  con- 
sider him,  for  fried  tautog  is  justly  deemed  a 
delicacy.  The  tautog  generally  weighs  two 
pounds  or  over,  and  much  resembles  an  enlarged 
cunner,  except  that  it  is  darker  colored  and 
thicker. 

But  while  we  have  been  discussing  the  difler- 
ent  kinds  of  fish  that  visit  our  hook,  others  of  the 
party  have   not  been   idle;  and  now,  by  seven 


*'!:'-^:.Ari'm!iw»ms:' 


136 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


o'clock,  with  our  dinners  and  rock-cod,  we  sure- 
ly have  a  fair  prospect  of  a  breakfast,  and  Sam 
suggests  that  we  try  our  hand  at  a  chowder. 

The  motion  being  seconded,  and  unanimously 
agreed  to,  we  turn  our  attention  to  skinning  the 
cunners,  slicing  the  potatoes,  and  getting  the  fire 
well  under  way.  In  our  deepest  pan  we  place 
first,  a  layer  of  fish,  then  a  stratum  of  potatoes, 
with  some  chij  ;  of  salt  pork,  and  a  few  slices  of 
onion  thrown  in  if  we  have  them ;  cover  these 
with  hard  tack  ;  then  add  other  strata  of  fish,  pota- 
toes, and  hard  tack,  until  the  dish  is  full.  Season 
each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  add  enough 
water  to  keep  the  chowder  from  burning. 

■Let  the  whole  stratified  compound  sizzle  on 
the  stove,  until  tlie  potatoes  are  soft,  and  the  fish 
peels  off  the  bones ;  and  then,  if  aunt  Susan 
should  rail  at  us  because  we  have  left  out  the 
milk,  and  Monsieur  Blot  should  look  contemp- 
tuously over  the  omission  of  the  inevitable  bread 
crumbs,  we  can  laugh  in  their  faces,  and  tell 
them  we  are  very  sure  that  a  chowder  never 
tasted  better. 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


137 


cod,  we  sure- 
jst,  and  Sam 
a  chowder, 
unanimously 
skinning  the 
;tting  the  fire 
)an  we  place 

of  potatoes, 
few  slices  of 
;  cover  these 
1  offish,  pota- 
full.  Season 
:1  add  enough 
aurning. 
ind  sizzle  on 
,  and  the  fish 

aunt  Susan 
!  left  out  the 
)ok  contcmp- 
jvitable  bread 
ces,  and  tell 
lowder  never 


Besides  chowders  and  fries,  our  bill  of  fare 
may  be  varied  with  fresh  lobsters,  which  the 
fishermen  will  be  glad  to  sell  us  for  five  cents 
apiece,  with  crabs  and  clams  of  our  own  cap- 
turing, and  to  any  greater  extent,  that  our  in- 
clinations and  the  resources  of  the  neighboring 
country  store  will  allow. 

To  the  hearty  lover  of  nature  nothing  can  be 
more  enjoyable  than  these  days  spent  at  our  sea- 
shore camp,  the  whole  coast  so  swarms  with 
animal  life  of  the  lower  grades.  Every  rock  we 
sit  on,  which  is  ever  touched  by  the  sea  waves, 
is  rough  with  little  white  cockle-shells,  whose 
owners  we  shall  find  snugly  coiled  up  within, 
if  we  ever  burglariously  break  into  the  minute 
abode. 

Every  wave  that  rolls  at  our  feet  brings  to  us 
some  form  of  ocean  life. 

Perhaps  it  is  the  sun-fish,  or  jelly-fish,  which 
moves  through  the  water  with  a  most  graceful 
undulating  motion,  contracting  and  expanding 
exactly  like  an  umbrella.  Very  delicate  and 
edible   does  the  jelly-fish  appear  at  first  sight, 


■,SM^,,iim'Mf)m?:, 


like  the  clearest  of  gelatine;  but  let  him  lie 
on  the  hot  rocks  and  evaporate  in  the  sunshine 
until  the  next  high  tide,  and  scarcely  :v  trace 
of  him  can  be  found,  since  he  leaves  no  skel- 
eton for  future  archicological  societies  to  wran- 
gle over. 

Or  perhaps  the  wave  presents  to  us  a  five-rayed 
starfish,  or  brings  along  the  deserted,  bleached, 
and  curiously  corrugated  shell  of  a  sea-virchin,  or 
a  sea-cucumber,   which  so   much  resembles  his 
namesake  of  the  garden  that  we  are  inclined  to 
throw  him  at  once   into   our   pickle-keg.     Per- 
haps it  is  only  a  long,  slim,  slippery  sea-weed 
that   the    tide    brings   up,    with    some    unfortu- 
nate bivalve  which   has  taken  up  his  abode  in 
its   roots;    or    possibly,  as    the  wave  recedes,  a 
back-action    crab  will    come  out  of  his  crevice 
in    the   rock   to   see   what   is   going  on   in   the 
world.     Luckless  shell-fish  these  tha;    ome  with- 
in our  range  of  vision,  for  the  crab  robbed  of 
his  sea-weed  covering  will  soon  be  broken  up 
for  bait,  and  Cancer  himself  will  speedily  go  to 
pot  to  be  served  up  at  our  next  meal. 


HOIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


139 


let  him  lie 
he  sunshine 
sly  u  trace 
res  no  skel- 
es  to  wran- 

a  five-rayed 
d,  bleached, 
;a-urchin,  or 
;semblcs  his 
!  inclined  to 
>keg.  Per- 
iry  sea-weed 
me  unfortu- 
lis  abode  in 
e  recedes,  a 

his  crevice 
J  on  in  the 
;  ome  with- 
b  robbed  of 
c  broken  up 
peedily  go  to 
lenl. 


It  is  not  probable  that  fishing  for  nippers  from 
the  rocks  will  satisfy  the  piscatorial  desires  of 
such  enthusiastic  anglers  as  are  we,  and  without 
doubt  we  shall  want  to  devote  one  day,  and 
perhaps  several,  to  deep-sea  fishing  for  cod,  and 
haddock,  and  mackerel. 

Then  we  must  charter  a  fishing-smack,  and  a 
skipper  to  navigate  the  craft  and  furnish  the 
lines  and  bait.  An  hour's  sail,  with  a  fair 
breeze,  ought  to  bring  us  to  the  fishing-grounds, 
w'lich  our  old  Palinurus  knows  as  well  as  we 
know  our  father's  door-yard,  for  fishes  are  not, 
as  many  suppose,  scattered  uniformly  through- 
out the  ocean,  but  live  together  in  communi- 
ties, largely,  and  leave  other  parts  of  the  sea 
very  thinly  inhabited. 

So  it  is  the  business  of  the  experienced  tar 
who  is  with  us  to  avoid  the  desert  and  to  guide 
us,  if  possible,  to  the  very  Pekin  of  fishdom. 
N':"W,  when  we  have  cast  anchor,  we  will  bait 
our  stout  hooks  with  a  generous  piece  of  clam 
and  sink  them  as  many  fathoms  deep  as  our 
skipper  advises.     Perhaps  we  shall  have  to  wait 


140 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


long  and  patiently  for  tlic  first  bite,  and  per- 
haps, 01.  the  other  liand,  tlie  line  will  hardly 
straigiiteii  itself  out  before  a  great  jerk  will  an- 
nounce tliat  tlie  bait  has  been  favorably  received 
in  the  regions  below.  Cod  and  haddock  are 
botii  strong  and  sure  biting  fish,  and  one  rarely 
fails  to  draw  them  in. 

Sometimes  each  member  of  a  codding  party 
will  catch  great  fish  at  the  rate  of  one  a  min- 
ute for  hours,  and  a  muscle-tiring  kind  of  work 
it  then  becomes.  Most  of  the  fisii  we  shall 
catch  \^\\\  probably  not  run  over  eight  or  ten 
pounds  in  weight.  They  grow  to  a  much  larger 
size,  however,  often  weighing  fiftv  or  sixty  and 
sometimes  a  hundred  pounds.  A  most  impor- 
tant industry,  as  we  all  know,  is  the  cod  fish- 
ery, not  only  to  our  own  sea-coast  towns,  but 
to  the  French  and  Canadian  fishermen  who  fre- 
quent the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  Newfound- 
land's banks. 

An  inexhaustible  aquarium,  too,  has  tlie  fish- 
erman to  draw  from,  and  he  need  have  no  fears 
that  the  supply  will  give  out,  when  he  remem- 


I/O  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


141 


)ite,  and  per- 
2  will    hardly 

jerk  will  iin- 
lably  received 

haddock  are 
lid  one  rarely 

:odding  party 

f  one  a  min- 

kind  of  work 

Isli    we    shall 

eight  or   ten 

X  much  larger 

or  sixty  and 

most   impor- 

thc  cod  fish- 

5t  towns,  but 

men  who  fre- 

id  Newfound- 

has  the  fish- 
liave  no  fears 
n  he  remem- 


i 


bcrs  that  at  every  spawning,  a  single  cod  ilcpos- 
its  over  a  million  eggs.  To  be  sure,  very  few 
of  these  eggs  hatch  out  infant  codlings,  but  for 
the  most  part  they  are  destroyed  by  ravenous 
fish  before  even  a  fin  or  scale  appears. 

And  well  is  it  that  it  is  so,  for  it  has  been 
estimated  that,  in  a  very  limited  number  of 
years,  if  every  egg  were  allowed  to  develop  into 
a  full-grown  cod,  the  whole  ocean  would  be  sj 
thickly  filled  with  them  that  navigation  would 
be  entirely  stopped.  But  we  shall  be  likely  to 
find  the  actual  state  of  alVairs  very  diflerent  from 
this  sitting  with  arms  resting  over  the  taflVail, 
waiting  for  the  first  unwary  fish  to  bite,  and 
doubtless  wishing  that  Providence  had  allowed 
a  few  more  eggs  to  come  to  matinity. 

The  haddock,  which  is  caught  quite  as  often 
as  his  cousin  the  cod,  is  usually  about  the 
same  size,  and  resembles  him  much  in  gen- 
eral appearance.  Haddock  abound  all  along 
our  coast,  in  summer  far  outnumbering  the  cod, 
while  in  winter  the  order  is  reversed,  and  cod 
are  more  numerous.     The  haddock  may  be  dis- 


tiiigiiishcd  by  a  Mack  lino  wliicli  cxtciuls  down 
cac!>  side  from  the  gills  to  the  tail,  as  well  as  by 
a  dark  spot,  about  the  size  of  a  thrcc-ceiit  piece, 
on  citiicr  side  of  the  head.  Among  Roman 
Catholic  fishermen  there  is  a  legend  tiiat  this  is 
the  fish  which  brought  up  the  tribute-money  at 
the  command  of  our  Lord,  and  that  the  dark 
spots  under  the  gills  are  the  marks  of  Peter's 
fingers. 

Perhaps  the  monotony  of  cod  and  haddock  will 
be  broken  by  the  advent  on  tleck  of  an  ugly, 
spiny-backed,  long-tailed  scate  ;  and  possibly  one 
of  the  party  will  be  fortunate  enough  to  hook 
a  halibut.  If  this  should  happen,  all  will  excit- 
edly gather  around  the  lucky  man  to  witness  the 
struggle. 

Even  the  skipper,  to  whom  cod  and  haddock 
fishing  is  a  dull,  old  story,  lays  aside  his  black 
T.  D.,  and  shows  something  like  interest  in  the 
matter.  How  the  line  rattles  over  the  rail  as  the 
great  fish  makes  a  dive  for  the  bottom  !  Now  it 
slackens  as  he  returns,  and  it  is  necessary  to  pull 
a  little  on  the  line,  to  see  if  he  is  exhausted.    But 


I 


J 


extends  clown 
as  well  as  by 
cc-ceiit  piece, 
non}»  Roman 
id  tliat  this  is 
butc-moncy  at 
hat  the  dark 
•ks   of  Peter's 

I  haddock  will 
<.  of  an  iigly» 
;1  possibly  one 
oiiyh  to  hook 
all  will  excit- 
to  witness  the 

and  haddock 
side  his  black 
interest  in  the 
the  rail  as  the 
ttom !  Now  it 
cessary  to  pull 
xhausted.    But 


ii 


//0/r  7V  LA-yoy  them. 


•43 


he  is  still  too  fresh  to  fjivc  up  tlie  fi{i[Iit,  and  od'  he 
siioots  at  a  tan<<ent,  nearly  takin<^  his  captor  with 
him.  Now  to  the  rijjiit,  now  to  the  left,  and 
then  straijjht  down  he  rushes;  but  even  a  halibut 
cannot  struj^gle  forever,  and  by  and  by,  complete- 
ly worn  out,  the  noble  fellow  is  drawn  on  deck. 
"A  hundred  pounder,  if  he  weighs  an  ounce," 
says  the  skipper,  sentcntiously. 

VV^e  must  spend  at  least  one  half  day,  before  we 
break  camp,  in  trolling  for  blueflsh  —  the  most 
exciting  of  all  kinds  of  sea-fishing. 

As  we  stand  here  on  the  rocks,  do  yon  see  that 
commotion  out  in  the  water  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore?  That  is  caused  by  a  school  of  bluelish, 
and  some  of  those  savage  fellows,  who  are  proba- 
bly now  foraging  for  their  breakfast,  and  bringing 
terror  and  destruction  to  smaller  lish,  we  nuist 
iiave  in  our  frying-pan  this  noon.  So  we  jump 
into  the  dory  and  row  out  to  tlie  scene  of 
action. 

The  tackle  for  this  kind  of  fishing  is  rather 
peculiar ;  since,  instead  of  using  any  bait,  we 
simply  have  a  piece  of  bright  metal  or  jig,  as  it 


is  cmI1c(I,  iitt.'iclicd  with  a  huok  to  a  strong  line. 
Let  one  of  the  party  row  tlic  tlory  alonj^side  of 
tiic  sciu)(jl  at  a  niocicrato  latc,  while  llie  rest  of 
the  party  throw  out  jij^s,  wiiicii  the  motion  of  the 
boat  is  sudicient  to  keep  floating  on  tiic  sur- 
face of  the  water.  IJut  the  eager  hiuctisii  will 
not  give  time  for  so  many  wortls  of  explana- 
tion, before,  with  a  llercu  splash,  he  seizes  the 
glittering  metal,  ami  is  jerked  into  tiic  boat. 

The  next  moment  the  spoon  (as  the  jig  is 
often  called)  is  again  floating  on  the  wave,  to 
beguile  a  fresh  victim. 

We  m'  'c  careful,  however,  wiien  pulling  in, 
to  keep  le  taut,  since,  if  he  has  a  chance, 

the  blucfish  will  eschew  the  spoon,  not  finding  it 
as  iligcstible  a  morsel  as  he  anticipated,  and  will 
tlisengagc  himself  from  the  hook.  If  there  is 
better  sport  than  trolling  for  bluelish  on  a  clear, 
breezy  summer's  day,  pr.iy  let  the  world  know 
what  it  is ! 

From  its  resemblance  to  the  common  mack- 
erel, the  bluefish  is  often  called  the  horse-mack- 
erel, though   improperly,  for  the  horse-mackerel 


a  strun^r  line. 
;il()i)<^.si(lc  of 
e  llic  rest  of 
motion  of  tlic 

on  tlic   siir- 
biiicflsl)    will 

of   cxphma- 
hc  seizes  the 
llic  boat, 
as   the    jig   is 
the  wave,   to 

ten  pulling  in, 
has  a  chance, 
not  finding  it 
ated,  and  will 
.  If  there  is 
sh  on  a  clear, 
world   know 

mmon  mack- 
e  horse-mack- 
orse-mackcrel 


is  quite  u  ditVcrcnt  fish.  It  derives  its  name 
"  bluefish  "  from  the  color  of  the  upper  part 
of  its  body ;  and  we  shall  find,  at  dinner  time, 
that  it  is  just  as  capital  a  fish  to  eat  as  to 
catch. 

There  is  no  need,  at  this  late  point  of  the 
chapter,  to  say  that  there  is  no  danger  of  the 
long  summer  day  lianging  heavily  on  one's  hands, 
for  the  day's  duties  are  by  no  means  few  or 
quickly  accomplished.  To  catch  fish  enough  to 
feed  half  a  dozen  sea-shore  appetites  three  times 
a  day  is,  of  elf,  no  light  task,  to  say  nothing 
about  cooking  them.  Then  there  is  drift-wood  to 
collect,  and  bait  to  find,  and  new  places  about  the 
camp  to  explore,  and  at  least  two  baths  a  day  to 
take ;  so  there  is  not  so  much  time  as  might  at 
first  be  imagined  for  dignified  leisure,  or  for 
stretching  ourselves,  like  Turkish  sultans,  on  the 
divans  —  otherwise  called  army  blankets  —  of 
our  tent. 

The  daily  bath  is,  of  course,  one  of  the  great- 
est institutions  of  our  life  on  the  beach ;  and  of 

lO 


all  kinds  of  baths,  wc   give   the   preference  to 
those  taken  from  the  rocks  at  high  tide. 

Talk  about  moral  courage!  We  will  trust 
that  man  on  any  battle-field,  who  will  sit  quietly 
on  a  rock,  and  let  the  first  big  wave  dash  over 
him,  on  a  coolish  day,  when  the  water,  fresh 
from  the  open  sea,  seems  to  be  miraculously  pre- 
served from  freezing  at  a  mperature  far  below 
32°  Fahrenheit,  and  when  every  breatli  of  spray 
that  blows  against  him  feels  like  a  blast  from  the 
North  Pole.  It  is  amusing  to  watch  men  who 
have  cnly  the  ordinary  supply  of  fortitude  in  such 

a  place. 

After  the  process  of  disrobing  has  been  accom- 
plished, ard  the  flxntastic  livery  which  Neptune 
prescribes  for  his  receptions  has  been  donned,  the 
average  man  will  dance  about  upon  the  rocks  for 
an  unnecessarily  long  time,  as  though  this  were 
a  most  important  preliminary  to  a  bath.  Then 
he  will  place  one  foot  daintily  in  the  water,  an.l 
quickly  draw  it  back,  with  a  sudden  jerk,  that 
nothing  but  a  severe  bitt  from  a  gallinipper  can 
satisfactorily  explain. 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


H7 


preference   to 
h  tide. 

Ve  will  trust 
will  sit  quietly 
ive  dash  over 
e  water,  fresh 
•aculously  pre- 
ture  far  below 
reatli  of  spray 
blast  from  the 
itch  men  who 
irtitude  in  such 

as  been  accom- 
which  Neptune 
jen  donned,  the 
)n  the  rocks  for 
lOUgh  this  were 
a  bath.  Then 
the  water,  ami 
iddcn  jerk,  that 
gallinipper  can 


This  operation  will  be  repeated  a  dozen  times, 
more  or  less,  until,  apparently  ashamed  of  him- 
self, he  takes  his  seat  on  a  projecting  ledge  of 
rock,  which  the  incoming  tide  has  reached,  to 
wait  for  the  next  wave,  with  a  resolute  look  on 
his  face,  which  plainly  says,  "  I  won't  budge  this 
time  any  way."  Now  he  sees  it  coming,  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  off — the  monster  which  is  to  swallow 
him  up  if  he  keeps  his  seat.  As  the  wave  ap- 
proaches, the  courage  oozes  out  at  his  fingers' 
ends,  and  the  resolute  look  begins  slowly  to  fade 
from  his  face,  until,  just  at  the  critical  moment 
when  the  water  is  about  to  dash  over  him  with 
an  angry  swash,  up  he  jumps,  and  is  high  and 
dry  on  the  bank  above  befoi'e  the  wave  breaks 
upon  his  rock. 

However,  after  one  has  once  been  thoroughly 
wet  down,  one's  courage  to  (;mbrace  the  next 
wave  is  greatly  increased,  and  each  new  bil- 
low is  received  with  much  laughter  and  many 
shivering,  chattering  shouts  of  welcome  by  the 
bathers. 

And   now,   what   more    need   we   say?    You 


know  where  to  go,  what  to  do,  and  how  to  do  it ; 
and  when  we  add,  that  all  this,  af  a  careful  esti- 
mate, may  be  enjoyed  for  five  dollars  per  week, 
we  think  it  wonld  be  a  clear  waste  of  printer's 
ink  and  your  time  to  add  another  page  to  this 
chapter. 


how  to  do  it ; 
I  careful  csti- 
ns  per  week, 
c  of  printer's 
r  page  to  this 


NO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


149 


CHAPTER  V.  • 


DOWN      EAST. ST.     JOHN. PRINCE       EDWARD 

ISLAND. CAPE    BRETON.  —  HALIFAX. 

In  spite  of  the  comfortable  satisfaction  one 
feels  at  having  given  good  advice,  it  is  hardly  to 
be  supposed  that  our  counsel  has  been  so  gener- 
ally followed,  that  all  readers,  who  are  pondering 
how  they  will  pass  their  vacation,  have  either 
ordered  their  mountain  outfit,  or  picked  out  a 
camping-ground  at  the  sea-shore,  or  decided  to 
take  the  next  train  for  the  Dominion.  To  all 
who  are  still  undecided  we  assume  the  liberty 
of  putting  a  kw  catechetical  questions. 

Is  there  at  least  one  month  of  the  twelve  when 

*  Tlie  substance  of  a  part  of  this  chapter  appeared  in 
a  series  of  letters  written  by  the  author,  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1872,  to  the  Boston  Daily  Globe  and  to  the 
Congregationalist. 


•ii..-'i'»Mi»^in<m'^' ' 


ISO 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


it  is  )our  chief  end  and  aim  to  keep  cool?  Then, 
"  Young  Man,  go  East,"  —  go  to  the  Maritime 
Provinces. 

Have  you  about  a  hundred  dollars  to  spend 
on  your  summer  vacation?  There  is  no  place 
where  it  will  go  farther,  or  do  you  more  good, 
than  in  these  same  sea-coast  dominions  of  Her 

Majesty. 

Have  you  an  eye  for  the  beautiful  in  inanimate 
nature,  and  for  the  simple  and  unassuming  in 
human  nature?  Nowhere  can  you  find  these 
qualities  in  greater  perfection  than  among  the 
fertile  plains  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  or  the 
nigged  high  lands  of  Cape  Breton, 

Nothing  better  in  the  way  of  a  summer  cli- 
mate could  any  one  want,  than  he  will  find 
throughout  this  whole  region.  Here,  for  weeks 
at  a  time,  the  thermometer  never  rises  to  a  too 
dizzy  altitude  ;  the  sun's  heat  is  grateful  at  mid- 
day, and  no  longer  will  you  sigh  for  an  abode 
in  an  ice-house,  or  for  a  lodge  in  some  vast 
wilderness. 

Is   not  this  a  delightful   state  of  things,   and 


11 


HO IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


'5' 


cool?    Then, 
le  Maritime 

nrs  to  spend 
;  is  no  pluce 
I  more  good, 
nions  of  Her 

in  inanimate 
nassiiming  in 
>u  find  tiiese 
n  among  the 
shmd,  or  the 
n. 
I  summer  cli- 

he  will  find 
.■re,  for  weeks 
rises  to  a  too 
atcful  at  mid- 
for  an  abode 
in   some   vast 

f  things,  and 


would  not  you  enjoy  them?  Yea,  verily  ;  then 
meet  us  one  of  these  brij^iit  morniuf^s  at  tiie  cud 
of  Commercial  W'harl",  in  the  gooil  city  of  Huston, 
aiiti  with  a  St.  Joiui  ticket  in  our  pocket,  and  the 
smallest  possible  amount  of  baggage  in  our  hand, 
vvc  will  step  aboard  the  "  New  York  "  or  •*  City 
of  Portland,"  of  the  International  Line. 

As  the  clock  strikes  eigiit,  the  whistle  shrieks, 
the  cables  arc  loosed,  demonstrative  Bluenoses 
give  their  departing  friends  a  hasty  embrace,  the 
gangways  arc  hauled  in ;  the  vessel  quivers, 
throbs,  and  heaves ;  the  wheel  revolves,  and  — 
oft'  we  are,  steaming  through  the  shipping  of  the 
harbor. 

There  is  one  commodity  which  tiavellcrs 
"  Down  East,"  and,  for  that  matter,  the  world 
over,  we  suppose,  are  very  apt  to  forget  to  in- 
clude in  their  list  of  indispensables  when  about 
to  leave  home.  Yet  this  is  more  necessary  to 
one's  own  comfort  than  the  tooth-brush  or  the 
razor ;  and  if  one  of  a  company  has  forgotten  to 
take  it  with  him,  all  the  rest  lose  an  appreci- 
able  proportion   of  their   power   of   full   enjo^- 


152 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


mcnt.  The  afoiesaid  article  is  a  settled  purpose 
to  be  pleased  with  -whatever  one  sees. 

As  the  spires  and  chimneys  of  Boston  fade 
away  in  the  distance,  one  should  leave  among 
them  the  idea  (diough  it  may  require  the  greatest 
mental  eflbrt  of  which  the  traveller  is  capable) 
that  the  Old  Bay  State  and  her  sister  common- 
wealths are  the  only  really  desirable  places  on 
the  face  of  the  globe. 

He  should  not  fuul  fault  with  "  this  confounded 
fog,"  or  "  that  wretched  rain,"  which  is  expected 
to-morrow,  or  with  the  "  dreary  shores  of  that 
barren  province ;  "  but  he  should  call  the  fog 
"  invigorating,  if  it  is  a  little  moist,"  the  rocky 
bUifls  of  the  New  Brunswick  shore,  surmounted 
by  stunted  pine  trees,  "  grand  and  imposing ; " 
the  Dolly  Vardcn  light-houses,  built  of  alternate 
layers  of  red  and  wliite  bricks,  "  picturesque  ;  " 
and  the  occasional  little  beach  of  sand,  with 
the  fishers'  white  houses  near  by,  and  the  green 
fields  stretching  far  in  beyond,  "lovely  and 
charming." 

But   though    fault-finding  and   complaint    are 


tied  purpose 

'S. 

Boston  fade 
leave  among 
z  the  greatest 
■  is  capable) 
tcr  common- 
le  places  on 

s  confounded 
h  is  expected 
iiores  of  that 
call  the  fog 
:,"  the  rocky 
,  surmounted 
imposing ; " 
t  of  alternate 
licturesque ;  " 
f  sand,  with 
ml  the  green 
"  lovely   and 

)mplaint   are 


to  be  repressed,  don't  suppose  that  we  are  about 
to  waste  any  sickly  sentimentality  upon  "  tiie 
sea,  the  sea,  the  deep  blue  sea,"  or  "  life  on  the 
ocean  wave,"  and  all  that  sort  of  thing. 

"  Life  on  the  ocean  wave  "  may  be  a  very  nice 
aflair  when  enclosed  by  the  sides  of  a  music- 
rack,  and  no  sort  of  objection  can  be  made  to 
"  tl:c  deep  blue  sea,"  wlien  you  view  it  from 
terra  firma,  with  one  of  the  good,  old.  ever- 
fasting  rocks  under  your  feet;  but  a  diftcrent 
sort  of  a  thing  altogether  is  it  when  you  view 
those  same  blue  waves  from  the  steamer's  deck, 
caring  not  a  copper  whether  you  are  above  or 
below  them  — afraid  that  you  will  die  during 
the  first  hour,  and  equally  afraid  during  the 
second  that  you  will  not. 

If  you  have  a  deadly  enemy  upon  whom  you 
wish  to  be  revenged,  just  prevail  upo»i  him  to 
go  aboard  of  some  ocean  steamer;  and  then, 
during  the  first  chopping  sea,  while  he  is  leaning 
over  the  quarter-rail,  gazing  intently  upon  those 
"  deep  blue  waves,"  or  pretending  that  the  lemon 
he  holds  in  his  hand   is  the  most  delicious  of 


mm 


'54 


OC/Ji   VACATIONS. 


fruits,  just  ask   him  how  he  enjoys  "  life  on  the 
ocean  wave." 

All  this  hy  the  way,  iiowever. 

An  eiglit  hours'  sail  from  Boston  brings  us  to 
Portland,  and  as  the  steamer  lies  here  tor  an 
hour  or  two,  there  is  ample  opportunity  to  get 
a  glimpse  of  the  fine  buildings,  and  broad, 
tree-lined  avenues,  of  this  handsome  "  Forest 
City." 

Eastport,  the  next  stopping-place,  —  a  towiv, 
situatctl  near  the  entrance  of  Passamaquoddy 
Bay,  —  is  much  frequented  by  summer  visitors. 
The  waters  of  the  adjacent  bay  afibrd  fine  op- 
portunities for  yachting  and  fishing.  Directly 
across  the  harbor,  within  the  limits  of  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada,  lies  the  interesting  Island 
of  Campobello,  a  fovorite  resort  for  sailing  and 
chowder  parties. 

The  afternoon's  sail  will  be  delightful  by  the 
red  rocks  of  the  New  Brunswick  coast,  rising 
sheer  out  of  the  water  from  fifty  to  two  hundred 
feet. 

On  the  whole,  however,  the  bold,  rocky  shores, 


s  "  life  on  the 


111  brings  us  to 
s  here  for  an 
artunity  to  get 
>,  and  broad, 
some   "  Forest 

ice,  —  a  towtv. 
assaniaquoddy 
mmcr  visitors, 
afl'ord  fine  op- 
ling.  Directly 
its  of  the  Do- 
:resting  Island 
or  sailing  and 

lightful  by  the 
k  coast,  rising 
0  two  hundred 


J,  rocky  shores 


worn  smooth  by  the  continual  dashing  of  white 
waves,  and  crowned  with  low  i)inc  trees,  make 
one's  first  impression  of  New  Brunswick  grand 
and  picturesque,  rather  than  beautiful. 

But  St.  John  harbor,  which  is  readied  about 
sunset,  makes  up  for  all  the  loveliness  we  have 
lacked  before ;  for  nothing  can  be  more  charming 
than  the  islands  and  shores  clad  in  emerald 
green,  with  the  city  sitting  regally  on  a  blufl" 
that  rises  directly  out  of  the  water  on  one  side, 
and  the  smiling  slopes  of  Carleton  on  the  other, 
while  the  multitude  of  fishing-boats  and  larger 
craft:  give  an  air  of  life  and  animation  to  the 
scene. 

Even  the  model  tourist,  who  is  conscientiously 
determined  to  be  pleased  with  whatever  he  sees, 
will  be  a  little  disappointed  with  the  city  of  St. 
John  ;  for,  with  cities  as  with  men,  the  gods  never 
bestow  all  their  blessings  upon  the  same  individ- 
ual. And  St.  John,  though  unrivalled  in  sit- 
uation, presents  a  half-baked,  unfinished,  shiftless 
appearance,  which  is  hardly  pleasing  to  the 
eyes  of  u  Yankee  visitor. 


The  streets,  tlioiigli  wide  and  rcgulat .  are  not 
well  paved,  and  arc  not  paved  at  all  for  llie  most 
part ;  the  houses,  principally  of  wood,  are  of  a 
uniform  somljrc  brown  color,  which  gives  a 
dingy  appearance  to  the  whole  place,  and  there 
arc  no  buildings  of  particular  beauty. 

To-  this  last  statement,  however,  the  Victoria 
Hotel,  and  two  or  three  private  residences  on  the 
west  side  of  the  city,  form  pleasing  exceptions. 

Nevertheless  the  St.  Johnnies  are  very  proud 
of  their  city,  the  fourth  in  size  in  the  Domin- 
ion, and  justly  so  too ;  for  what  constitutes  a 
pleasant  city.?  Not  showy  buildings  and  well- 
paved  streets  alone,  by  any  means;  but  a 
•  pleasant  and  healthful  climate,  "first  chop" 
scenery,  as  Sam  Slick  would  say,  abundant 
and  cheap  markets,  and  hospitable  inhabitants; 
all  which  advantages  St.  John  possesses  in  full 
measure. 

One  is  struck,  on  first  walking  up  from  the 
wharf,  by  the  great  number  of  the  smallest  of 
hotels  that  are  to  be  seen,  each  burdened  with 
a  ridiculously  high-sounding  name.     Thus,  here 


C5iiil:ii ,  arc  not 
ill  for  llie  most 
,voo(l,  are  of  a 
vliich  gives  a 
lace,  and  there 
cauty. 

r,  the  Victoria 
sidences  on  the 
ing  exceptions, 
are  very  proud 
in  the  Domin- 
t  constitutes  a 
ings  and  wcll- 
incans ;  but  a 
"  first  chop  " 
say,  abundant 
lie  inhabitants ; 
osscsses  in   full 

g  up  from  the 
the  smallest  of 
burdened  with 
le.     Thus,  here 


is  a  shabby  wooden  building,  with  three  or  four 
windows  on  each  story,  whicii  a  flaming  sign 
over  the  door  informs  us  is  the  "  (Jrand  Inter- 
national Hotel."  That  "tile  martin-box  on  tiie 
light  is  the  "Revere,"  perchance,  and  the  one 
on  the  other  side  of  the  street  is  the  "  Royal 
Castle  House." 

The  interior  of  these  hotels,  however,  belies 
their  sign-boards  less  than  the  exterior,  and  by 
the  time  we  sit  down  to  the  bountiful  table  which 
the  attentive  landlord  will  spread  for  us,  we 
shall  begin  to  think  that  the  name  was  not  bo 
ill  chosen,  after  all. 

But  to  be  a  little  more  explicit  in  regard  to 
our  hotel :  the  choice  lies  between  the  Victoria 
House  (which  is  the  only  llrst-class  house  in  the 
city,  according  to  Boston  notions,  and  where  the 
charges  are  three  dollars  per  day)  and  any  one 
of  the  numerous  third,  fourth,  fifth,  down  to  fif- 
teenth-class houses  with  which  the  city  abounds. 

We  can  recommend  the  Grand  Central  Hotel, 
the  American  House,  or  the  VVaverley  House,  as 
furnishing  very   tolerable   accommodations  at  a 


158 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


moclcratc  price  —  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  fcr 
diem  \vc  believe. 

Willi  llic  exception  of  one  or  two  streets,  the 
buildings  arc  principally  of  wood,  and  a  few 
hours  of  a  Chicago  or  Boston  fire  would  lay  the 
whole  city  in  ashes.  A  descendant  of  Ham,  of 
whom  inquiry  was  made  for  a  sightly  place  to 
view  the  city,  replied,  with  a  royal  flourish  of 
his  ebony  palms,  "Jest  go  up  onto  this  yar  blutf, 
and  you  will  sec  de  whole  combustible."  Our 
sable  friend,  in  bis  desire  for  a  long  word,  used 
one  that  applies  to  St.  John  better,  probably, 
than  he  was  aware. 

The  people  of  St.  John,  as  well  as  all  whom 
.  we  shall  sec  throughout  the  province,  impress 
one  very  favorably.  A  healthier,  ruddier  set  of 
mrii  are  not  to  be  found  on  this  footstool,  and, 
as  Dr.  Lewis  would  say,  their  digestion  being 
good,  and  their  health  perfect,  we  fii.d  them 
always  ready  to  answer  the  thousand  questions 
which  a  stranger  is  moved  to  ask. 

No  sweltering  days  and  moist,  sticky,  unrest- 
ful  nights   do  we  here  experience ;   but,  as   an 


WM 


J  fifty  cents  fcr 

two  streets,  tlie 
)od,  and  a  few 
re  would  lay  the 
lant  of  Ham,  of 
sightly  place  to 
oyal  flourish  of 
to  this  yar  blutV, 
ibustiblc."  Our 
long  word,  used 
)cttcr,  probably, 

ell  as  all  whom 
rovince,  impress 
r,  ruddier  set  of 
is  footstool,  and, 
digestion  being 
,  we  fii.d  them 
)usand  questions 
iisk. 

t,  sticky,  unrest- 
icc ;   but,  as   an 


intelligent  kniglit  of  the  hod  assured  us,  "Ye 
may  walk  the  stratcs  all  day  ami  not  sweat  a 
drop,  and  at  night,  bedad,  ye  will  feel  the  good 
of  the  clothes!" 

The  air,  too,  is  remarkably  invigorating  — 
just  warm  enough,  just  cool  enough  ;  and  n  sea 
breeze  is  blowing  at  all  times  of  day,  the  city 
being  almost  surrounded  by  the  ocean. 

To    reach   Shediac,   vvhich   is  sometiiing    like 
a  hundred   miles   from   St.  John,  we   take   tlie 
European   and   North  American    Railway,  and 
are  whirled    through    the   very    heart   of   New 
Brunswick,  along  the  coast  of  the  IJay  of  Fundy. 
Past  snug  farm-houses  and  rich  farms  the  track 
leads  us ;  past  the  silvery  lake  near  Claremont, 
where  the  great  international  rowing  race  took 
place  —  a  race  which  proved  to  be  the  last  for 
poor  Renforth ;  and  our  time-tal)le  says  that  we 
are   borne  through  villages  bearing  the   euplio- 
nious  names  of  Qiiispnnisis,  Passekcag,  Apoha- 
qui,  Plumvvesccp,  and  Anagance.     Hut   furtiier 
deponent  saith  not,  except  that  all  these  much- 
named  towns  present  a  singular  though  hardly 


pleasing  uniformity,  since  they  invariably  con- 
sist of  a  good  station,  a  wretched  grocery  store 
and  groggery  combined,  and  an  extensive  mud- 
puddle. 

Moncton,  one  of  the  largest  towns  on  our 
route,  contains  son\e  fine  railroad  repair-shops, 
and  some  unusually  extensive  mud-puddles, 
which  would  seem  to  render  gondolas  indispen- 
sable. Years  ago  Moncton  was  a  town  of  con- 
siderable importance,  being  at  the  head  of  the 
main  branch  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy ;  but  for 
many  years  past  Fathi  r  Ti'nc  li.is  done  pretty 
much  as  he  pleased  wit'i  the  old  town,  rotting 
a  house  here  and  another  there,  tumbling  down 
this  wall  and  starting  a  growth  of  weeds  and 
grass  in  that  street,  until  we  could  easily  have 
imagined  it  to  be  the  veritable  deserted  village 
of  which  the  poet  sung.  Very  recently,  how- 
ever, the  iron  road,  that  great  energizer  of  the 
modern  world,  has  begun  to  put  new  life  into 
the  grass-grown  streets  and  moss-grown  houses, 
and  the  town  is  quite  renewing  her  youth. 
At  Moncton  we  leave  the  valley  of  the  Bay  of 


nvariably  con- 
I  grocery  store 
extensive  imid- 

tovvns  on  our 
:1  repair-shops, 

mud-puddles, 
Jolas  indispen- 
\  town  of  con- 
e  head  of  the 
indy  ;  but  for 
us  done  pretty 
1  town,  rotting 
tumbling  down 

of  weeds  and 
j1(1  easily  have 
leserted  village 

recently,  how- 
ncrgizer  of  the 
t  new  life  into 
-grown  houses, 
her  youth. 
Y  of  the  Bay  of 


Fundy,  and  strike  across  the  country  towards 
the  Straits  of  Northumberland.  This  is,  there- 
fore, a  favorable  opportunity  to  refer  briefly  to 
the  wonderful  tides  in  the  bay.  The  flood  tides 
here  sorr.etimes  take  the  very  larc  and  terrible 
form  of  the  "  bore  "  —  a  great,  perpendicular 
wall  of  water  rushing  up  the  bay,  passing  diago- 
nally from  side  to  side,  and  overwhelming  every- 
thing in  its  path. 

Imagine  the  stranger  who  might  happen  to  be 
walking  in  the  dry  bed  of  the  bay  just  before  the 
coming  of  the  "  bore,"  roused  from  his  reverie 
upon  mud,  muscles,  and  clams,  whose  happiness 
at  high  water  is  always  such  an  appropriate  and 
convenient  simile,  by  a  mighty,  rushing,  gur- 
gling roar  in  the  far  distance. 

Instantly  a  graphic  picture  of  his  younger 
days  will  come  to  his  mind,  representing  a  dis- 
tressed looking  Pharaoh,  surrounded  by  a  few 
wretched  followers,  standing  upon  the  topmost 
point  of  a  very  sharp  rock,  in  the  midst  of  some 
extraordinary  looking  waves,  while  a  row  of 
jolly  Israelites  arc  grinning  at  them  from  the 
II 


l62 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


T 


safe  bank  of  the  other  side ;  and  he  will  imagine 
that  he  hoars  a  chorus  of  Jubilee  Singers  on  the 
bank  above  him,  chanting,  — 

"To  drown  old  Pharo's  army,  hallelujah, 
To  drown  old  Pharo's  army,  hallelu." 

But  he  must  dismiss  both  Pharaoh's  army 
and  the  Jubilee  Singers  from  his  thoughts,  and 
run  for  his  life,  for  the  roar  which  he  hears  in 
the  distance  proceeds  from  the  "  bore,"  ten  feet 
high  (if  it  happens  to  be  at  the  time  of  spring 
tide),  coming  towards  him  at  the  rate  of  twelve 
miles  an  hour,  and  bringing  sure  destruction  to 
man,  or  beast,  or  boat,  that  may  be  in  its  way. 
.  The  tide  rises  thirty  feet  here,  —  not  so  high  by 
half  as  at  some  otlier  parts  of  the  bay,  —  and  the 
wave  which  leads  the  van  is  the  only  remark- 
able one,  the  others  being  scarcely  a  tenth  of 
its  size. 

Shediac  is  reached  soon  after  we  start  from 
Moncton  station,  and  here  we  leave  the  train. 
The  European  and  North  American  runs  two 
miles  farther,  and  ends  at  the  coast,  at  a  little 


le  will  imagine 
Singers  on  the 


inlletujah, 
allelu." 

'haraoh's  army 
5  thoughts,  and 
ich  he  hears  in 
'  bore,"  ten  feet 
time  of  spring 

rate  of  twelve 
!  destruction  to 
'  be  in  its  way. 
not  so  high  by 

bay,  —  and  the 
le  only  remark- 
ccly  a  tenth  of 

we  start  from 
leave  the  train. 
:rican  runs  two 
:oast,  at  a  little 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


163 


place  called  Point  du  Chone.  But  may  you  not, 
my  reader,  be  obliged  to  tarry  long  at  Shediac, 
waiting  for  the  Prince  Edward  Island  boat,  for 
this  is,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  most  slipshod 
places  to  be  found  on  our  little  planet. 

Do  you  wish  for  a  minute  description  of  this 
lovely  retreat?  Take  the  most  wretched  New 
England  village,  of  about  seventy-five  houses,  to 
be  found  in  either  of  our  six  Puritanic  common- 
wealths ;  bring  all  the  two-story  houses  to  the 
level  of  cottages;  tear  off  every  blind  in  the 
place ;  paint  all  the  houses  a  dingy  color ;  turn 
every  store  and  shop,  where  a  scrap  of  reading 
matter  can  be  bought,  into  a  grocery  and  grog- 
gery;  dig  crudlc-holcs  in  all  the  roads  lai^e 
enough  to  bury  the  horse  and  buggv  with  which 
you  jolt  over  them ;  level  all  the  hills  within 
twenty  miles ;  cut  down  half  of  the  forest  trees, 
and  turn  the  rest  into  stunted  spruces;  meta- 
morphose all  the  fields  and  pastures  into  bogs  and 
' wamps ;  and  run  a  muddy  bay,  with  a  muddier 
b.iore,  along  one  side  of  the  town,  and  you  have 
a  twin  Shediac  in  Massachusetts,  which  it  would 


164 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


be  hard   to  distiiigiiislicd  from   the  New  Bruns- 
wick orif^iiial. 

But  even  Shcdinc  has  its  redeeming  qualities  ; 
for,  as  is  the  case  with  all  these  provincial  sea- 
coast  towns,  in  the  way  of  climate  nothing  bet- 
ter could  be  desired.  The  air,  always  cool  and 
fresh,  has  a  certain  invigorating  quality  which 
turns  the  blue  of  one's  mental  finnament  into 
the  rosiest  colors  (if  one  lives  here  long  enough, 
the  blue  is  all  driven  to  the  nose),  and  it  is  said 
to  be  impossible  for  a  hypochondriac  to  live 
within  a  dozen  miles  of  the  place. 

Besides  its  climate,    Shcdiac    can    boast   of  a 
large  saw-mill,  which  turns  out  six  million  feet 
■  of  lumber  during  the  three  months  of  the  year  it 
is  in  operation. 

Here  a  log  is  taken  in  the  rough,  and  by  the 
aid  of  a  gang-saw  to  cut  it  into  the  right  thick- 
nesses, and  a  circular  saw  to  trim  off  the  edges, 
in  an  incredibly  short  time  the  sturdy  pine  trunk 
is  transformed  into  planks  or  boards,  ready  to  be 
shipped  to  Europe.  Four  hundred  logs  a  day 
take  the  shape  of  building  material   in  this  one 


le  New  Bruns- 

nlng  qualities ; 
provincial  sen- 
e  nothing  bet- 
ways  cool  and 
quality  which 
iniiament  into 
e  long  enough, 
),  and  it  is  said 
ndriac  to  live 
;e. 

an  boast  of  a 
six  million  feet 
s  of  the  year  it 

;h,  and  by  the 
lie  right  thick- 
off  the  edges, 
irdy  pine  trunk 
rds,  ready  to  be 
ed  logs  a  day 
rial   in  this  one 


HO  IV  TO   ENJOY  THEM. 


165 


mill,  and  many  other  mills  along  the  coast  turn 
out  an  equal  amount  of  lumber,  all  of  which 
is  shipped  directly  to  European   ports. 

The  two  churches  of  the  place  may  also  be 
ranked  among  its  redeeming  features,  for  they 
are  neat,  attractive  buildings,  vviiich  would  be  a 
disgrace  to  no  village  in   the  land. 

They  have  a  novel  metho  1,  however,  of 
calling  people  to  the  sanctuaiy  in  Shediac. 
When  the  appointed  time  arrives,  a  small  boy 
with  a  huge  dinner-bell  mounts  the  topmost 
step,  and  by  shaking  his  bell,  proclaims  to  all 
within  hearing  that  divine  service  is  about  to 
begin.  Doubtless  this  method  answers  every 
purpose,  though  the  eflect  is  hardly  soul-inspir- 
ing, since  it  is  more  likely  to  lead  one  to  reflect 
upon  his  gastronomic  wants,  than  his  spiritual 
necessities. 

The  inhabitants  of  Shediac,  like  most  people 
in  the  province,  are  free  and  open-hearted,  polite 
to  strangers,  and  proud  of  their  native  town  and 
country. 

To  them  no  land  is  equal  to  the  fields  and 


i66 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


meadows  of  New  Brunswick;  their  row  of 
straggling  houses  is  a  "  tlniving  village,"  and 
the  little  stretch  of  mud  and  sand  is  a  "  lovely 
beach."  For  dwellers  in  such  a  place  this  bliss- 
ful contentment  is  inviiUiable.  May  you  ever, 
dear  New  Brunswickans,  continue  to  jolt  over 
your  wretched  highways  with  the  same  self- 
satisfied  faces  that  you  now  wearl 

But  whatever  day  of  the  week  we  reach 
Shediac,  Tuesday  or  Friday  morning  will  at 
lengtli  cpme  round,  and  bring  with  it  one  of  the 
Prince  Edward  Island  steamers,  to  transport 
us  from  the  dreary  wastes  which  surround 
Shediac  to  that  lovely  isle  which  long  ago  re- 
ceived the  name  of  the  old  Duke  of  Kent  — 
Prince  Edward. 

A  perfect  gem  is  this  island,  —  a  beautiful 
emerald,  the  largest  and  brightest  of  all  the 
jewels   which    adorn   the   bosom   of   the   grfiat 

gulf. 

Do  not  smile  at  this  enthusiastic  statement, 
for  it  is  strictly  true,  as  every  traveller  will  vote 
when  steaming  up  to  the  Summerside  Wharf,  and 


?T^-y?A'-'3gi^'^rrjC^'"?%=!:t''"!^--.S,  ',i '  ^  * 


^ 


HO IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


167 


tlieir  row  of 
village,"  and 
ul  is  a  "  lovely 
)h)cc  this  bliss- 
Vlay  you  ever, 
lie  to  jolt  over 
the  same  self- 
r! 

eek  we  reach 
orning  will  at 
th  it  one  of  the 
s,  to  transport 
A\\c\\  surround 
;h  long  ago  rc- 
uke   of  Kent  — 

1,  —  a  beautiful 
itcst  of  all  the 
11   of   the   grfiat 

istic  statement, 
veller  will  vote 
side  Wharf,  and 


seeing  the  long  reaches  of  green  fields  on  either 
side,  without  a  rock,  or  clifl',  or  withered  pasture, 
to  mar  the  quiet  loveliness  of  the  scene.  There 
are  sixt}'  miles  of  coast  of  the  same  character, 
which  the  eye  cannot  reach,  stretching  away  on 
either  side. 

Neither  does  distance,  by  any  means,  lend  all 
the  enchantment  to  the  view,  for  when  we  land 
from  the  steamer  and  take  the  coach,  fields 
of  the  same  unrivalled  green  will  meet  our  eye, 
throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  island, 
and  vkre  exclaim,  "  O  for  perpetual  summer,  to 
make  Prince  Edward  Island  the  paradise  of  tlie 
globe !  " 

But,  alas  I  our  wish  is  far  from  granted,  for 
throughout  more  than  seven  months  of  the  year 
the  frost  king  holds  undisputed  sway,  and  our 
charming  isle  is  as  dreary  and  prosaic  as  can 
well  be  imagined.  , 

Even  in  summer  the  occasional  evidences  of 
man's  hand  would  remind  one  that  he  is  still  on 
this  mundane  sphere,  while  at  the  same  time, 
from  the  style  of  architecture  of  severe  simplicity. 


1 68 


OUR  VACATIONS. 


which  the  natives  have  adopted  in  building  tlieir 
houses,  one  is  led  to  think  that,  in  tlicir  opinion, 
at  least,  the  island  is  beautiful  enougli  already, 
without  any  effort  on  their  part  to  improve  it. 

Summerside,  wheie  we  land,  is  a  more  forsaken 
place  even  than  Shediac ;  and  if  we  stay  but  a 
short  time,  the  only  rcniembrancq  of  the  town 
we  shall  carry  away,  will  be  of  a  row  of  extra- 
ordinarily mean-looking  houses,  planted  helter- 
skelter  in  the  midst  of  a  great  pasture  of  live 
stock,  composed  of  equal  parts  of  scurvy  dogs, 
draggled  geese,  and  dirty  children. 

Bagnall's  coach  for  Charlottetown.  however, 
will  take  us  out  of  the  vicinity  of  Summerside  at 
•an  early  hour.  The  ride  will  well  repay  us  for 
rising  at  the  first  call  of  the  blue-bird,  for  though 
Mr.  Bagnall's  coaches  are  hardly  first  class,  we 
shall  find  much  to  interest  us  in  this  forty  miles. 
The  first  thing  that  strikes  the  eye  is  the  uniform 
excellence  of  the  hay-fields.  No  starveling 
patches  of  clover  do  we  see,  and  spindling  crops 
of  grass,  where  each  individual  Timothy  Grass 
seems  afraid  of  his   next  neighbor,  and  tries  to 


!M"J" '.  Lll.tliJ-  ,j>-'    -  W-  -'■'■-  ■■^''-'•'  .■'-■."l.>-JWW,'li/j^''_--g4g^'!;;')*'« 


building  their 

their  opinion, 

oiigh  aheady, 

improve  it. 

more  forsaiten 

rt'c  stay  but  a 

of  the  town 

row  of  extra- 

)hinted    lielter- 

asture  of  live 

i'  scurvy  dogs, 

)wn.  however, 
Summerside  at 
1  repay  us  for 
rd,  for  though 
first  class,  we 
lis  forty  miles, 
is  the  uniform 
Jo  starveling 
jindling  crops 
'imothy  Grass 
,  and  tries  to 


HOIV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


169 


keep  at  a  respectful  distance  ;  but  broad  acres  of 
the  stoutest  grass,  red  with  clover  blossoms,  or 
waving  like  a  wheat-field,  with  the  full  beads  of 
timothy  or  herds-grass.  The  fields  of  potatoes, 
too,  white  with  blossoms,  if  it  is  late  in  the 
summer,  it  would  be  hard  to  beat,  even  in  that 
land  of  murphies  —  the  Emerald  Isle. 

Oats,  also,  do  remarkably  v"!ll  in  the  light, 
red  loam  which  forms  the  inland  soil ;  and  barley 
and  rye,  as  well  as  most  of  the  hardier  vegeta- 
bles, are  raised  to  a  considerable  extent. 

The  three  months  of  warm  weather  which  the 
province  enjoys  hardly  gives  the  corn  time  to 
ripen  ;  and  the  only  field  of  corn  which  we  ever 
saw  on  the  island,  had,  when  about  a  foot  high, 
made  a  sickly  attempt  to  tassel  out,  but  had  sig- 
nally failed. 

There  are  scarcely  any  stones  on  the  island ; 
the  few  that  are  to  be  found  are  a  soft,  friable 
sandstone,  which  seems  in  a  hurry  to  crumble 
back  to  sand  again,  and  leave  the  soil  wholly  fi  ?« 
from  any  impediment  to  the  tarmer's  plough. 
The   inhabitants  here  have  a  curious  way,  we 


lyo 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


shall  notice,  of  cconomi/iii};  tlicir  few  precious 
stones  in  building  roadside  walls.  First  they  lay 
a  course  of  pebbles,  then  a  thick  layer  of  sod, 
then  another  course  of  pebbles,  aiiothci  layer  of 
sod,  and  so  on,  until  they  have  made  a  stout  and 
quite  durable  wall,  out  of  sods  and  small  stones, 
which  our  farmers  would  consider  worthless  fur 
such  a  purpose. 

Other  things  which  will  strike  one  as  curious 
are  the  little  barns  with  movable  roots,  which  are 
to  be  seen  on  every  side.  Instead  of  having  one 
or  two  large  barns,  the  islnnders  have  several,  per- 
haps many  small  ones.  These  are  walled  up  to 
the  height  of  ten  feet  or  so,  and  above  the  walls 
extend  four  uprights  as  much  higher.  Through 
a  hole  in  each  corner  of  the  roof  these  uprights 
are  placed,  and  upon  them  the  roof  slides  up  or 
down,  always  r.  ting  on  the  hay  underneath. 
Thus,  in  the  fall  of  the  year,  a  stranger,  by  sim- 
ply glancing  at  the  barns  on  the  road-side,  could 
tell  whether  it  was  a  year  of  plenty  or  a  season 
of  scarcity ;  for  if  "  the  labor  of  the  husband- 
man  had   been   blessed,"   as   the  Thanksgiving 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


171 


ir  few  precious 
First  tliey  lay 
pc  layer  of  sod, 
iiothci  layer  of 
ladc  a  stout  and 
id  small  stones, 
er  worthless  for 

!  one  as  curious 
roofs,  which  are 
j  of  having  one 
ave  several,  per- 
ire  walled  up  to 
above  the  walls 
gher.  Through 
f  these  uprights 
oof  slides  up  or 
lay  underneath, 
stranger,  by  sim- 
road-side,  could 
Iciity  or  a  season 
jf  the  husband- 
le  Thanksgiving 


proclamation!  »ay,  the  little  »oof  will  be  raised 
to  the  topmost  notch,  and  the  barns  will  be  burst- 
ing out  with  jjlcuty  ;  but  if  Jack  Frost  comes  too 
early  and  nips  the  crop,  the  roofs  of  the  barns 
will  proclaim  it  by  resting  flat  upon  the  walls, 
while  the  long  posts  stretch  gaunt  and  bare  above 

them. 

If  we  go  out  to  ride,  we  shall  find  that,  "  turn 
out  to  the  left,  as  the  law  directs,"  is  the  rule 
here,  and  a  most  perplexing  rule  for  a  Yankee  to 
drive  by  it  is,  too;  and  we  shall  have  many 
narrow  escapes  from  collision  with  the  decidedly 
antiquated  and  rickety  ^cams  of  the  people  of 
the  land. 

Our  text-books  on  natural  history  are  faulty 
in  one  respect;  not  one  of  them  contains  the 
following  passage:  — 

"  What  creatures  besides  antelopes  are  noted 
for  their  wonderful  curiosity?" 

"  Ans.  The  inhabitants  of  some  of  the  smaller 
Provincial  towns." 

When  the  stranger  first  enters  one  of  these  vil- 
lages, he  is  surprised  to  sec  every  doorway,  and 


17a 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


window,  ami  street  comer  crowcfcd  vvitli  men, 
women,  iuul  cliildren,  wliose  sole  purpose  in  life 
seems  to  be  to  gaze  upon  his  form  and  features. 
The  emotions  ui  tiiis  stranger  will  be  various. 
First,  the  though'  *1its  through  his  mind  that  this 
is  a  village  of  .ictectives,  and  that  he  is  suspected 
of  some  great  crime,  on  which  account  each  of 
the  inhabitants  is  mentally  taking  his  photograph 
and  exact  measurements. 

But  the  idea  is  so  jjrepostcrous  that  even  the 
infants  in  arms  shouUl  belong  to  the  detective 
cor])s,  that  he  soon  abanilons  this  notion,  and 
emotions  of  pleasure  take  its  pi  ice.  "  Ah,"  says 
he  to  himself,  "  I  must  have  become  very  distm- 
guishcd  since  I  left  home  ;  reccivetl  tiie  nomina- 
tion for  governor  or  congressman,  perhaps,  or  at 
least  'alderman  of  my  native  town.'  Who 
knows?  And  though  I  have  iiot  heard  of  it  my- 
self, it  has  got  to  the  ears  of  thest;  good  people, 
and  they  take  this  method  of  sliowing  their  ap- 
probation. But  it  is  very  singular,"  he  thinks, 
"  that  they  utter  no  word,  neither  give  vent  to 
their  feelings  in  a  single  cheer;"  and  about  tiiis 


_J 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


«73 


•ctcd  with  men, 
B  piiiposp  in  life 
n  and  features. 
\ill  be  viirious. 
s  mind  tlint  this 
t  he  is  suspected 
iccount  each  of 
:  his  photograph 

IS  that  even  the 

o   the   detective 

his  notion,   and 

:e.     "  Ah,"  says 

omc  very  distin- 

ed   tiie  nomina- 

I,  perhaps,  or  at 

town.'      Wlio 

heard  of  it  my- 

it;  good   people, 

.iwing  their  ap- 

ilar,"  he   thinks, 

cr  give  vent  to 

and  about  tiiis 


time,  his  joy  gives  place  to  terror  and  dismay,  as 
he  thinks,  "  What  is  tile  matter  witli  my  face  or 
figure?  Are  my  feet  turning  into  hoofs,  or  my 
ears  into  horns?  Is  my  skin  becoming  black,  or 
is  there  a  great  rent  in  the  back  of  my  coal?" 

An>!  he  rushes  home,  and  to  his  looking-glass, 
in  great  anxiety,  to  find  his  personal  appearance 
unchanged,  and  to  anathematize  the  stu])id  curi- 
osity of  the  natives. 

But  this  trait  is  not  characteristic  of  all  the 
people  of  the  provinces,  by  any  means ;  it  ap- 
pears only  in  a  few  less  favored  regions;  for 
ill  general  the  people  are  as  polite,  genial,  and 
hospitable  as  any  one  could  wish.  Indeed,  it  is 
said  that  on  Prince  Edward  Island  the  belated 
traveller  will  find  at  any  farm-house,  when 
night  overtakes  him,  food  and  bed  of  tlir  best 
(|'.iality,  for  which  the  good  farmer  feels  insulted 
,0  l#e  offered  pay. 

P       i  •  were  just  starting  out  from  Summer- 

ido,  at    '  ve  o'clock  in  the  morning.     Soon  we 

r'.  u..      '    lazel  Grove,"  as  Farmer   Hagnall  calls 

)!is   h;i      vay   liouiM;,  bolwceu    Summerside  and 


174 


067?    VACATIONS. 


Cliarlottctown  ;  and  while  we  are  waiting  to  have 
our  liorscs  changed,  we  may  as  well  step  inside 
and  jjartake  of  a  first-class  breakfast  cif  salmon  or 
mackerel,  lobsters,  muttoi>  (the  island  is  noted 
for  its  fine  mutton),  and  cold  beef,  with  their 
usual  concomitants,  for  all  of  which  the  modest 
sum  of  twentji-five  cents  is  considered  a  full 
equivalent. 

Moreover,  we  must  not  fail  to  visit  Mrs.  Bag- 
nail's  fragrant  dairy,  and  her  fine  kitchen  garden, 
which  is  quite  a  marvel  for  these  cold  northern 
latitudes. 

If  it  is  as  late  as  the  middle  of  August,  she 
will  point  out,  with  evident  pride,  her  rows  of 
"  early  green  peas,"  just  beginning  to  fill  out. 

Early  green  peas  in  the  middle  of  August ; 
think  of  that,  ye  ?vlassachusetts  farmers,  whose 
dry  pea-vines  hang  at  that  time,  sear  and  yellow, 
on  rustling  bushes ! 

We  would  suggest  to  any  devoted  lever  of 
early  fruits  and  vegetables,  tliat  he  might  greatly 
prolong  his  enjoyment  by  following  the  seasons 
along  as  it  were,  by  travelling  through  various 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEK 


'75 


waiting  to  have 
cU  step  inside 
1st  of  salmon  or 
island  is  noted 
)ccf,  with  their 
ich  the  modest 
nsidcrcd   a  full 

visit  Mrs.  Bag- 
kitchen  garden, 
e  cold  northern 

:  of  August,  she 
dc,  her  rows  of 
ling  to  fill  out. 
Idle  of  August ; 
farmers,  whose 
sear  and  yellow, 

evoted  lover  of 
he  might  greatly 
'ing  the  seasons 
through  various 


climes.  For  instance,  starting  in  the  tropics  in 
the  month  of  March,  he  might  enjoy  his  straw- 
berries and  cherries,  green  peas  and  asparagus, 
during  the  very  first  days  of  spring.  Then  he 
woidd  slowly  journey  to  more  temperate  climes, 
keeping  pace  with  the  northward  progress  of 
his  favorite  dishes,  until  at  length,  the  first  part 
of  autumn  would  find  him  eating  strawberries 
and  grecu  peas  in  Mrs.  Bagnall's  garden,  at 
Hazel  Grove. 

Twenty  miles  of  stage-coach  ride  from  Hazel 
Grove  brings  us  to  Ciiarlottetown,  the  capital 
and  largest  city  of  the  island  ;  and  quite  pleased 
shall  we  be  with  the  appearance  of  the  place. 
Ten  thousand  people,  living  for  the  most  part  in 
low,  brown,  wooden  houses,  arranged  on  wide 
and  regular  streets,  compose  the  population  of 
this  very  quiet,  orderly  city. 

The  commerce  of  Charlottetown  is  already 
considerable,  and  the  excellent  harbor  will  admit 
of  a  great  metropolis  on  this  Island  of  Prince 
Edward,  should  the  great  trade-winds  ever  blow 
strongly  in  this  direction. 


176 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


Though  Charlottctown  can  boast  of  but  few 
fine  buildings,  3et  she  possesses  two  or  three 
fine  government  houses.  They  are  built  of 
brown  sandstone,  brought  at  gieat  expense  from 
New  Brunswick,  and,  standing  in  the  principal 
square,  are  a  great  ornament  to  the  place.  The 
great  want  of  the  city  is  good  hotel  Accommo- 
dations. The  public  houses  are  all  small,  the 
tables  rather  poor,  and  all  are  so  much  alike 
that  it  will  be  of  little  use  to  mention  the  names 
of  iiny. 

The  school  system  of  the  island  appears  to  be 
in  rather  a  primitive  state,  though  the  school- 
houses  along  the  road  much  resemble  (in  all 
respects  but  their  shingled  sides  and  their  lack 
of  paint)  the  corresponding  nurseries  for  young 
ideas  hi  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont.  One 
is  in  no  danger  of  forgetting,  however,  that  he 
is  no  longer  in  the  land  of  Young  America, 
when,  as  he  rides  by,  he  sees  the  rows  of  school 
boys  and  girls  drawn  up  on  both  sides  of  the 
road,  respectfully  pulling  their  forelocks,  and 
dropping  courtesies  to  the  passing  stranger. 


*-^- 


S". 

, m 

)ast  of  but  few 
i  two  or  three 
f  are  built  of 
it  expense  from 
n  the  principal 
the  place.  Tiie 
hotel  eccommo- 
;  all  small,  the 
so  much  alike 
ition   the  names 

d  appears  to  be 
ugh  the  school- 
csemble  (in  all 
3  and  their  lack 
scries  for  young 
Vermont.  One 
lowever,  that  he 
i'oung  America, 
e  rows  of  school 
loth  sides  of  the 
r  forelocks,  and 
iing  stranger. 


J/OIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


i'j>J 


We  arc  told  that  the  school-mistresses,  vho 
instil  ideas  of  politeness  and  of  the  alphabet 
into  the  young  islanders,  receive  forty  pounds  a 
year  for  theii  services,  and  doubtless  deem  them- 
selves "  passing  rich  "  at  that.  "  Forty  pounds, 
or  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  dollars,"  as  one 
of  them  informed  us. 

From  recollections  of  early  school-days,  and 
of  the  table  of  English  money,  we  had  always 
supposed  that  forty  pour'?**  was  more  than  one 
hundred  and  thirty-tw  collars,  but  surely,  the 
"  school-marnt  "  ought  to  know. 

Provisions  are  wonderfully  cheap  on  this  isle 
of  plenty.  To  illustrate  the  low  prices  prevail- 
ing in  these  favored  domains  of  royalty,  let  us 
suppose  that  we  have  gone  to  housekeeping 
here,  and  are  about  to  sit  down  to  a  "  good 
square  meal,"  to  fill  up  the  vacancy  which  a 
long  ride  over  the  billowy  roads  of  the  island 
has  left. 

That  plate  of  fresh  salmon  which  first  comes 
on  has  cost  five  cents  per  pound,  if  it  is  in  the 
salmon  season,  while,  if  a  fish  of  the  species 
13 


v^4>:!^^mvs§f'Wv'Tm'!tM:' 


178 


067?    VACATIONS. 


chosen  to  grace  the  Massachusetts  Hall  of  Rep- 
resentatives, had  been  preferrctl,  wc  might  have 
boujjht  a  fifteen  pounder  for  half  as  many  cop- 
pers. Of  course,  since  we  are  in  the  hind  of 
John  Bull,  we  must  not  discard  the  national  dish  ; 
and  for  that  choice  roast  which  next  makes  its 
appearance  the  price  was  ten  cents  per  pound, 
while  the  mutton  chop  by  its  side  cost  us  just 
half  as  much. 

The  chickens  which  flank  the  roast  beef  have 
cost  thirty-two  cents  per  pair;  the  eggs  are 
twelve  cents  per  dozen  ;  the  butter  fifteen,  and 
the  ciieese  five,  cents  per  pound 

Of  course  this  is  very  extravagant ;  but,  then, 
one  must  eat  something,  you  know,  even  if  he 
don't  Iny  up  a  cent ;  and  he  may  as  well  grow 
poor  on  such  things  as  spend  all  his  substance 
for  fesh  mackerel  at  thirty  cents  a  dozen,  or  lob- 
sters nt  a  cent  and  a  half  apiece.  Indceil,  such 
privr.ti(.ns  in  the  line  of  fresh  provisions  do  these 
poor  islanders  endure,  that  It  has  been  thougiit 
best,  in  some  quarters,  to  re-enact  the  olil  Coii- 
ijficticut  law,  that   "  no   master   mechanic   shall 


KC  fUrriimTHiilM— rrn-i  HIT  II 


Hall  (^f  Rep- 


wc  might  have 
[f  as  many  cop- 
in  the  land  of 
le  national  dish ; 
next  makes  its 
ents  per  pound, 
ide  cost   us  just 

roast  beef  have 
;  the  eggs  are 
utter  fifteen,  and 

igant;  but,  then, 
know,  even  '.f  he 
nay  as  well  grow 
all  his  substance 
ts  a  dozen,  or  lob- 
ce.     Indeed,  such 
rovisions  do  these 
has  been   thought 
nact  the  old  Con- 
;r  mechanic  shall 


now   TO  EAJOV  THEM, 


179 


give  his  apprentices  fresh   sahnon  to  eat   more 
than  three  times  a  week." 

The  small  change  with  which  pay  is  given  for 
these  necessaries  of  life  is  rather  perplexing  to  eyes 
accustomed  to  greenback  currency  ;  for  besides 
the  dimes,  half  dimes,  and  quarters,  wliose  God- 
dess of  Liberty  wears  a  strangely  familiar  ex- 
pression, we  are  continually  exercising  our  reck- 
oning powers  to  ascfcrtain  the  value  of  certain 
twenty,  twenty-four,  furty-cight,  and  sixty  cent 
pieces,  besides  a  liberal  sprinkling  of  sixpences, 
siiillings,  and  florins,  bearing  the  queen's  image 
and  super3cription ;  and  occasionally  the  grouty 
visages  of  Georgius  IV.  or  Gulielmns  IV.  find 
their  way  into  our  pocket-book,  carrying  with 
them  far  greater  veneration  than  the  memory  of 
those  royal  personages  themselves  is  likely  to  do. 

Oa  the  whole,  the  people  of  Prince  Edward, 
politically  and  socially,  are  very  much  like  the 
rest  of  lite  gliiill  World  alwut  them.  The  men 
wrangle  and  grow  furious  over  politics;  the 
women  gossip  in  the  most  approved  fashion  j 
and  the  young  folks  jput  on  airs,  and  affection- 


"^'"""  ^^n-: 


iSo 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


ately  designate  their  "  parieuts  "  as  "  paw," 
and  "  maw,"  just  as  thougli  three  thousand  miles 
of  ocean  did  not  roll  between  them  and  London 
aristocracy. 

While  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia  be- 
longed to  the  Dominion  of  Canada  from  the 
beginn:n9f.  Prince  Edward  Island  long  remained 
independent,  exceedingly  jealous  of  everything 
Canadian,  and  until  very  recently  has  been  gov- 
erned in  all  matters  by  Houses  of  Senators  a  id 
Commons  of  its  own. 

This  little  province,  too,  of  scarce  a  hundred 
thousa:id  souls,  has,  according  to  its  papers,  a 
complete  Tammany  of  its  own,  and  its  handful 
of  legislators  find  it  impossible  to  perform  the 
functions  of  their  office  without  expending  sev- 
eral thousand  dollars  annually  for  pocket-knives, 
brandy,  lead  pencils  at  two  dollars  apiece,  &c., 
if  the  opposition  journals  are  to  be  believed. 
Base  imitators  these  of  our  ignoble  example ! 

A  railroad  (the  first  the  province  has  ever 
had)  has  recently  been  constructed  from  Sum- 
mers.de  to  Charlottetown,  and  is  now  open  for 


HO  IV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


i8i 


"   as  "  paw, 
thousand  miles 
m  and  Loudon 

ova  Scotia  be- 
iiada  from  the 
long  remained 
of  everything 
■  has  been  gov- 
>f  Senators  aid 

;arce  a  hundred 
o  its  papers,  a 
and  its  handful 
to  perform  the 
expending  sev- 
r  pocket-knives, 
lars  apiece,  &c., 
to  be  believed, 
ble  example ! 
avince  has  ever 
cted  from  Sum- 
is  now  open  for 


passenger  traffic,  we  believe,  so  that  in  tiic  future 
travellers  will  have  a  more  speedy  method  of 
reaching  the  capital,  if  they  choose  to  go  by  r'.il. 
Still,  qn  a  bright  summer  morning,  for  pure  air, 
lovely  scenery,  and  a  pleasant  glimpse  of  coun- 
try life  in  the  province,  commend  us  to  a  top 
seat  on  one  of  Mr.  Bagnall's  coaches. 

Rustico,  a  little  village  eighteen  miles  from 
Charlottetown,  is  where  the  people  of  "  the  city  " 
rusticate,  and  it  is  almost  the  only  watering-place 
on  the  island.  The  ride  to  Rustico  and  back 
will  fill  up  one  day  of  our  stay  at  Ciiarlottetown 
very  pleasantly,  and,  if  in  the  season,  we  can 
have  rare  sport  with  the  flocks  of  snipe,  ducks, 
and  otiier  waterfowl  which  here  frequent  tlie 
coast.  One  day,  too,  must  be  devoted  to  fishing, 
for  fiuiious  are  the  trout  brooks  of  Prince  Ed- 
ward's land. 

For  nearly  half  of  the  year  communication 
between  the  island  and  main  land  is  kept  up  with 
great  difficulty  and  danger,  for  all  the  harbors 
aic  frozen  over  five  feet  thick  or  more ;  and  very 
frequently  the  whole  gulf,  fronj  shore  to  shore, 


'jJtegWS'iT^»'^^!3S^*SSi;'fS:>''-'n'v>j;j  ..?',■■  ,-iWA.'i-.;» 


l83 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


is  covered  with  ice.  At  sucli  times  tlie  mails  are 
transported  on  ice-boats,  which  arc  so  construct- 
ed that  they  can  be  drawn  over  the  ice  or  pro- 
pelled through  the  water  with  equal  facility.  In 
summer,  liowever,  an  excellent  line  of  steamers 
plies  between  Charlottctown  and  the  coast  of 
New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia ;  and  if  we 
have  seen  all  that  the  time  of  our  vacation  allows 
of  this  Qiieen  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Gulf,  we  will 
take  the  steamer  St.  Lawrence  or  the  Princess 
of  Wales  for  Cape  Breton. 

Our  first  stopping-place  will  be  Pictou,  a 
name  connected,  no  doubt,  in  many  of  our 
minds,  chiefly  with  the  grimy  coal-barges  which 
frequent  our  harbors.  Years  ago,  Pictou  was  a 
place  of  considerable  importance,  as  the  seat  of 
an  extensive  lumber  trade ;  but  gradually  the 
forests  were  cut  olV,  lumber  became  scarce,  and 
Pictou's  glory  seemed  waning.  About  this  time, 
however,  rich  deposits  of  coal  were  found  in  the 
neighborhood ;  and  now  the  place  is  more  flour- 
ishing than  at  first,  and  the  fossilized  forests  of 
antediluvian  days  seem  likch  to  be  a  more  lasting 


s  the  mails  are 
e  so  construct- 
thc  ice  or  pio- 
al  facility.  In 
lie  of  steamers 
\  the  coast  of 
:ia ;  and  if  we 
vacation  allows 
e  Gulf,  we  will 
»r  the   Princess 

.  be  Pictou,  a 
mariy  of  our 
iil-bargcs  which 
o,  Pictou  was  a 
;,  as  the  seat  of 
t  gradually  the 
ime  scarce,  and 
About  this  time, 
ere  found  in  the 
:e  is  more  flour- 
iilized  forests  of 
be  a  more  lasting 


benefit  to  the  region  than  were  the  pine  groves 
of  the  prcscut  century. 

But  we  have  hardly  time  to  think  of  Pictou's 
varied  f(jrtunca,  and  to  notice  the  fine  Catiiolic 
church  on  the  hill,  —  placed  on  the  highest  poirt 
of  land,  it  is  said,  that  the  sailor,  as  he  neani 
harbor,  may  first  of  all  see  its  spire  pointing 
heavenwards,  —  before  the  lines  are  cast  ofl',  the 
heavy  walking-beam  begins  its  regular  march 
again,  and  we  are  headed  for  Port  Havvksbury, 
in  the  Gut  of  Canso. 

We  should  like  to  introduce  our  readers  to 
Port  Ilawksbury,  as  we  saw  it  for  the  first  time 
one  lovely  August  afternoon.  The  setting  sun 
was  just  throwing  his  last  horizontal  rays 
straight  through  the  gap  which  tlie  Gut  of  Canso 
makes  between  Cape  Breton  and  the  main  land 
of  Nova  Scotia.  On  the  right  towered  the 
bristling  heights  of  Cape  Porcupine,  while  on 
the  left  stretched  far  away  the  bold  and  rugged 
scenery  of  Cape  Breton. 

The  steamer  seemed  to  be  ploughing  through 
liquid  gold,  instead  of  salt  sea  brine,  and  it  required 


-  ,^^;'iim0^i!^0:,: 


little  imagination  to  lead  to  the  idea  that  every 
turn  of  the  strait  would  bring  us  to  the  entrance 
of  sonic  enchanted  palace,  or  to  some  Sindbad's 
cave  in  the  mountain  t>ide.  , 

Soon  wo  draw  up  to  tlie  Port  Ilawksbury 
wharf,  and  here  wc  may  as  well  dismiss  all 
poetic  notions,  for  a  scene  awaits  us  which  wc 
are   sure   has   its   match   nowhere   else   on    the 

globe. 

Instead  of  the  hospitable  descendants  of  the 
English,  whom  we  have  seen  heretofore,  a  crowd 
of  brawny  sons  of  Caledonia  greet  us,  all  clad 
in  gray  homespun,  and  chattering  a  most  fearful 
language,  which  sounds  like  the  roll  of  distant 
thunder,  the  crash  of  crockery,  and  the  jabber 
of  a  dozen  Dutchmen,  all  rolled  into  one. 

To  get  a  clearer  idea  of  the  scene,  imagine 
half  a  hundred  French  Canadian  teams  (the  most 
ancient  of  vehicles,  and  most  bony  of  horses,  like 
those  which  visit  our  New  England  villages 
each  summer)  collected  into  a  small  space  near 
the  wharf;  then  imagine  each  one  of  tlie  Canuck 
owners  of  these  turnouts  shouting,  and  yelling, 


idea  that  every 
to  the  entrance 
some  Sindbad's 

)rt  Ilawksbury 
/ell  dismiss  all 
ts  us  which  we 
re   else   on    the 

ccndants  of  the 
ctofore,  a  crowd 
•cct  us,  all  clad 
g  a  most  fearful 
c  roll  of  distant 

and  the  jabber 
[\  into  one. 
;  scene,  imagine 

teams  (the  most 
ly  of  horses,  like 
England  villages 
mall  space  near 
le  of  the  Canuck 
ing,  and  yelling, 


J/0  IF   TO   ENJOY  THEM. 


.85 


and  pulling,  and  winking,  and  whispering  to 
your  individual  self,  to  induce  you  to  employ 
him  to  cany  you  to  West  Bay,  thirteen  miles 
distant,  and  you  have  some  notion  oC  the  scene 
which  greets  the  arrival  of  each  steamer  at  the 
port. 

First,  a  big  Scotchman  seizes  you  by  the  .trm, 
as  though  he  would  carry  you  to  West  Bay 
bodily.  Ilim  you  shake  off  with  difficulty,  when 
another  son  of  Anak  embraces  you  on  the  other 
side. 

Over  there  stands  a  stout  Jehu,  who  beckons 
and  smiles  in  a  most  fiimiliar  way,  after  the 
"  long-lost-brother "  fashion,  and  you  almost 
feel  that  it  is  a  personal  slight  to  neglect  his 
entreaties. 

Just  behind  him  stands  another,  who  winks 
at  you  in  a  confidential  manner,  as  much  as  to 
say,  "  All  these  other  chaps  arc  impostors.  I 
am  the  only  regular,  first-class  wagon." 

We  choose  the  least  importunate  of  our  newly- 
made  friends,  and  with  many  contortions  of 
body  and  groanings  of  spirit,  we  stow  ourselves 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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1.25 

1.4 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


.*J 


iS6 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


away  on  the  bad:  scats,  while  the  big  Cale- 
donian mounts  in  front. 

Would  you  know  the  most  approved  method 
of  riding  over  these  mounlain  roads?  Keep 
yoiu'  eyes  riveted  on  tlie  road,  about  ten  rods 
ahead  of  your  Bucephalus ;  then,  when  you  see 
that  he  is  approaching  a  cradle-hole,  large  stone, 
or  rickety  bridge,  shut  your  eyes,  hold  your 
breath,  raise  yourself  about  six  inches  from  jour 
scat,  and  try  to  lose  yoiu*  consciousness,  until 
you  get  over  the  obstacle,  and  on  the  smooth 
ground  beyond.  To  be  sure,  if  you  adopt  this 
method,  you  will  u.-,e  your  seats  but  verj' little ; 
but  then  the  efVect  is  exhilarating,  or  exciting,  to 
say  the  least,  and  on  the  whole  these  roads  arc 
excellent  preventives  of  indigestion. 

Whether  she  horses  have  no  gveat  expecta- 
tions of  oats  awaiting  them  in  the  manger  at 
home,  or  pe.haps  for  some  other  reason,  they  are 
not  very  ambitious  to  get  over  the  road,  and  it 
takes  all  the  driver's  powers  of  persuasion  to 
keep  them  movii^'if. 

First,  he  encourages  them  by  a  long  series  of 


ihc    big  Culc- 


jioved  nietliod 
roads?     Keep 
about  ten  rods 
when  you  see 
jIc,  large  stone, 
lycs,  hold  your 
iches  from  your 
;iousness,    until 
on  the   smooth 
you  adopt  this 
but  very  little ; 
r,  or  exciting,  to 
tlicse  roads  arc 
ion. 

I  great   expecta- 

the  manger  at 

reason,  tliey  are 

the  road,  and  it 

>f  persuasion   to 


a  long  scries 


187 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 

clucks ;  then  he  varies  the  monotonv  by  re- 
marking, "  Git  up,  g'long."  several  hundred 
times  in  no  subdued  tone ;  tlien  he  pours  forth 
a  large  number  of  Gaelic  expletives,  and  by  this 
time  is  ready  to  return  to  the  original  clucks. 

Feeling  in  a  communicative  mood,  we  attempt 
to  carry  on  a  conversation  with  him. 

''  Well,  driver,  do  you  ever  see  any  game  in 
these  regions .'' " 

•'Yes  (Git  up;  g'long;  hi,  there;  gee,  Buck; 
git  up;  g'long,  g'iong)  —  sometimes."  And 
now  follows  half  a  page  of  horse  talk,  peculiar 
to  Breton  drivers,  which  can't  possibly  be  writ- 
ten ;  and  then  w  e  venture  to  ask^  — 

"What  do  you   find  to  shoot,  driver.'" 

"  Pa'tridges  (Git  up;  keep  the  road;  g'long, 
there)  —  ducks  "  (now  comes  a  prolonged  hiss 
at  the  nigh  horse),  "  rabbits,  and  you  sometimes 
see — (Hi,  there;  what  are  you  about,  Charlie? 
git  up,  git  up;  g'long)."  During  a  long  list  of 
Gaelic  adjectives  which  follow,  we  rather  lose 
the  connection  of  his  discourse,  and  he  shouts 
out  —  "a  bear  " 


i 


J 


1 88 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


"Wlicrc?  where?"  we  excitedly  cry,  while  {he 
hulics  of  the  party  are  preparing  to  faint,  and 
things  generally  begin  to  look  serious.  But  our 
driver  continues  to  cluck  calmly  to  his  nags, 
and  explains  himself  by  remarking,  "  I  only 
said  (G'long,  Buck;  don't  be  lazy,  Charlie), 
that  I  see  a  bear"  —  "Where  is  he?"  we  again 
demand ;  while  the  ladies  entreat,  '•  Do,  dear 
Mr.  Driver,  please  luniy  on ! "  But  our  big 
Scotchman  finishes  his  scries  of  clucks  before 
he  doub  his  sentence  — "  now  and  then  in  the 
woods." 

We  recognize  the  force  of  the  old  saying, 
that  no  man  can  do  two  things  well  af:  the 
same  time,  and  conclude  not  to  question  our 
driver  to  any  great  extent  during  the  rest  of  the 
ride. 

At  West  Bay  there  is  a  little  steamer  ready 
to  carry  us  to  Sydney,  a  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  distant ;  and  after  paying  Jehu  a  dollar 
apiece,  which  he  has  fairly  earned,  wc  go  on 
board,  and  are  soon  threading  our  way  through 
the  intricacies  of  the  Bras  d'Or. 


HO IV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


189 


lly  cry,  while  the 
ns  to  faint,  and 
L'lious.     But  our 
illy  to   his    nags, 
irking,   "  I    only 
I   lazy,   Charlie), 
s  he?"  we  again 
reat,   '•  Do,  dear 
!"     But   our   big 
of  clucks  before 
and  then  in  the 

'  the  old  saying, 
ings  well  at  the 
t  to  question  our 
ing  the  rest  of  the 

ttle  steamer  ready 
ndred  and  twenty 
ing  Jehu  A  dollar 
earned,  we  go  on 
;  our  way  through 
I'Or. 


And  a  wonderful  inland  sea  is  this  Bras  d'Or, 
—  the  Mediterranean  of  North  America,  —  one 
hundred  miles  long,  and  from  ten  rods  to  ten 
miles  wide.  It  extends  throughout  the  entire 
length  of  Cape  Breton,  dividing  the  island  into 
two  peninsulas. 

High  mountains  enclose  the  lak.;  on  all  sides, 
sometimes  rising  abruptly  from  the  water,  — 
then  twice  viewed,  once  in  the  clear  air  above, 
and  once  in  the  blue  depths  beneath,  —  at  other 
times  tinged  with  blue  by  the  distance,  while 
between  them  and  the  water's  bank  are  long 
slopes  of  cultivated  land,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  the  white  cottages  of  -the  farmers  or  fish- 
ermen. 

The  inhabitants  of  Cape  Breton  number  about 
twenty-live  thousand,  and  for  the  mOst  part  they 
are  purely  Scotch.  In  many  places  the  people 
speak  nothing  but  their  native  tongue,  and  the 
stranger  finds  it  very  difficult  to  understand  or 
to  be  understood,  as  Gaelic  is  one  of  the  most 
unspeakable  languages  in  the  world.  Moreover, 
these  Bretone's  are  a  very  primitive  race  in  ev- 


^'-^-'^^^i'^^^^''^''"';i'.-i--'^^''--"'-^^^'^'--"V  '-''' " 


J 


19© 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


cry  sense  of  the  word;  tall,  broad-shoiiklerccl, 
a!i(l  nuiscular,  tliey  are  clad  almost  universally 
in  gray  homespuiA,  anil  live  in  llic  smallest  of 
white-washed  cottages.  Their  wants  are  sup- 
plied without  difHcultVi  for  a  few  acres  of  cid- 
tivated  land  give  them  plenty  of  oatmeal,  and 
the  Bras  d'Or  is  filled  with  all  varieties  of  fine 
fish,  which  may  he  very  easily  caught. 

The  Kirk  of  Scotland  (Presbyterian)  is  the 
only  clnnch  which  floinishes  among  these  peo- 
ple, and  it  is  said  that  they  still  prefer  sermons 
of  two  hours'  length   to   any  other. 

As  we  steam  along  through  the  unruffled 
waters  of  the  "Arm  of  Gold,"  far  oft'  there  to 
the  eastward  we  can  just  discern  the  marble 
mountain,  whose  white  sides  glisten  afar  in  the 
sunlight.  The  marble,  which  is  very  fair,  though 
not  of  the  best  quality,  has  not  yet  been  quar- 
ried to  any  considerable   extent. 

Besides  the  marble  mountain,  the  geologist 
finds  many  other  objects  of  interest.  One  of 
these  is  the  stratum  of  coal  which  underlies 
much  of  this  island,  and  which  is  supposed  to 


-'*™*- 


rs. 

>road-shouldcrcd, 
most  universally 
I  the  smallest  of 

wants   are   sup- 
Few  acres  of  cnl- 

of  oatmeal,  and 
I  varieties  of  fine 
f  caught, 
sbyterian)  is  the 
nmong  these  peo- 
ill  prefer  sermons 
jther. 

gh  the  unruffled 
,"  far  off  there  to 
iscern  the  marble 
glisten  afar  in  the 
is  very  fair,  though 
lot  yet  been  quar- 
int. 
tain,   the    geologist 

interest.  One  of 
1  which  underlies 
lich  is  supposed  to 


I/O  IV  TO  KNJOY  THE  AT.    .         191 


stretch  in  a  continuous  belt  from  Sydney  to 
I'ictou,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 
But  especially  will  tiie  geologist  be  interested  in 
the  inunerous  fossils  to  be  tbuuil  on  these  shores. 
Branches  of  trees  he  will  ilnd  turned  into  the 
solid  rock  ;  stigmaria  and  sigillaria,  with  their 
bark  and  all  their  depressions  and  roughnesses 
as  plainly  visible  as  they  were  twenty  thousand 
years  ago ;  delicate  ferns,  and  the  skeletons  of 
various  leaves  firmly  embedded  in  the  hard  stone ; 
and  all  these  treasures,  at  whicli  we  usually  gaze 
under  the  glass  cases  of  n  cabinet,  to  be  had  for 
nothing  on  the  shores  of  Cape  Breton. 

Tiie  coal  deposits  of  this  region  arc  reaiiy 
wonderful.  Dig  a  few  feet  downwards  in  almost 
any  place,  and  you  will  strike  a  rich  seam  of  these 
black  diamonds.  In  many  spots  along  the 
shore,  the  earth  having  been  washed  away  by 
the  waves,  the  coal  has  fallen  down  Upon  tlie 
pebbly  beach  in  considerable  quantities,  and  is 
there  collected  by  the  inhabitants. 

Many  families,  however,  need  not  go  even 
so   far   as  this   for   their  fuel,  but,  just  stepping 


.g'jga.'3 


192 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


lown  cellar,  they  find  a  natural  coal-bin,  as 
.ncxhaiistihle  as  the  widow's  barrel  of  meal, 
all  prepared  for  them.  The  coal  is  bituminous, 
and  not  the  best  for  family  use,  but  excellent  for 
steam-producing  purposes. 

The  entrance  to  the  Bras  d'Or  from  the  Gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
features  of  this  inland  sea.  For  nearly  two 
miles  we  steam  tlirougli  a  narrow  and  tortuous 
pass,  along  which  only  a  steamer  of  very  small 
dimensions  can  make  its  way,  and  throughout 
the  whole  distance  we  could  almost  jump  from 
our  little  craft  to  the  shore  of  either  peninsula 
of  Cape  Rreton.  A  beautiful  sail  is  this  through 
the  "  narrows ; "  the  strait  seems  to  open  a 
passage  for  the  prow  as  we  go  on,  until  the 
white  breakers  and  dasiiing  waves  proclaim 
that  we  are  out  once  more  in  the  great  gulf. 

On  cither  side  of  the  ^uter  entrance  of  the 
Bras  d'Or  tower  rocky  headlands,  which,  at 
a  little  distance,  much  resemble  fortresses.  Half 
a  dozen  guns  and  a  company  of  regulars  would 
make  them   so  in  good  earnest. 


rffffib 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


'93 


1  coal-bin,  as 
irrcl  of  meal, 
is  bituminous, 
it  excellent  for 

from  the  Gulf 
ost  remarkable 
or   nearly   two 
V  and  tortuous 
r  of  very  small 
md   throughout 
nost  jump  from 
either  peninsula 
1  is  this  through 
ms    to    open   a 
;o  on,  until   the 
vaves    proclaim 
the  great  gulf, 
entrance  of  the 
;inds,    which,    at 
brtresses.     Half 
"  regulars  would 


Thirteen  miles  by  water  from  these  natural 
forts,  is  Sydney,  the  former  capital,  and  at  pres- 
ent tiie   largest  city  of   Cape   Breton. 

The  city  is  notable  for  nothing  except  a  look 
of  quiet  decay,  and  some  very  line  piers,  from 
which  inimense  quantities  of  coal  are  annually 
shipped. 

The  coal  mines  are  some  three  or  four  miles 
from  the  city,  and  their  vast,  sunless  depths, 
running  out  for  two  miles  under  the  ocean's 
waves ;  their  long,  wide  seams  of  coal ;  their 
human  inluibitants,  whose  coal-begrimed  faces 
give  tiiem  a  very  sinister  expression ;  and  their 
plump  little  horses,  wliich  have  never  seen  a  ray 
of  daylight,  —  make  them  well  worth  a  visit  from 
any  traveller  in  Cape  Breton. 

North  Sydney  is  a  place  of  more  commercial 
importance  than  old  Sydney,  and  in  its  well- 
situated  harbor  can  be  seen  every  sort  of  craft 
from  the  ugliest  of  little  coal  barges  to  the 
trimmest  of  British  frigates. 

Old  Louisburg  Fort,  some  twenty-foiu'  mdes 
from  Sydney,  on  the  south  side  of  the  island, 
13 


'94 


OUR    VACATIONS. 


sl)ould  be  visited  if  there  is  time,  for  this  old 
French  capital  was  long  the  hloodj  battle-ground 
of  the  French  and  English  when  they  fought  for 
tiie  possession  of  this  region.  Little  but  historic 
memories  is  left  to  old  Louisburg  now,  how- 
ever, for,  with  tiic  exception  of  a  few  fishermen's 
huts,  the  place  is  well  nigh  deserted. 

While  stopping  at  Sydney,  we  must  make  Mrs. 
Ilerns's  our  headciuartcrs,  if  that  good  lady  has  a 
spare  room  for  us,  for  at  most  of  the  so-called 
hotels  of  Sydney  we  should  fare  but  poorly. 

Now  the  northern  limit  of  our  vacation  joui- 
ney  has  been  reached,  and  if  we  wish  to  make 
the  tour  of  the  maritime  provinces  complete,  wc 
shall  doubtless  retrace  our  steps  as  far  as  Pictou, 
tiicn  strike  across  Nova  Scotia  by  rail,  and  return 
to  our  republican  home  by  way  of  Halifax. 

On  the  return  journey,  we  reach  Port  Hawks- 
bury  at  nightfall,  and  going  to  bed  in  the  steamer 
as  she  lies  at  the  wharf,  awake  the  next  morning 
within  sight  of  Pictou. 

.The  steward  hurries  breakfast,  the  passengers 
hurry  down  their  salmon  and  beefsteak,  and  then 


«_ 


nic,  for  this  old 
)dj  batllc-groiuui 
n  they  fought  for 
Little  but  historic 
iburg  uovv,  how- 
a  few  lishermen's 

irted. 

e  must  make  Mrs. 
it  good  huly  has  a 
;t  of  the  so-called 
c  but  poorly, 
our  vacatioM  joui- 

we  wish  to  make 
luces  complete,  we 
)s  as  far  as  Pictou, 

by  rail,  and  return 
y  of  Halifax, 
reach  Port  Ilawks- 

bed  in  the  steamer 
e  the  next  morning 

fast,  the  passengers 
beefsteak,  and  then 


HOir   TO  EN  joy  THEM. 


'95 


hurry  ashore  as  the  steamer  grazes  the  Pictou 
wharf.  But  here  all  haste  ceases,  for  Pictou,  like 
CYCiy  other  Acadian  village,  always  preserves  its 
unruffled  equanimity,  and  you  might  as  well  try 
to  hasten  the  growth  of  the  forests  primeval  as 
to  hurry  the  Bluenose  inhabitants  of  this  region. 

Before  a  great  while,  however,  we  arc  flying 
over  the  Nova  Scotia  Railway,  which  takes  the 
traveller  from  Pictou  to  Halifax,  through  a  coun- 
try wonderful  for  its  rocks  and  barrenness,  and 
for  little  else,  apparently.  To  be  sure,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Truro  there  are  many  fine 
farms  and  stout  fields  of  grass  and  grain,  but 
throughout  most  of  the  journey  the  eye  rests 
upon  nothing  but  wide  pastures,  whose  only 
crops  are  huge  boulders,  swampy  lowlands  cov- 
ered with  stunted  brushwood,  and  forests  of  pine 
and  spruce,  through  which  numerous  fires  have 
raged,  leaving  the  trees  leafless  and  dry. 

But  the  very  headquarters  and  capital  of  this 
region,  as  far  as  barreimess  goes,  is  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Windsor  Junction,  where  the  Annap- 
olis valley  road  joins  the  Nova  Scotia  Railway, 


l()C> 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Here,  for  miles  and  miles,  scarcely  n  foot  of 
soft  earth  can  be  fouiul.  Stones,  rocks,  boulders, 
leilfjes,  everywhere  meet  tiie  eye.  Every  house 
is  literally  founded  upon  n  rock. 

The  man  vviio  finds  sermons  in  stones  ought 
to  spend  all  his  Sundays  here ;  and  should  he  be 
of  a  religious  turn  of  mind,  and  live  to  be  as 
old  as  Metiuiselah,  he  never  need  hear  the  same 
discourse  repeated. 

Fancy  the  top  of  Mount  Washington  brought 
down  to  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  suppose  the 
rocks,  instead  of  being  hea)X-d  together  in  a  ro- 
mantic sort  of  wjiy,  as  rocks  always  should  be, 
spread  out  very  thickly  over  several  square  miles 
of  territory,  and  you  have  a  faint  idea  of  the 
appearance  of  Windsor  Junction  and  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

There  is  an  ancient  tradition  in  this  region 
accounting  for  thio  stony  ground,  which  runs 
sonietiiing  as  follows:  — 

When  Pyrrha  and  Deucalion  passed  this  way, 
they  engaged  in  their  customary  occupation  of 
throwing  boulders   over    their   heads.     But   the 


y. 

arccly  n  foot  of 
rockn,  boulders, 
B.     Every  Ijoubc 

in  stones  ou'^ht 
nd  should  he  he 
d  live  to  be  as 
;(1  hear  the  same 

hington  brought 
and  suppose  the 
together  in  a  ro- 
ways  should  be, 
eral  square  miles 
faint  idea  of  the 
ion   and   the  sur- 

)n   in  this   region 
lund,  which    runs 

1  passed  this  way, 

nry  occupation  of 

heads.     But  the 


/lOiy  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


197 


rocks,  partaking  of  the  universnl  sluggisli  and 
tardy  habits  of  tlio  country,  thought  there 
was  no  hurry  about  turning  into  flesh  find 
blood,  and  so  waited  until  tiie  second  father  and 
mother  of  mankind  had  got  out  of  sight,  when  it 
was  no  longer  possible  for  them  to  take  the 
hupinn  shape  divine  ;  and  ever  since  they  have 
remained  weighty  monuments  to  the  evils  of  pro- 
crastination. 

By  taking  the  Annapolis  Railway,  a  few  miles 
of  travel  will  bring  us  right  to  the  home  of 
Evangeline.     For  here,  — 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  thu  shores  of  the  Basin  of 
Minas, 

Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand-Pre 

Lay  in  the  friiitfiil  valley.  Vast  meadows  stretched  to 
the  eastward. 

Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  with- 
out number; 

There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian 

village. 
Stror.g'y  built  were  the  houses,  with  .raini.3  of  oak  and 

of  chestnut, 

Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign 

of  the  Henries. 


iqS 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


Tliatclicd  were   the  roofs,  with  dormer  windows;  and 

gables,  projecting 
Over  the  basement   below,  protected  and  shaded  the 

doorways." 

But  though  the  Basin  of  Minas  is  just  as  fruit- 
ful as  ever,  not  quite  so  secluded  and  still  is  the 
Acadian  village  as  when  Benedict  Bellefontaine 
dwelt  on  his  goodly  acres.  For  modern  life  and 
bustle  have  even  reached  the  Basin  of  Minas ;  the 
iron  horse  snorts  under  the  very  dormer  win- 
dows and  gables  projecting,  and  the  conductor 
sticks  his  head  into  the  car,  and  cries  out, 
"  Grand  Free,"  in  the  broadest  of  Saxon  ac- 
cents. Still  in  company  with  our  pocket  Long- 
fellows,  we  can  spend  many  enjoyable  hours 
in  this  Annapolis  valley. 

After  leaving  Windsor  Junction,  the  Nova 
Scotia  road  runs  on  the  ram's  horn  principle 
for  thirteen  miles,  when  it  finds  its  terminus  in 
the  station  at  Halifax. 

But  we  are  still  two  miles  and  a  half  from 
Hie  business  portion  of  the  city,  and  must  lake 
one  of    the    little    horse    cars    which    are    fur- 


J 


er  windows;  and 
i  and  shaded  the 

s  is  just  as  fruit- 
aiid  still  is  the 
ct   B(?llefontaine 
modern  life  and 
in  of  Minus ;  the 
;iy  dormer  win- 
d  the  conductor 
and    cries    out, 
t   of    Saxon    ac- 
ur  pocket  Long- 
enjoyable   hours 

ction,  the  Nova 
5  horn  principle 
,s  its  terminus  in 

and  a  half  from 

f,  and  must  lake 

which    are    fur- 


//OIV  TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


199 


nished  with  only  one  door,  and  tliat  one  in  front, 
and  ride  to  the  "  International,"  or  "  Halifax,"  or 
•>  Acadian,"  as  fortune  may  direct. 

The  fickle  goddess  once  took  us  to  the  first- 
mentioned  iiouse;  and  if  we  remember  aright, 
we  founil  no  occasion  to  wish  for  a  change, 
though  we  have  no  doubt  tiiat  either  of  the 
others  is  equally  good. 

Halifax  impresses  the  stranger  much  more 
favorably  than  any  other  city  in  this  part  of  Her 
Majesty's  dominions,  Mr.  Warner  to  the  contrary, 
notwithstanding.  It  has  neither  the  unfinished, 
ui. substantial  appearance  of  St,  John,  nor  the 
straggling  look  of  most  of  the  smaller  towns  of 
the  province.  To  be  sure,  a  frish  coat  of  paint, 
of  some  other  color  than  dirty  brown,  would 
greatly  improve  many  of  the  houses  even  of 
Ihdifax;  but  for  the  most  part,  the  principal 
streets  are  lined  with  substantial  blocks  of  brick 
or  brown  stone. 

From  the  Citadel  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
beautiful  site  of  the  city,  its  many  church-spires 
and  tine  school-houses,  its  spacious  harbor  white 


200 


OUR   VACATIONS. 


witli  the  sails  of  many  nations,  and  the  broad 
Atlantic,  with  its  waves  and  breakers  rolling 
beyond. 

The  city  is  remarkably  well  protected,  for, 
besides  the  bristling  Citadel,  there  is  Fort  George 
in  the  harbor,  flanked  on  either  side  by  Fort  Clar- 
ence and  the  Eastern  Battery,  ready  to  belch  out 
fire  and    lead    from  a  hundred    mouths. 

If  possible,  we  must  be  in  Halifax  during  one 
of  the  market  days.  These  come  every  Wednes- 
day and  Saturday,  and  then  the  market  streets 
of  the  city  present  a  very  striking  appearance. 
Froni  early  morn  the  little  country  carts  begin  to 
pour  into  the  city,  loaded  with  a  very  small 
portion  of  everything  which  the  eye  of  maa 
ever  rested  upon. 

The  owners  of  these  treasures  arrange  their 
teams  near  the  market,  until  every  street  and 
alley  within  a  radius  of  half  a  mile  is  lined  with 
them.  Here  is  a  little  go-cart  with  a  small 
bunch  of  tansy,  a  few  strips  of  slippery  elm,  and 
a  half  dozen  quarts  of  diminutive  green  cran- 
berries, for  its  freight ;  there  stands  another  load- 


s. 

,  and  the  broad 
breakers    rolling 

,  protected,  for, 
e  is  Fort  George 
ide  by  Fort  Clar- 
ady  to  belch  out 
mouths. 

lifax  during  one 
e  every  Wednes- 
e  market  streets 
ing  appearance, 
try  carts  begin  to 
[h  a  very  small 
he   eye   of    ma  a 

;s  arrange  their 
every  street  and 
lile  is  lined  with 
t  with  a  small 
lippery  elm,  and 
tive  green  cran- 
nds  another  load- 


//OIV   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


20 1 


ed  with  a  few  clusters  of  bunchbcrries,  as  many 
stalks  of  rhubarb,  and    a   little  watercress. 

In  this  corner,  a  family  of  Micmac  Indians  are 
fashioning  rainbow-colored  baskets,  and  at  the 
same  time  nursing  several  bronze-faced  little 
pappooscs,  which  are  curiously  craflled  between 
two  flat  pieces  of  board.  On  that  side,  a  num- 
ber of  shin)-faced  colored  sisters  are  disjjensing 
pop  beer,  greasy  dougiinuts,  and  gingerbread 
men  to  numerous  cannibal  little  boys  and  girls 
who  have  come  in  with  their  parents  from  the 
country.  Here  an  auctioneer  is  cracking  his 
voice  in  the  vain  eflbrt  to  sell  some  chairs  and 
tables  that  have  outlived  their  usefidncss,  while 
his  stentorian  tones  are  almost  drowned  by  the 
quacking  of  ducks  and  the  squawking  of  chickens, 
which  are  tied  by  their  legs  and  thrown  together 
in  a  heap  on  ono  side,  to  await  the  coming  of  a 
purchaser. 

White  men,  black  men,  red  men,  Scotchmen, 
Frenchmen,  Yankees,  and  Bluenoses  ;  jabbering 
English,  Gaelic,  Micmac,  and  darky  lingo,  ban- 
tering and  haggling  in  a  way  that  is  known  only 
in  Halifax  on  a  market  day. 


Dalhoiisie  College  is  one  of  the  institutions  of 
Halifax.  The  exterior  of  the  single  college  build- 
ing, to  be  sure,  does  not  speak  very  well  for  the 
higher  educational  advantages  of  Nova  Scotia; 
but  it  may  be  presumed  that  the  faculty  and  cur- 
riculum do  not  at  all  correspond  to  the  building. 
In  one  of  the  chairs  of  the  college  — we  tiiink 
of  moral  philosophy  —  sits  Professor  De  Mille,  of 
novelistic  fame. 

It  seems  almost  ridiculous  to  think  of  the 
author  of  the  rollicking  "  Dodge  Club,"  the  jolly 
"  Lady  of  the  Ice,"  and  the  mysterious  "  Cryp- 
togram "  drilling  Butler  and  metaphysics  mto  a 
parcel  of  college  boys;  nevertheless  it  is  said 
mat  this  many-sided  professor  excels  in  morals 
as  well   as  in  tragic  love-scenes. 

Dartmouth  is  the  principal  suburb  of  Halifax, 
where  a  large  sk:.te  factory  and  an  immense 
ropewalk  are  situated.  But  the  place  is  of  little 
interest,  and  will  hardly  repay  a  visit. 

To  complete  the  circle  of  our  provincial  tour 
we  must  take  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  Boston, 
Halifax   and   Prince  Edward  Island   Steamship 


HOW   TO  ENJOY  THEM. 


203 


institutions  of 
e  college  biiild- 
;ry  well  for  the 

Nova  Scotia ; 
acuity  and  cur- 
to  tiie  building, 
ege  —  we  tliink 
ior  De  Mille,  of 

)  think  of  the 
Club,"  the  jolly 
iterious  "  Cryp- 
tapliysics  nito  a 
iclcss  it  is  said 
xcels  in  morals 

lurb  of  Halifax, 
id  an  immense 
place  is  of  little 
visit. 

provincial  tour 
rs  of  the  Boston, 
iland   Steamship 


Line,  or,   if  we   choose,   the   Fj.lmouth,  wiiich 
will    land  us  at  Portland. 

Or,  if  the  traveller  wishes  to  see  one  of  tlie 
most  interesting  sections  of  Nova  Scotia,  he  can 
return  by  way  of  the  Windsor  and  Annapolis 
Railway  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy  steamer,  return- 
ing thence  to  the  United  States  the  way  he  came. 
For  a  part  of  the  distance  to  the  junction,  this  is 
retracing  our  steps  ;  but  having  reached  the  Basin 
of  Minas,  the  road  runs  along  near  the  southern 
shore  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Tiie  broacF  marshes 
along  the  way  are  protected  by  dikes,  built  by 
the  old  Acadian  French  settlers.  The  view  on 
the  rigiit  reaches  to  the  bay  and  the  hills  of 
Parrsboro',  on  the  opposite  shore.  The  bold 
promontory  of  Cape  Biomidon  is  a  prominent 
object  in  the  landscape.  We  pass  Hantsport,  a 
busy  ship-building  village;  Wolfvilla,  where  is 
Acadia  College ;  and  Kentsville,  where  the  rail- 
way offices  are  locatec,  and  reach  Annapolis, 
the  terminus.  This  is  the  ancient  Port  Royal, 
the  first  capital  of  the  province,  and  one  of  the 
oldest   places   on   the   continent.     The   remains 


of  old  fortifications  arc  still  standing,  and  from 
the  summit  can  be  had  fine  views  of  the  livcr 
and  the  snnoundiiig  country. 

On  being  transferred  to  the  steamer  Empress, 
the  traveller  passes  down  the  deep  Annapolis 
basin,  with  a  range  of  liigh  hills  on  either  side, 
to  Digby,  where  a  landing  is  made.  This  quiet, 
shady  town  has  n  pleasant  outlook  from  the 
hill-side.  The  ope'-.ing  from  the  basin  is  between 
higli  blull's,  and  through  this  the  steamer  passes 
into  the  13ay  of  Fundy,  and  after  a  run  of  three 
or  four  hours  makes  a  landing  at  the  wharf  in 
St.  John. 

In  this  schedule  we  start  from  Boston  and  come 
back  to  the  Tri-Mountain  Cjty. 


From  Boston  to  St.  John  via  International  Line 

of  steamers, $5'50 

Grand  Central  Hotel  at  St.  John,  two  days,  at 

$1.50  per  (Jay, 3-oo 

From  St.  John  to  Shediac   via   European  and 

Nortl)  American  Railroad,  ....  2.50 
Weldon  House  at  Shediac,  one  day,  at  $1.00  per 

day, 100 

From  Shediac  to  Summerside,  Prince  Edward 

Islnnd  steamers, '-50 


;ling,  and  from 
vs  of  the  liver 

amer  Empress, 
cep  Annapolis 
on  cither  side, 
e.  This  qiiiet, 
tlooii  from  the 
•asin  is  between 
steamer  passes 
•  a  run  of  three 
[it  the  wharf  in 

Joston  and  come 


ional  Line 

•  $5-SO 
?o  dajs,  at 

•  300 
opean  and 

2.50 
it  $1.00  per 

i.oo 
ce  Edward 

1.50 


From  Suinmerside  to  Charlottetown  via  Bag- 
nnll's  stage, 

Hotel  bill  at  Charlottetown,  four  Jays, 

From  Charlottetown  to  Port  Ilawkesbury,  Prince 
Edward  Island  steamers 

From  Port  Ilawkesburv  to  West  Bay,  by  coach,   . 

From  West  Bay  to  Sydney, 

At  Mrs.  Ilerns's,  Sydney,  three  days, . 

Fares  back  to  Pictou,  over  same  route. 

From  Pictou  to  Halifax,  N.  S.,  railroad,     . 

At  International  Hotel,  Halitav,  four  d.iys, 

From  Halifax  to  Boston  via  Booton,  Halifax  and 
Prince  Edward  Island  Steamship  I/ne, 

Estimate  for  incidental  expenses,  including  dis- 
count on  money,  &c.,  &c.,      .         .        .        . 


I 
6 

50 
00 

4 

00 

I 

00 

3 

00 

3 
6 

00 
00 

3 
6 

00 

9 

00 

40 

00 

Total  expense  for  round  trip,  . 


•  $96-25 


For  those  wishing  to  get  a  gl'"nipse  of  the 
maritime  provhicps,  a  refreshing  sea  voyage, 
and  at  the  same  time  not  wishing  to  spend 
as  miicli  tiine  or  money  as  the  trip  we  have 
just  described  requires,  we  can  recommend 
nothing  pleasanter  than  to  take  the  round  trip 
with  one  of  the  steamers  of  the  Boston,  Halifax 
and  Prince  Edward  Island  Steamship  Line. 

The  steamships  of  this  company,  the  Carroll 


and  Alhambra,  arc  safe,  roomy,  and  fast  vessels, 
of  some  fourteen  himdred  tons  burden,  well  fur- 
nished and  well  officered  In  every  particular. 

The  state-rooms  -ue  all  double,  and  supplied 
with  life-preserving  mattresses,  capable  of  out- 
riding any  storm  if  it  should  be  our  bad  luck  to 
take  a  compulsory  voyage  on  one  of  them. 

If  we  decide  to  follow  the  fortunes  of  the  • 
steamers  on  one  of  their  trips,  some  Saturday 
noon  will  find  us  steaming  away  from  Boston 
fro'm  the  end  of  T  Wharf,  and,  wind  and  weather 
permitting,  the  next  Monday  morning  will  find  tis 
safely  anchored  in  the  snug  harbor  of  Halifax. 

Our  steamer  only  remains  here  a  few  hours, 
but  long  enough  to  give  a  very  fair  idea  of 
this  aristocratic  little  metropolis.  Then  we  are 
on  our  way  again,  skirting  the  Nova  Scotia  coast, 
and  getting  our  fill  of  the  glorious  views  which 
the  Straits  of  Canso  aflbrd  by  the  early  daylight 
of  the  next  morning. 

Port  Ilawkesbury,  which  we  reached  before 
from  the  other  end  of  the  strait,  is  excited  by  the 
arrival  of  the  Boston  steamer  early  this  Tuesday 
morning. 


IJ 


11(1  fast  vessels, 
iidcn,  well  fur- 
pavticular. 
B,  and  supplied 
apable  of  out* 
)ur  bad  liick  to 
of  them. 

fortunes  of  the  • 
some  Saturday 
ly  from  Boston 
ind  and  weather 
iiing  will  find  us 
or  of  Halifax, 
re  a  few  hours, 
:ry  fair  idea  of 
.  Tiien  we  are 
ova  Scotia  coast, 
)iis  views  which 
le  early  daylight 

readied   before 

is  excited  by  the 

uly  this  Tuesday 


HOW  TO  ENJOY  THEM.  207 

A  great  event  is  this  arrival,  you  would  think, 
if  you  coulii  sec  the  commotion  among  the 
owners  of  the  nondescript  trains  we  have  before 
alluded  to,  cs  they  rush  forward  to  try  their 
po\»ers  of  pel  suasion  upon  our  unsuspecting 
fellow-pilgrims  wlio  are  bound  for  Sydney  or 
Baddeck. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  come 
in  sight  of  giimy  Pictou,  and  the  next  morning 
we  wake  up  witliin  sight  of  Charlottetown,  the 
terminus  of  our  steamer's  route. 

On  Prince  Edward  Island  we  remain  two  days, 
and  have  plenty  of  time  for  a  fishing  trip  among 
the  trout  brooks,  and  for  a  sight  of  the  life  of  the 
islanders. 

Then,  if  time  or  inclination  forbids  a  longer 
stay  in  the  provinces,  we  can  take  our  steamer 
again  Thursday  night,  and  retrace  our  steps 
as  we  came,  reaching  Boston  the  next  Mon- 
day morning. 

The  expenses  of  such  a  vacation  are  about  as 
follows :  — 


3o8  OUR   VACATIONS. 

Fnre  to  Charlottctown,  including  state-room,        $12.00 
"     from  "  "  "    .         .     12.00 

Mcnis   (,l""i'i>l<'a''t  anil  supper  nt  50  tts.,  dinner 

lit  75  ct».), 15.71; 

ExpentiCM  in  port, io..:5 

Total, $50.00 

Thus  wc  have  a  deliglitfiil  excursion  of  nine 
dnys,  and  a  sea  voyage  of  more  than  half  tlic 
distance  to   Europe. 


s. 

e-room, 

$IJ.OO 

"    . 

.     li.oo 

ts.,  dinner                       j 

. 

•    «5'7S 

• 

.     10.J5 

• 

.  $50.00 

cciirsion 

of  nine 

c  tli;iu 

half  the 

-""S 


rA  CA  riON  A  D  VER  TISEMENTS. 


WHITE  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 


ROUNSEVEW  &  OOLBURN,  Proprietors. 

CARROLL,  X.  JI. 


Board,   $2.BO   per  Day.       Reasonable    Terms 
by  the  Week. 


rcfiT,e7"r"°*"  '"""  ""'T  ^""""^  ""'""'''"  ''"^  "''""ybeen  enlarged  and 
refitted,  and  is  now  ojicn  in  llic  tr-iveliinx  P"lilic. 

Situated  on  tl,e  Amm,.„oo»uc  Host„„,  Concord,  nnd  Montreal  Railroad  Sta- 
tion ,„  ronl  of  house.  Our  rooms  are  comfor.aole,  an.;  fur,^  hed  with  new  bed, 
-nd  .ddinfi.  S,.t.sfac,„mKu,r,,„teed  to  our  Ru.sts.  We  t.ike  pleasure  in  refer- 
ring to  our  former  pair,.,,,.  We  inte.id  to  make  this  liou.e  a  HoM.  for  tho» 
who  visit  the  Moui.t.iins.  °'  """• 

A  Good  Livery  connected  with  the  house. 

We  will  take  our  patron,  to  all  points  of  interest  about  the  Mountain,  on  rei- 
•oname  terms. 

TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 

W,w/.1''   ^''^''"'°  S^^-^'"" At  the  Door. 

WiLLRV    lloiSK .    ,,., 

WaI  MDEK-    HOU    K '..'.'.'..'.'.'.'.   ,t  "' 

Crawfokd  N,)t>  II •   •   ■  ■  ^^ 

Mr.   WASiiiNtiT,  N  Railroad  Statmin  ..........    t  •< 

Ammonoosuc  Falls •  .  .  .    7  ^^ 

Fabvan  House .*.'..'.'''  j/  ■■ 

The  tables  will  be  supplied  with  the  luxuries  of  the  season,  prepared  by  expe- 
rienced cooks,  and  served  ly  attentive  waiters. 

A  share  of  patronage  solicited. 

The  facilities  for  re,-.ching  this  house  are  nuch  improved  by  the  extension  of  the 
Boston,  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad  to  ;he  door.  From  this  house  all  poinM 
are  easy  of  accesiK  being  centrally  located  among  the  Mountains. 


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TUAMta-AXia)  BY   UUUlUtT  ULAUK. 

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IKRICA.  By  a  apecial 
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ublishers  offer  it  confl- 
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ch.n„  of  .„  .crompll.lKd  wr.tor.    ,  ,™  ^m  you  .re  ,0  pUco  ,  1.  reol« 
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JOSHUA  L.  CUAMBEULIN.l-resldentBowUoiaCoIKtfe. 

.^'^TT°,   ""  ""'*'  "Obscrlptlon  book  which,  for  literary,  srtlafio. 
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ners and  cui- toms  of  each  era.  The  author  suggests  that  its  title 
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of  England.  Numerous  plates  illustrate  the  text,  and  present 
vividly  to  tlie  reader  the  actors  and  scenes  of  the  narrative ;  and 
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8  Foil.    8vo. 


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portant Historical  Events.    By  Victqb  Hcoo.    12mo.    Cloth. 

$2.50. 

Chimes  for  Childhood. 

A  Collection  of  Songs  for  Little  Folks,  With  20  Illustrations 
by  BiRKET  Foster,  Millais,  and  others.  Tinted  paper,  208 
pages.    Cloth,  75  cto.  j  half  bound,  60  cU. 


rSLICA  TIONS. 
reel,  Boston. 


no  Priory,"  "  Ellice," 
r ;  one  that  is  lure  to  live. 
DtereBting  Actions  of  tbe 
■ure  to  be  read.  —  iMndon 

Leo.    By  J.  £.  Oals. 


story.  Making  a  com- 
ly  every  branch  of  this 
oth.     $5.00  per  vol. 


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he  Way  of  Aix-la-Cha- 
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Witli  20  Illustrations 
srs.  Tinted  paper,  208 
cts. 


ESTES  AND  LAURIAT'S  PUBLICATIONS. 
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rackanVs  Guide  to  the  Study  of  Insects, 

Being  a  popular  Introduction  to  the  Study  of  Entomology,  and 
a  Treatise  on  Injurious  and  Beneficial  Insecte ;  with  Descrip. 
tions  and  Accounts  of  the  Habits  of  Insects,  their  Transforma- 
tions, Development,  and  Classification.  15  lull-page  Plates, 
and  CTOCuts  in  the  Text,  embracing  12C0  Figures  of  American 
Insects.  Sixth  edition.  1  vol.  8vo.  Price  reduced  to  $6.00. 
This  book  is  now  acknowlcil^'cd  to  be  tht  standard,  and  In  used  in  the 
leading  univeraities  and  inBtiluiloiifi  of  Europe  and  America. 

Half  Hours  with  Insects, 

A  popular  Account  of  their  Habits,  Aiodes  of  Life,  &c.  To  be 
published  in  12  parts,  fully  illustrated.  Each  part  25  cents. 
Py  A.  S.  Packard,  Jr.,  of  the  Peabody  Aciideray  of  Science. 
The  subjects  treated  are— Insects  of  tho  Garden,  of  the 
Plant  House,  of  our  Ponds  and  Brooks ;  Population  of  an 
Apple  Tree;  Insects  of  the  Forest,  as  Musicians  and  Mimics; 
as  Architects ;  Insects  in  Societies;  The  Reasoning  Poirers 
of  Insects. 

Say's  Entomology, 

A  Description  of  the  Insects  of  North  America.  By  Thomas 
Say.  With  64  full-page  steel-plate  Illustrations,  engraved 
and  colored  from  nature.  Edited  by  J.  L.  Le  Coste.  With 
a  Memoir  by  Geo.  Ord.  Two  vols.  8vo.  Cloth,  $16.00; 
half  calf,  $20  00. 

This  standard  work  is  now  out  of  print,  the  plates  having  been  de- 
stroyed. We  offer  the  balance  of  the  edition  at  the  above  prices.  It 
will  aoon  become  scarce,  and  command  a  very  much  higher  price. 

Our  Common  Insects. 

A  popular  Account  of  the  more  common  Insects  of  our  Coun- 
try, embracing  chapters  on  Bees  and  their  Parasites,  Moths, 
Flies,  Mosquitos,  Beetles,  &c. ;  while  a  Calendar  will  give  a 
general  Account  of  the  n^ore  common  Injurious  and  Beneficial 
Insects,  and  their  Time  of  Appearance,  Habits,  &c.  200 pages. 
Profusely  Illustrated.    Price  $2.50. 


I 


ARRANGEMENT    FOR    1874. 


INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 


LiNB  OF  Stbamkrs  between 
BOSTON, 

PORTLAND, 

EASTPORT,  and 

ST.   JOHN,   N.  B., 

With  Connections  to 

CALAIS,  ME,,  HALIFAX,  N.  S.,  CHAEOTTETOWN,  P.  E.  L,  &C. 


The  favorie,  sujierior,  sea-going  steamers  of  this  line. 

NEW  YORK  NEW  BEUNSWICK, 

CITY  OP  POETLAND, 

Leave  end  of  Commercial  Whf..   Boston,  at  8  A.  M.,  and  Railroad  Whf., 
Portland,  at  6  P.  M.,  for  Eastport  and  St.  John,  as  follows: 

In  April,  May,  .in<I  to  June  15,  every  Moiul.ty  ,in<l  Thursday. 

Frnin  June  15  m\A  thiou:h  July,  August,  and  September,  every 

Mimtl.u',  We(lnes<I,iy,  .incl  Friilay. 

In  October,  November,  .ind  December,  every  Mond.iy  and  Thursday. 

Passengers  Iiy  the  mornint;  and  noon  tr.tins  of  E.istern  ar.d  Boston  and  Maine 
R.iilroads  from  Hjston.  can  take  ihe  steamer  at  Portlaml  at  6  P.  M. 

P.issenRers  forw.Trdct!  l)y  cninvctini;  steamers  and  railroad  lines  to  Calais  and 
Iloi.itoti,  Me.  :  St  An<!n-ws.  WcKlstoek.  Fredericton,  and  Shediac  N.  B.  : 
Amherst,  Truro.  New  G  a>Rovv,  Pictou,  DiRby,  Annapolis.  Keniville,  Windsor, 
Liveri>o*'l,  and  H.ilifax,  N.  S.  :  Suinmerside  and  CharIottei(»wn,  P.  E.  I. 

Rates  of  fare  from  Bi>.slon  to  Kastport.  >5.oo;  Calais,  ts  'o;  St.  John,  fs-Sp; 
Dipliy,  >,-.co;  Annapolis,  JI7  50 :  Kentvi.le,  $8.50;  H.alifax,  via  Annapolis 
Wnidsor,  &c.,  ISq.so:  Halif.ix.  all  rail,  from  St.  John,  $11.00:  Shediac,  $8.a5  ; 
Summerside,  $9.50;  Ch.irlottetown,  $10,50. 

K^  Thrmigh  Tickets  and  State  Rooms  securtd al  the  Agents'  Offices,  orof 
CUrks  on  board. 


AGENTS; 

ClIISHOLM,   St. 


A.  R. 

John. 


STunns,  Portland ;    Georoe   Haves,  Eastport ;   H.  W 

W.    H.   KILBY, 

End  of  Commercial  Wharf,  BOSTON, 


:ments. 


1874. 


IIP  COMPAM. 


and 
OHN,  N.  B., 

[ETOWN,  P.  E.  l„  &C. 

ers  of  tills  line, 

BRUNSWICK, 
NL, 

\.  M.,  »nd  Railroid  Whf., 
I.  John.  »%  follows: 

il,\y  and  Tliursday. 

t,  and  September,  every 

very  Monday  and  Thursday, 
nstcrn  and  Boston  and  Maine 
llnml  at  6  V.  M. 
\  railroad  lines  to  Calais  and 
riclon.  and  Shediac  N.  B.  ; 
inapolis,  Kentville,  Windsor, 
larlottelown,  P.  E.  I. 
lais,  Jis.to;  St.  John,  $5.50; 
50 ;  Halifax,  via  Annapolis, 
,hn,  »ii.oo:   Shediac  *8.»5  : 

{at  iht  Agents'  Offices,  or  of 


a   Have,"!,  Eastport ;   H.  W 

.    H.   KILBY, 

nmerclal  Wharf,  BOSTON, 


VA  CA  TION  A  OVER  TtSEMENTS. 


THE    OMETV 

mwm  m  boston  tin  iin[ 

NOW  RUN 

TWO  FAST  EXPRESS  TRAIXS,  of  now  and  clogant  Cars, 
proviik'ij  with  all  the  Modern  Improvements, 

FROM 

BOSTON  to  MONTREAL, 

Without  Change. 

No  Route  from  Boston  presents  such  magnificent  scenery.      PassenRcvs  by 
this  line  trarel  through  the 

PARADISE  OF  THIS  CONTINENT. 

A  most  cliarmins  P.inorama  of  River,  Mountain,  and  Lake  Scenery,  in'.iitding 
llu'  grand  views  of  L^e  WinnepsuulM,  W]llt«  VoiuUis  Sugt,  an.l  ChTTlUI 
Lake,  will  entertain  the  traveller  for  a  distance  of  250  miles. 


ecw  WE  OFIF.R  TO  THK  PUBLKJ  A  LIST  OF  TOURIST  AND 

EXCURSaON  TICKETS   never  before  shown. 


LEVE  &  CLARK,  Ticket  Agents, 

94  Washington  Street,  Boston. 

K.  P.  L07ZEINO,  JB.,  0«n'I  Tleltet  Ag't,  j  GUSTAVB  LEVE,  Pwj-r  Ag't  for  K.  E., 
LYNDONVILLE.  VT.  j  94  Wasiiinoton  Street. 


VA  CA  TION'  AD  VERTISEMENTS. 


"Weekly    Line 


FOR 


HAUFAX,  PORT  HAWKESBUR7, 
.  PICTOU,  juid 
CHARLOTTETOWN,  P.  E.  I. 

Carrying  the  IT.  8.  Mail. 


THE  STEAMSHIPS 
Will  leave  for  the  above  ports  alternately 

Every  Sftturday,  at  12  M. 

No  Frcislit  received  after  to  A.  M.  on  d.iy  of  sailing. 

Shippers  must  send  with  Recei)  ts  the  value  of  Goods  for  Master's  Manifest. 

For  Freight  or  Passage  apply  to 

WH.  H.  EIN3,  18  T.  Wharf, 
or    E.  H.  ADAMS,  82  Washinston  Street. 

F.   NICKERSOK,  A.  CO.,  Asenu. 


fENTS. 


tie 


KESBURY, 


P.  E.  I. 


II. 


'V 


rnately 

12  M. 


iliiig. 

ods  for  Master's  Manifest. 


,8  T.  Wharf, 

12  Washiaston  Street. 


P'A  CA  TION  A  D  VER  TISEMENTS. 


THE 


CENTRAL  VERMONT  R.  R.  LINE 

IS  THE 

Shortest^  Quickest^  and  Best 


ROUTE  BETWEEN 


New    England    and    Canada. 


EqUIPPBD  WITH 


iin  §im, 


AND   ALL   TUB 


MODERN    IMPROVEMENTS. 


^^Send  for  the  "SUMMEE  EXOUESIONIST "  (a  new 
S@^  edition  each  year)  before  you  select  your  Vacation 
5Sa^  Trip  or  Summer  Jaunt.  ^^^ 

It  contjiins  sevem!  thmis.incl  (.■xcursions,  including  M  the  popular  resorts,  and 
arranged  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  public  as  regards  expense  and  time. 


Tickets  and  full  information  obtained  at 


No.  65  Washington  Street,  Boston, 

T.  EDWARD  BOND,  Ticket  Ag't. 


L.  UILLIS,  aea'l  Sipt.  Traffle.  '8.  W.  CUIQIUTOS,  Fau'r  Aga&t. 

ST.  ALBANS,  VT. 


VACATION  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Sea-Shore  Route 


NORTH  CONWAY  anflt^HITEfflOnNTAIHS, 


Oulf/  AU-Iiail  and  Stage  Route 


RANGLEYS,     MOOSEHEAD    LAKE,     and 
MOUNT    DESERT. 

Also,  the  All-Rail  Route  lo  the  Marhime  Pruvincea  is  via  the 

EISTERN  &  At  iliM  fflTRlL  R.  R.  111. 

Connections   are   ai^iii   made   nt   Portland  with  the  Railroad  and   Steamboat 
Lines  to  all  (urts  of  Canada,  Coast  of  Maine,  and  Maritime  Provinces. 


For  further  information,  Time  Taoles,  also  to  secure  your  Tickets,  Berths  and 
Chairs  in  the  I'ullman  Cars,  apply  at  the 

OENESAL  FASSENQEB  OFFICE: 


CHAS.    F.   HATCH, 

Gen' I  Manager. 


CEO.    F.   FIELD, 

Gan'l  PaM'r  Ag't. 


, 


ENTS. 


ute 


fflODHTAIES, 


Route 


LAKE,     and 


ovinces  i»  via  the 

L  R.  R.  WL 

Railri^d  and   Steamboat 
itime  Provinces. 


;  your  Tickets,  Berths  and 

TICS : 

CEO.    F.  FIELD, 

Gcn'l  PiM'r  Ag'1. 


VACATION  ADVERTISEMENTS. 


R.    M.    TAI.&, 

SAIL-MAKER, 


AND  MANtlFACTURKa  OP 


ITALIAN  AWNINGS,  TENTS, 


FLAGS,  WAGON  COVERINGS, 


SACKINaS  and  STORE  AWNINGS, 


or  EVERY  DESCRIPTION, 


Cor.  Commercial  and  South  Market  Si/eets, 


{ENTRAA'CE  H  SOUTH  MARKET  ST.) 


BOSTON", 


R.  M.  Y.  keeps  constantly  oo  band  a  good  assnrtoient  of  Awning  Stripes,  of 
varioun  patterns,  and  all  orders  will  be  promptly  attended  to.  Also,  Tenia  of  all 
tizei,  and  Flags  of  all  Nations)  to  be  let  on  reaionable  terms. 


VA  CA  TION  A  D  VER  TISEMENTS. 


BOSTON  &  MM  aDiGRMDTRHRJ. 


Boston  and  Montreal. 


Pa!iaenRen  from  Doston  ■inil  Ihc  Soulh  and  \Vc«t  will  finit  that  this  neiv 
route,  ns  LOW  oiu-n,  combines  comfort  anil  ronveulence  with  che»p- 
n«aa  and  dcapateh. 

ON   ALL  THROUGH   TRAINS. 

«r  THROUGH  TICKETS  to  MONTREAL,  and  all  Inlarmadiata  Polnto, 
for  tal«  at  Stations  on  DOSTON  &  MAINE  R,  R. 
49-  Baggage  Chackad  Through  FREE  from    REVENUE   INSPECTION. 


The  BOSTON  &  MAINE  RAILROAD  also  connects  at  Portland  with  th« 
AfiiiHe  Crnlral  RiiHroaii  fax  Hath,  IIallowei.l,  Augusta,  Liiwi,ton,  Wa- 
TBKMLLK.  Banook,  liASTPoRT,  .inil  S  r.  JuiiN ;  with  tile  Neto  Ent;land  and 
Nova  Scotia  Steamshifi  Co.  for  Halifax;  and  wilh  Ihc  Portland  and  Oe- 
tUHsbh.g  Railroad  for  IVorth  Coiiwny  and  the  White  Monutalna. 

The  road  to  Alios  Bay,  Wolfboro',  and  Centre  HabB'R,  and  the 
Steamer  on  Lake  Wiiini.  isLo;ec,  arc  owned  by  the  llosioii  and  Maine  Railroad, 
and  Trains  connrct  at  Dover  fitr  thtse  ^ointt  with  all  trains  on  the  main  line. 
The  only  direct  route  to  Wklls.  Old  Orchard,  and  Scakboko'  Bb\ciies, 
points  which  are  UNSURPASSED  for  good  hotels,  ieauli/ul  drives,  aniiyine 
sea  iathing. 


STA  TION  r.V  BOSTOff: 

HATI^AIIEET  SO.,  at  the  Head  of  Washington  St 

JAS.  T.   FURBER,  Gen'i  Sup't. 


MENTS. 


~^ 


TRHR.R. 


ntreal. 


t  will  find  thiit  tlii»  new 
iveulcnce  with  cheap- 


MNS. 

d  (11  lnierm«di«<e  Polnto, 

I. 

REVENUE  INSPECTION. 


;oniiect»  at  Portland  with  tht 
Augusta,  Lbwi^ton,  Wa- 
(itli  the  AVw  Eiitr/atiit  and 
with  the  Portland  and  Og- 
he  White  Mountain*. 

'ENTRE  IlADBiR,  and  the 
ISdSioii  and  Maine  Railroad, 
nil  Irai'is  on  Iht  main  Hne. 
and  SCARBOKO'  Bk\ches, 
■/»,  biautiftil  drives,  mAJine 


of  Waslungton  St. 

u'l  Kup't. 


NEW  AND  IMPORTANT  BOOKS 


LATELY   PlIBl.iailtD    BY 


ESTES  &  LAURIAT, 


|ublis^ers,  |oohsellers,  anl>  |mporftrs, 


148  WASHINGTON   STREET, 


VACATION  A  n  VER  T I  SEMEN  TS. 


WM.    READ    &    SOIffS^ 

13  Foneuil  Hall  Square,  Boston, 


1)K  M.RRS    IN 


Both  Brooch  and  Muzzlo-Loading, 

Of  iill    ihu    bill    nnkiTN     "Siott."    "Wkstikv    Kiciiards"     "Moore," 
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Ar.KNTS    FOR 

"W.    &    C.    SCOTT    &    SON'S" 
Cf'h'hrated  lireech  Loadet's. 

Scott's  Ili.ustkatrd  Work  on  I1riiecii-Loadk«s,  35  cents,  by  mail. 

AUSO 

FIUE  TROUT  AND  SALMON  RODS, 

FLIES,   REELS,   LINES, 

And  everylhinK  in  Fishing-Tackle  Outfits. 
TOURISTS'   KNAPSACKS,  &c.,  &c. 
IlAi.i.ARn's  Mavnard's,  Wesson'n  Stevens',  and  Winchester's 

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JQ^Send  for  Circulars. 





VTS. 


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